Uchiko - how to apply it to a sword

[b.hennick]

Today, at a sword club meeting, one of our members, who is not a traditionally trained polisher discussed the making of an uchiko ball and its use.

One thing that he told the club was to use the uchiko ball (pom) to hit the mune of the sword. The powder will float over the blade and land gently. He felt that this was the best way to apply uchiko. I, on the other hand, have uchiko on the mune.

He showed a $30 dissected pom. The core was a cotton ball, next came a few grams of actual powder, then a couple of layers of silk. It was interesting to see this - sorry no pictures.

Which do you use? Can you give a reason for the method used other than that is how you learned to do it(my reason)?

[Henry Wilson]

I have given up collecting swords but when I did, I quickly realised that uchiko is the best way to dull a good polish. I never used it after that moment. I used a micro fibre cloth, the kind you get for computer screens and camera lens etc. This worked well when I gave the swords a "clean".

[Ken-Hawaii]

I think the procedure depends on why you're using uchiko at all, Barry.

 

If it's just a fingerprint, then I also use a microfiber cloth & perhaps a bit of isopropyl alcohol, followed by a nice thin coat of oil, of course. But if something really gunks up my blade, then I apply uchiko along the entire length of the blade, on both omote & ura sides. My Japanese Sword Society of Hawaii is lucky to have four former shinsa sensei & two togishi as members, & one of our togishi gave a demonstration last year on how to clean the blade, & that's exactly what he showed, with our four sensei nodding all the time. That's good enough for me.

 

I'll moderate that comment by saying that if a blade is already "tired," then minimize the use of uchiko, which is only common sense, but only applying it onto the mune doesn't make much sense to me.

 

Ken

[sanjuro]

I too tend to only wipe my blades with alcohol and apply a new coat of oil for normal cleaning. (I refer here to blades in full polish). Only once a year do I use uchiko and then it is removed with a light touch before reoiling. This is all a sword that is not in use needs. I have heard of the method that Barry detailed, but to be honest, it seems rather foriegn to me having been taught to apply uchiko along the shinogi on both sides by my sensei years ago.

For swords in a lesser state of polish, the use of uchiko is dependant upon the result you wish to achieve, sometimes the use of uchiko will actually improve the polish by restoring it to a degree. Mainly however, since it is an abrasive, it dulls a polish with frequent use and heavy handedness and frequent use with uchiko will definitely ruin a good polish over time.

I make my own when needed, and have always done so, using uchiko powder that I obtained directly from a togishi. I force filter the uchiko powder twice through silk before making up the ball so as to remove any gritty bits. Personally I would not trust any of the proprietry uchiko balls no matter how expensive they were. One simply cannot be certain what the ball contains as "Uchiko".

[drdata]

Barry, I too have heard of the "apply uchiko to mune" theory, the thought being the heavier bits will tend to fly clear of the blade via inertia, leaving only the finer powder to remain.

 

Then again, perhaps one should use better uchiko if chunks are in fact present.

[b.hennick]

The person giving the presentation used a very fine uchiko. The particle size was tiny. My uchiko was large by comparison.

[runagmc]

when I use an uchiko ball I hold it a few inches above the ji and tap the ball lightly with my finger and the uchiko just floats down. I don't really like the idea of hitting a pom w/ abrasives on it on a nice polished blade (not saying that's wrong, I just don't do it). Also it keeps the fabric of the pom from getting oil on it.

 

Like others have said quality uchiko is important. I filter mine by mixing it with water in a container and I only keep the powder that's small enough to stay bouyant for 40 seconds or so. The bigger stuff sinks to the bottom and I dump it dow the sink. It doesn't get much more low-tech than that but you end up with pretty fine uchiko.

 

Pretty much the only time I use uchiko is when I want to study a blade. Excessive cleaning w/ uchiko takes away the dark staining of the steel from nugui.

 

btw: this is just what I do incase anyone cares

[w.y.chan]

About 15 years ago in an email communication with Kenji Mishina the subject of uchiko came up. Mishina san said there is a kind of uchiko that appear on the market costing Yen 1,000 that does'nt scratch your blades which he recommend.

[Jean]

Same as Henry since I scratched a blade with poor grade uchiko, never oil the blades. Not necessary under Paris climate.

 

I use Paul Martin cloth.

