complete novice needs help

Hi all.

I am a complete novice having only just started in this field as a hobby. I have read with interest a lot of the posts in this forum regarding starting out, read, study, more books, more study, but you know what its like you get that “I want one syndrome†Well that’s what happened to me anyway just so I could say “I got one†Any way 4 different pieces later I have told the wife I would behave now, till I’ve saved enough pennies for something good.

My first purchase was a Wakizashi from Japan (off e bay) I can hear the groans! But you have to start some where don’t you?

Any way I would much appreciate your help with a couple of questions.

I was told that the Mei on this Wakizashi read Kane Yoshi? I cannot find the first caricature used on the blade from any of the books I have at the moment, (looking for more).

The second question is about cleaning a blade, I have also purchased a rather nice Tanto but it has some dried oil on it, it was suggested that the use of 100% alcohol was the stuff to use, unfortunately here in the UK you need a licence to purchase this and I don’t have one, so a colleague of mine suggested I use ordinary meths and a linen cloth, I then talked to another person who said if you cant get hold of the alcohol then a good substitute would be a substance called Proponol, what do you experts use?

Please any help you could provide would be appreciated.

Welcome to the NMB

see D5 for your Kane

one of the better begginer books is the Samurai Sword a Handbook

by John Yumoto

very eazy to find with lots of common Kanji in the back.

Opps is a good cleaner and will not discolor the blade dont know if they have it in the UK or not.

Just a follow up oin Stevens advise, Oops is a trade name for Xylene solvent used by homeowners here is the states to remove dried acrylic paints from woodwork. Xylene is very volatile and should be used outdoors, it also leaves an extremely clean surface so you should be ready to apply whatever oil you plan to use right away. You can probably tell I am in the home improvement business and not nihonto sales but this is just my two cents worth Scott

Just to add for sources. Xylene can be obtained in pure form at most chemical supply houses. Used to dissolve resin on slides for microphotography. Most chemists will have it. John

I use the 99% isopropyl you get at the druggists. Works just fine and that 1% H20 has not been a problem in any way.

Stephen, where did you get those kanji sheets? They're great! And I agree, Yumoto's book is quite handy for kanji as well.

cheers,

/steve

Hi Splidge

From my experience with working for ICI, proponal, which is basically alcohol anyway, I think (could be wrong as my chemical days are long gone) should not do any harm to an iron blade directly and should remove light oils quite easily. I would imagine that newly bought propanol fresh from the bottle used sparingly would be best. It evaporates quite quickly (use it with good ventalation ie outside) and if you use it do make sure you really give the blade a good wipe to remove all residue as you never know especially with old blades and what they could have been coated with previously. A previous low grade oil with dust and other nasties could have a negative effect if left to its own devices with a solvent. Also propanol in a scabbard could have a negative effect too with woods, glues, dust, laquer etc etc...

the tables are from Japanese Sword Blades by Alfred Dobree

Thanks Steve for the welcome much appreciated.

The book "The Samurai Sword a Handbook" is the first book I bought, thanks for the tables Steve realy helpful.

Thanks all for the suggestions in which chemicals are available only now Im confused which is probably the best to use. I have been told that I could also use a mixture of charcoal and meths? but would'nt that create a mild abrasive Going back to the chemical way what about application, cotton wool bud or small artists brush? I was told not to use the cottonwool bud?

Frank,

Nothing too complicated about it. Just use a clean soft linen cloth, or even better the usual unscented tissue paper, and wipe the blade a few times after putting the alchohol or other cleaner on it. Once you are done, then go through the standard cleaning method of uchiko lightly followed by choji oil application, then wipe off, and you should be done.

You can skip the uchiko, some people use it, some don't.

You should be able to use any of the mentioned degreasers as long as you clean it off afterwards and do the oil application. I would not go near anything to do with charcoal and meths.

Btw...you say that pure alchohol needs a licence in the UK? I expect pharmacies will have something close to it that will work.

Brian

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healthguidelines/xylene/recognition.html

in regards to xylene, its not responsible to recommend!

Franco,

Just about every chemical has health warnings like this. Used properly, there is no more risk than many household items.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healthguidelin ... ition.html

Don't smoke while cleaning your swords, and keep the area well ventilated

Brian

Speaking as a Chemical Engineer with 44 years experience, just about any alcohol (chemical name will end in "ol," i.e, ethanol, isopropanol, etc.) will clean most greases & oils. You don't need "pure" or "100%" anything. These liquids do contain water, because ALL alcohols will pick up water from the air faster than you would believe. So, yes, as soon as you've cleaned your nagasa you should immediately add a thorough coat of oil (choji works fine).

If you have to go to more powerful solvents for some reason (the only situation I can think of would be a coating of shellac from badly-dried oils), you can certainly use xylene. The caveat is that xylene is a possible carcinogen, explosive around sparks & open flames, & not a good thing to breathe or get on your skin. So be smart & do your sword cleaning outdoors, carefully using a small cloth that you can throw away, & wearing gloves that will probably get partially dissolved.

Don't get paranoid around chemical solvents, just think about what you're doing. If you get xylene on you, just go wash it off - it's not going to eat your skin. And of course don't splash any of these solvents in your eyes, drink them, or anything else that common sense tells you is bad.

Franco,

Just about every chemical has health warnings like this. Used properly, there is no more risk than many household items.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healthguidelin ... ition.html

Don't smoke while cleaning your swords, and keep the area well ventilated

 

Brian

Brian, the chemical lobbies have written regulations in such a way that allows harsh and dangerous toxic chemicals to be sold and used by joe average citizen at home. Which doesn't make it OK.

When you say used properly, a professional would be required to use xylene under a full hood in a laboratory.

If you have to go to more powerful solvents for some reason (the only situation I can think of would be a coating of shellac from badly-dried oils), you can certainly use xylene. The caveat is that xylene is a possible carcinogen, explosive around sparks & open flames, & not a good thing to breathe or get on your skin. So be smart & do your sword cleaning outdoors, carefully using a small cloth that you can throw away, & wearing gloves that will probably get partially dissolved.

Ha, throw a xylene cloth away and you would be in violation of hazardous waste laws.

The point is play it safe and find a better alternative.

Sorry, just tired of the nonsense.

Well thanks for such a healthy debate, I am no longer confused in which cleaning agents to use, I am well aware of the out come of these chemicals if used unwisely as I have spent the last 28 years in the emergency services and have access to most of the haz chem info anyway, seems as though I will go the alcohol way :D I am sure Ive got some good Bourbon or Potcheene in the house, many thanks for your advise though.