WW2 sword

[MacDeuce]

Hello, my name is Mac. I have posted some pictures of a sword my grandfather brought back from WW2. If you need more, I can post again. I would like some help in identifying the sword, markings, and history of this type of weapon. I would be happy if you could just tell me a good referance site, and a translationg of the tang. Bonus points if you know any sword buffs in Austin Tx

 

Much thanks

Mac

[george trotter]

The signature (needs to be read with blade held tip pointing up) says "I DO KANE HIRO SAKU" meaning Ido Kanehiro made (this). The small stamp above his name is the seki stamp, showing this is made in one of the WWII Seki city sword association group workshops...it is probably a showato (non-traditional manufacture). There are 4 swordsmiths named IDO listed here but none are named Kanehiro...but this name Kanehiro is listed in Hawley 1981 as Mino 1940 which is the right date and province for this Kanehiro.

Nice that you have a family heirloom. Needs a light oil wipe on the blade.

Regards,

[runagmc]

Here's a good reference site,

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm

 

If you see where it says links at the top of the NMB page there are many more good ones there...

[MacDeuce]

the information here has been very helpful, thank you both.

 

I've read that the consensus is restoration is a bad thing. I have zero interest in selling it. I never did, but hearing that it isn't worth much to anyone but my family, I am more willing to try to get it looking better.

 

Using this website:http://www.realarmorofgod.com/Japanese-sword-parts.html :t he condition is this:

 

 

The Scabbard, or Saya is in three pieces. split down the center, and one side is split diagonally.

The Obi-Tori ( scabbard ring) is seemingly covered in rust.

The main blade seems to be in nearly perfect condition, still very sharp. it is however 80-90% covered in corrosion, rust i assume.

The scabbard sleeve, Habaki, is almost corrosion free, maybe some minor makrs. It does have some medium cracking on a few sides. Seems strong and stable otherwise.

The metal spacers, Seppa, (4, a large and small on either side of the guard), are almost completely corroded, loose, and maybe slightly bent or mishappen.

The Guard, Tsuba, has some kind of dirt or gunk on it. It is also loose, but seems otherwise ok.

The metal sleeve, Fuchi, has some of the same gunk, its a darker color, and maybe some scrapes? on it.

The bamboo pin, Mekugi, looks worn out. slides in and out easily. I dont know what it should feel or look like, so i dont know how bad it is.

[MacDeuce]

Continued...

 

 

The wood handle, Ho, doesnt seem to be seems to be split and some minor wood damage.

The fish skin, Same, slides, and is broken in one side.

the ornaments, menuki, move, and seem to be corroded.

The butt cap, kashira, seems to be corroded and loose.

and the wrap, tuska ito, is most likely stained? and a little loose.

 

Any thoughts? I would like to get the corrosion and gunk cleaned off if possible. I am not really sure how far i would want to go with it. History and authenticity VS. what i think a sword would look like.

[nagamaki - Franco]

One suggestion, begin reading articles and posts on proper maintenance of nihonto (check links at top of page, use search engine on this board), and then return here with any questions.

Restoration gets expensive very quickly for nihonto let alone non traditionally made swords. So, first stabilize the condition of your sword with proper care, take your time and learn (important to build a vocabulary), then proceed on any possible course of action, or not.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Mac,

What I would do with the sword were I in your shoes.

Do not clean the tang; do nothing whatsoever to this part of the blade.

Corrosion/gunk on loose metal pieces (tsuba, seppa, whatever) can be cleaned with warm water and a toothbrush.

If the pin (mekugi) is loose or weak I would replace it with a new one, which I would whittle from a bamboo chopstick. The mekugi is very important as it locks the blade in the handle and doesn't allow it to fall loose and shatter its point in the scabbard bottom or on the floor.

Coat the non tang portion of the blade with a very light coating of machine oil. Get an uchiko puff/ball and use it to remove a lot of the surface corrosion on the blade. Here is a link to a care & etiquette site that explains how: http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm

I wouldn't have the blade polished (goes without saying that I wouldn't try to polish it myself; that would be insanity) because the expense isn't justified by the value and the corrosion isn't bad enough to bother with. If you wanted to spend some money to make this more like what it was when made, you could have the handle rewrapped and the scabbard reglued. You could look into a new, lacquered scabbard but it looks like the uncoated scabbard is the original condition.

Resist all temptation to wing it (come up with your own formula for restoration). Chemical rust removers, abrasive pads, Elmer's Glue All and pretty much everything else you can think of will only dig the hole deeper.

Grey

[MacDeuce]

Thank you both very much. I am really enjoying my new learning experience!

[koopoo15]

if you want get your sword restored i would take a look at this website http://www.Japanese-swords.com/pages/about.htm