[Alex A]

I tried microfibre cloths, didn't like the feel on the blade, felt abrasive, gone back to using an old white cotton tshirt :D , someone is now going to tell me white tshirts are abrasive arnt they? No neod.

 

Alex.

[seattle1]

Hello:

Interesting issue Barry!

As consumers we are sort of Lemming-like in the consumption cascades that follow new products; witness all the electronics toys folks rush to buy, and even the humble microfiber cloth doesn't get exempted. I would rank them right up there with that awful coarse Japanese paper found in "sword care kits". It must be a magnet for abrasives after very little use.

I believe the right uchiko, used infrequently and properly, e.g., by never reversing a stroke, is best for a blade and not damaging to it. I think it helps set a new polish and is harmless if used correctly. I do not think the mune striking method, if used alone, is sufficient to distribute the uchiko uniformly. The key is getting the correct uchiko. I have some prepared by the Hawaii based togi-shi Bob Benson, and they are excellent. With them came a multi-page discussion of the time consuming and pains taking method of manufacture. One stand out clue to good uchiko is that the pom , at least initially, be heavy in comparision with those cheap ones in the boxes.

While Bob does not mention it, I believe it is wise not to hit the pom hard on the blade as is so often seen done by the sword tengu at the shows. While I am no physicist I would imagine that the g forces are substantial and if anything will abrade the steel surface and will leave an impression, only to be magnified by repeated use of that practice.

Finally, if you use oil, get the very best. A few years ago I saw a report on the chemical analysis of "sword choji oil", and it was usually transmission fluid. That might be okay, but it just doesn't seem right. I also saw a study of the inclusions found in common Kleenex type tissue as manufactured. I do use it but do not remove the uchiko with strong finger pressure.

Arnold F.

[b.hennick]

My uchiko also comes from Bob Benson. He does not always have uchiko for sale - it costs more but is I believe the best available. I also use microfibre cloth. Nothing in excess....

[Alex A]

Microfibre is man made, quite coarse, kind of feels like your polishing your blade with a fleece jacket. The next time you clean your blade just try a cotton cloth afterwards, you will know what i mean. The best kind of cloth would be a jewellers cloth, im presuming that maybe what Jean has. A trivial matter, but if your willing to buy top quality uchiko, maybe best buying the top quality polishing cloths too. All down to personal preference, as i said, i use old cotton rags made from tshirts. "Yawn", i here you say. :D

 

Alex.

[w.y.chan]

Again not all microfibre cloths are the same.

10yrs ago I purchase a cloth to clean my dSLR lenses and went for the most expensive one call Microdear from Adorama, it was pricey and I had to pay import tax. A few years later while exchanging emails with Paul Martin he mentioned about this superb cloth being used by sword appraisers in Japan, lo and behold it was the Microdear. I went and ordered a few from him and it was cheaper than from Adorama and no import tax. Thanks Paul.

[w.y.chan]

My uchiko also comes from Bob Benson. He does not always have uchiko for sale - it costs more but is I believe the best available. I also use microfibre cloth. Nothing in excess....

 

I have a Bob Benson uchiko ball, I used it once on a polished blade and never again. No disrespect to Bob B, I believe it is an inherent nature of uchiko because it is an abrasive, it did harm my blade. I'm please to have purchase it and keep it a souvenir and only use it on out of polish blades.

I do have another polisher made uchiko by a Japanese togishi that is much more finer and gentler, again I don't use it on polished blade.

[seattle1]

Hello:

Mr. Chan, are you sure that the uchiko was made by Bob Benson? That could make quite a difference!

Arnold F.

[w.y.chan]

Hello:

Mr. Chan, are you sure that the uchiko was made by Bob Benson? That could make quite a difference!

Arnold F.

 

Hi Arnold, yes it was from Bob. I bought it from him. It is finer than the ones with a stick sold in kit. It is what it is, tiny stones, kind of remind me of cutting polish used on car painwork to get rid of scratches by removing paint. Not good for nugui and hadori.

[drbvac]

I believe when uchiko was first used to remove oil or anything else from a blade there was very little else available to take it off - water wouldn't work and some of the other stuff today was not around.

 

For sure the routine with freshly polished blades would not be the same as for a sword used in battle and nowadays the preservation of swords dictate that once in fresh polish at the very least don't use anything abrasive or harsh chemicals to clean it. Older blades that may be not in full polish could possible be improved upon by using the uchiko.

