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Posted

Marc,

 

I you've tried to find these characters in a table of Japanese kanji, consider well the reasons that they weren't there...

 

Can you post a photo of the rest of the blade?

 

Dan K.

Posted

I am not sure I agree with the Chinese fake view. Admittedly I am not fully up to date on what the Chinese fakers are now doing but I dont remember them copying late naval swords. Also there is none of the other characteristics such as course attempts to produce grain, bad shape and poor nakago that is normaly seen. The signature is admittedly low quality and "clippy" and I cant read it either. But for the rest it looks like a non traditionally made late naval sword in low cost and late naval mounts.

So not a piece of high art but more likely a piece of WW11 militaty history.

I am sure the military enthusiasts can confirm orr otherwise the authenticity of this sword.

regards

paul

Posted

What i see is an original Kai Gunto with illegible signature and a "reworked" or replaced saya (look at the fit of the saya in picture 100_0135_2.jpg ). The fittings, tsuba, fuchi kashira etc. look original, the saya itself does not.

 

I have rotated it for those of you who know more script methods in Japanese.

 

Sword.jpg

 

KM

Posted

Hi Marc,

This is an odd sword...the tang looks slightly "wobbly" along the edges, giving feeling of "Chinese fake", but the blade certainly looks genuine WWII gunto. I think it and the fittings point to WWII genuine gunto (non-traditional make).

I think the man who signed this should be found and slapped (hard) by the slap fairy.

Anyway, the first two characters say HISSHO (certain victory)....then ? ? SUKE ? (I think John's call "hiro" is reasonable)...too rough to be certain but could also be SUKEHARU (ji of Meiji)...hope Morita san or Moriyama san see this.

Seems neat and tidy example of a kaigunto.

Regards,

George.

Posted

as George said it is an odd sword but it could be good, the fittings as such and koshirae I think are good and will be a close value to what you have paid for the sword, keep researching!

regards

John

Posted

Thank you all for taking the time to help me find out about this sword.I am more of a gun collector and this sword was part of a three piece set including a rifle and bayonet.I welcome any more info anyone can supply as I am truly a novice. Is there anything I should do to the sword as far as blade care and storage?I have not touched the blade at all.It does have a smell of oil of some type.

Posted

You probably all will start swearing now, but for an unpolished WWII "machine" made blade I use WD-40 or mineral sewing machine oil.

 

"The long-term active ingredient in WD40 is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away."

 

I do however try to make sure it does not oil/reach the Nakago.

 

For true Nihonto and polished blades i would only use what Jamie recommended in the previous post.

 

KM

Posted

If I understand correctly the blade of this sword is late ww2 and machine made.Id does not seem super sharp.Are they suppose to have a razor edge?What is the reason there is no arsenal stamp on the blade or numbers on the fittings?

Posted

Can this blade be sharpend or polished?As I said it is not very sharp.Is it vbest to just leave it as is?Sorry for the simple questions but I am very new to this.

Posted

Hi Mark,

 

Yes it can be polished but it will cost you around 2000$. Never try to polish or sharpen it with anything, just live it like it is.

 

"Let well enough alone" :)

Posted

Looks legit to me but has had an amateur restoration. Badly wrapped tsuka and the loose fittings on the saya is a result of someone stripping off the original covering and painting the wood black. The screw heads are another clue. I have purchased New screws that have the perfect thread size, but the screw heads are far to large. Careful filing and a new slot cut with a jewelers file is needed to make them appear original. If you pulled it apart and sold the bits on the bay I suspect you'd make a reasonable profit. So 400 bucks? Cool.

 

Johnb

Posted

Hi Marc,

You were quick...I see your sword is on ebay. I looked back through your posts and can't see anywhere that you mentioned it was going for auction when you were asking for information. Well good luck with your sale...maybe you could donate some of the profit to NMB as it has been such a help to you?

Regards,

George.

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