"Bug poo" expert needed

[Guest Simon Rowson]

Hi all,

 

When I retrieved my swords back from the NBTHK shinsa last week, I discovered that my brand new waki shira-saya had developed a slight split along the tsuka seam (the NBTHK have heaters in their storage area I was told and so this sometimes happens).

 

As advised in the "All Japan Swordsmith Association" book, I dabbed the seam with a cloth dipped in hot water and, hey presto..... the rice glue softened and reset perfectly (this also works well for minor bruises and dents on a shira-saya by the way).

 

The only annoying side effect was that, where the hot water had touched, the honoki wood had taken on a rough, matt appearance in contrast to the smooth waxed finish of the rest of the shira-saya.

 

Knowing that the waxed look was the result of the saya maker's final polishing with ibota powder (the waxy secretion used by cicada's when building their nests) I bought a packet from Namikawa Heibei and, after removing the insect shells, rubbed it on gently with a dry cloth.

 

Whilst much improved, the tsuka is still far less glossy than the saya and so I wondered if there were any "bug poo" experts out there who could guide me in the finer points of ibota application?

 

All suggestions welcome,

 

Simon

[Guido]

Simon, I'm not an expert on this, but shouldn't you have used Tokusa (http://www.namikawa-ltd.co.jp/cgi-bin/item_e.cgi?cate=14&no=36) before applying Ibota?

[Guest Simon Rowson]

Hi Guido,

 

I actually bought some tokusa at the same time but was unsure how to use it (before, with or after the ibota?).

 

I certainly didn't want to do anything irreversible and, even with my meagre knowledge, I guessed that the the tokusa would act as a mild sanding agent. Because the wood had only seemed to lose it's waxy appearance after my touching it with hot water, I was loathe to do anything that would actually grind away the surface, however lightly.

 

Maybe I should do what you suggest and prepare the wood with the tokusa prior to applying the ibota but, as a complete amateur at this, I don't even know whether you use the tokusa wet, dry, flat or round!

 

Help anybody! :?

 

Simon

[Guest Simon Rowson]

Stop press!

 

I think I've sussed it.

 

Using a knackered old shira-saya I had laying around, I experimented with the tokusa and, if you rub it on the wood dry and round (exactly as it comes out of the bag from Namikawa Heibei), then you get a perfect finish prior to applying the ibota.

 

I'm now so pleased with my amateur results at honoki waxing that I'm going to buy some polishing stones from NH and have a go on all my blades...........ONLY KIDDING!!

 

Simon