 

There are liquid polishing compounds available that will not scratch clear coat paint on 100 thousand dollar cars but I wouldn't use them on a blade.

 

Is there not less chance of any damage at all with alcohol and sewing machine oil and well washed single use cotton ? Why would one even consider using anything that has any abrasive qualities>

[Alex A]

"Is there not less chance of any damage at all with alcohol and sewing machine oil and well washed single use cotton ? Why would one even consider using anything that has any abrasive qualities"

 

Totally agree Brian.

 

Alex.

[Brian]

We go through this debate once every 3 months.

Basically...my view is that I use it on very out of polish swords. If the hamon is barely visible and you cannot see the hada, over time it will improve the blade so that you can at least see the hamon. Works well on blades that are dark with patina or with surface rust that has been stabilized.

I wouldn't use it on freshly polished swords or swords in full polish though. There are better things as mentioned here.

 

Brian

[w.y.chan]

Some collectors prefer isopropyl alcohol. I uses that to clean edge connectors in electronic devices. It seems to dissolve oil, remove tarnish, etc, but I'm not sure what else it can dissolve and would it be deterimental over a long period of use? I have tried it before but not over a long period of time. A concern is some togi uses some kind of resin to fill small holes, alcohol may dissolve or dislodge it and can cause scratches in the process. Another is would alcohol lighten the nugui? Not used it long enough to find out.

[Binnawan]

I use the uchiko on my English cavalry swords, seems to do a good job.

 

Baz

[Guido]

... that awful coarse Japanese paper found in "sword care kits".

Nuguigami isn't meant to be used as is; it must be thoroughly wrinkled to soften it. It then does actually a very good job without scratching the blade, but of course it isn't washable, and thus more expensive than cloth in the long run. It is, however, more absorbant in my experience.

[runagmc]

A concern is some togi uses some kind of resin to fill small holes, alcohol may dissolve or dislodge it and can cause scratches in the process

I think they use lacquer, maybe urushi, which is made from sap... It is extremely resistant to almost everything...

[cabowen]

Most use urushi. Alcohol is fine but more aggressive solvents like acetone may be an issue if left on for more than a short time....

[w.y.chan]

I think they use lacquer, maybe urushi, which is made from sap... It is extremely resistant to almost everything...

 

"Almost" is still a risk. Remember these are small pittings being filled and may not be resistence enough against repeated use of alcohol and pressure over a number of years. I've seen fillers flaked off on a sword and left a scratch though not from using alcohol but actually occured while I was removing oil with soft tissue, felt it before I saw it.

[seattle1]

Hello:

Originally the thread was the issue of uchiko and after reading a lot of skepticism about its use I asked Bob Benson for his opinion. As everyone probably knows, Bob has polished swords for decades, is one of the very top professional polishers in the US, has almost certainly polished more swords than anyone in the US, and, yes, makes and sells uchiko. His reply, which I quote in part, follows:

"Uchiko is actually the final act in polishing. Very clean uchiko when used properly is the way to go. There are many that have a varied idea of how to maintain their swords. Some people don't want oil used on their swords, some people use lighter fluid to clean them, a lot of people want the blade stored without oil. Most collectors use too much pressure when wiping off the uchiko. They forget that it is made from a stone and when I only use the powder that is suspended in the water after sitting for several minutes it can also make small hike or sun bursts when used improperly. In the last 5 years I have been teaching to only tap it on the mune and let the powder fall down on the sides of the sword then wipe it off gently with kleenex." (chalk one up for Barry)

He goes on to talk about the uchiko he has recently made, half of which sold in San Francisco, and that the ones he makes now are "very heavy with the powder and would last 10 years."

I believe that the "...uchiko ... is the way to go" says it all, at least for informed and expert opinion. Benson surely makes no profit making and selling uchiko; they are intended for the care of top swords.

Arnold F.

[cabowen]

While I trust Bob's opinion, Fujishiro and many polishers in Japan now use microfiber cloths.

[drbvac]

Considering that a toshigi like Bob says it "can" damage blades and "most use too much pressure" I am gonna stick with a method that I couldn't arse up if I tried - Murphy's laws come into effect on most jobs I take on and once scratched - too late then to say - shouldna used that stone powder.

 

Many owners in the great north use old ripped cotton T - shirts :lol: :lol: