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Posted

All

 

I have a gunto mounted blade that I’m unsure if it’s an older forging than a Showato and possibly gendaito. I haven’t been able to translate the nakago 2 character signature (see picture). There are no arsenal stamps present. There is 1 small grain opening (see picture) near the machi and the blade has a visible hada, I believe itame. The hamon is chu-suguha. The blade does have a slight “wiggle” (nee bend) to it when looking down the mune. Also attached is a picture showing a full view of the nakago showing 2 Ana and the machi for reference. Unfortunately, the habaki must be clogged with I suspect cosmoline (the machi area was very greasy) as it can’t easily be removed from the nakago and I’m reluctant to force it.

 

If someone can help translate the smith’s name that would be a great help in potentially determining its era of forging. Thanks for any assistance.

 

Cheers,

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Posted

Sukefusa, he is listed in Fuller & Gregory, a Showa era smith. Hard to say if Gendaito or not, he did make swords with a Showa stamp at times. With the flaw i would say it is best enjoyed as "militaria" the cost etc to try and repair it is proabaly not economical.

Posted

Thanks for the quick reply Mark. Unfortunately, I don't have F&G's Swordsmiths of Japan 1926-1945 (I've been trying to locate it for awhile but without success). Sukefusa isn't listed in Slough's and not on the Nihonto Club swordsmith index as a showa smith with that name but there are several others from earlier periods. Hum...... Agree with you on the economics of a polish, etc.....

 

Thanks again and Cheers,

Posted

Hi Patrick,

I think the reason your sword has a tight habaki is that (from the pic), your blade is machi okuri (notches moved up) and a new hole drilled. It is tight at that spot IMHO because the "swell" of the old nakago/blade meeting area is at that point...the habaki was probably slightly "squeezed"' to stop it rattling in the slightly narrower new position further forward. This can be noticed as the person who moved the notches up did not re-file the yasuri, but left them clean and left the hamon into the nakago. This can be noticed as where the habaki is now (in the pic) is probably its original position. Whether this was done WWII or post war I can't say.

btw, your hamon appears very active, not chu suguba?

Regards,

George.

Posted

Hi George

 

Thanks for the observations; they’re invaluable in expanding my knowledge. I can see where the yasuri wasn’t refilled and the hamon definitely now extends into the nakago. Can you offer a reason why the blade would be machi okuri? The current tsuka/tsuba/seppa combination aligns with the ana closest the machi area.

 

Yes, the habaki does move slightly to a position on the nakago and then binds just about where it’s in the picture and can understand what you’re stating but I can also see “gunk” inside it but again don’t want to force it. There is minor activity in the hamon but otherwise a medium, straight version, most likely water tempered, hence the presence of some activity. Unless I’m just missing some finer point, not unheard of in my continuing education.

 

Best regards,

Posted

Hi Patrick,

We don't often see machi okuri in Showa period blades (or Taisho, Meiji either for that matter). The reason is usually connected with the modern "infantry fighting" length stipulated by the army in these periods. I have seen blades, even reasonably recent ones, shortened or machi okuri'd to fit gunto mounts and regulation lengths, and even with the curve of the nakago reversed to fit the "down curving" kyugunto hilt mounts.

In this case I think, since the mounts all fit correctly to the new mekugi ana, it was possibly a iai blade made in the 30s-40s which was later altered to fit "regulation" length...your "new" blade should be c.66-67 cm. It would be interesting to measure from tip to the "old" machi notch to see how long it was before shortening. This shortening BTW was probably done by the owner who had his iai blade altered when he was called up. Just my opinion.

Regards Geo.

PS I did have a look through my books for Sukefusa, can't find anything...he is not a Seki smith that I could see, so...? I'll post if I find anything.

Posted

Hi George

 

Great insights, thank you. The measurement from the kissaki to the current (new) machi is 63.5 cm. The length from the kissaki to what would have been the original (old) machi (as best I determine since it’s obliterated) is 70.5 cm. BTW, the hamon extends into the new nakago about 3.8 cm. Also, I can distinctly see the "swell" of the old blade now into the nakago where the habaki binds. It’s very apparent when viewing the new nakago top down.

 

I would be very interested if you learn more about this Sukefusa.....

 

Best regards,

Posted

Hi Patrick,

63cm is about the shortest length allowed in gunto, maybe even a bit below it, but 70cm is definitely the maximum allowed (I have an RJT blade at 69.9cm, the max). I think that as your blade was at the long limit for gunto, it was probably machi-okuri'd for personal preference...perhaps it was an iaito donated for war service and altered by the recipient to fit him. As a matter of interest, since the machi okuri area is still polished and tempered, it is worth knowing for the future that if you see this again with a blue "heat" band here, you will know the nakago tempered area has been heated for de-tempering. I have seen this heat blue several times on blades altered for war service. Presumably it disappears with use/wear on older blades which have had this done.

Still nothing on Sukefusa...keep searching.

Regards,

George.

Posted

Hi George

 

Most of the gunto mounted blades in my collection (about 20) are in the 68-69 cm range. Although, I do have a Star stamped blade that is 61.5 cm in length (kissaki to machi) that was discussed in some detail in another thread. I have another incoming where the length is 60 cm. I was intrigued by its short length and wanted to handle in person.

 

The hamon is still visible in the now tempered portion of the new nakago but the yakiba has been de-edged so that it’s no longer sharp but otherwise has no visible evidence of de-tempering. Interestingly, the polish of this area, once I cleaned the gunk off, remains in better condition than the blade itself.

 

Cheers and later,

This thread is quite old. Please consider starting a new thread rather than reviving this one, unless your post is really relevant and adds to the topic..

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