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Posted

If I have a naginata with the shira-saya having bare honoki. 1) Does it need to be coated with some sort of substance to protect the wood? 2)If so, what is "traditionally used"? (And/or easily available)

 

Thank you

Posted

Traditionally, ibota powder (secretion of a cicada) is used. It's kind of hard to source and comes in a powdered form. Darcy seemed to be a proponent of bees wax as its easier to source and apply. But there aren't a lot of articles specifically covering the application of ibota, bees wax, etc. that I can find. Hopefully some more members can chime in but this has also come up in discussion as many people will get a sayagaki put on their shirasaya and people are looking for a way to refinish their shirasaya again after having a sayagaki added. 

 

 

 

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Posted

I asked Brian Tschernega about this due to his expertise in making shirasaya. As @nulldevice said, ibota wax is traditionally used. I bought some from the UK, put it in a mesh jewelry bag, and tried “dusting” the shirasaya with it by lightly hitting the bag against the shirasaya. Brian T. said to use a specific Japanese leaf (the name of which I do not recall) or large wood shavings to rub the ibota wax dust on the surface of the shirasaya. Having neither the specific leaf nor large wood shavings, I have experimented with various other things. Nothing has yet given me the results I would like. It mostly looks like I have not accomplished anything.

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Posted

You can buy wood shavings in a pet store and the leaves I think Brian mention are common horse tail leaves. I'm not sure of their scientific name, but they tend to grow in slightly damp soil, at least that's where I found some. I'd let them dry a little before using them. 

Posted

I could be wrong, but I think horsetail leaf is what Tanobe sensei uses to scrape the shirasaya, removing the wax, before writing the sayagaki. The leaf Brian mentioned was much broader.

Posted

A sword collector friend in Fukuyama grows some tall spiky green stalks which he said were traditionally used as sandpaper. He cuts them into sections and lays them out to dry. I think they were hollow, with rough exteriors. I’ll see if the name corresponds with horsetail ferns, which I had thought was something different. Hmmm…

Posted

Also found this text:

 

Google keywords: shirasaya horsetail reed

https://islandblacksmith.ca/process/carving-saya-scabbard/

http://www.scnf.org/styled-10/styled-4/styled-8/Saya_2.html

https://www.woodworkforums.com/archive/index.php/t-154064.html

ABOVE LINK HAS THIS TEXT:

Schtoo

12th June 2012, 04:24 PM

Steve,

Found this after a quick look;

blog page with rough instructions about preparing tokusa (http://ameblo.jp/minamototaiken/entry-11168496333.html)

In Japanese of course, but they give a rough description of boiling, then drying then wetting and slicing it down a side and peeling it open.

The bundles in the pic at the bottom are how I've seen it used, for smoothing out textured surfaces like an abrasive brush. Like I said, I've never used it but I did recall the fellow I was watching being very careful to not only not use it in a vertical orientation, but he repeatedly brought the dust back into the area he was working. That's why I assume it breaks down a little rapidly, but perhaps that was part of how he was using it.

I think I can buy it at the home centre here, wrapped up into a puck for smoothing out carved items. Never bothered with it myself though, maybe I should?

Oh, I don't know that it's the same plant but there's a kind of garnish/pickle that uses horsetails, and it tastes pretty good. Have to introduce you to e-no-abura/shiso oil/perilla oil. Great finishing oil, and tastes good as salad oil or in leaf form. ;)

Stu.

Also try keywords tokusa horsetail reed

BaZZa.

  • Like 2
Posted

Horsetail is basically EQUISETUM, and there are many varieties of it.

The plant contains micro-crystalline silica which explains the very fine abrasive effect. In former times, it was used to polish tin tableware.

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  • Thanks 1
Posted

The SHIRASAYA's purpose is to protect the blade from moisture (and other possible damage). HONOKI wood works fine in that respect as it can absorb moisture which might accidentally be on the blade or in the air.

Any oil, lacquer, varnish, or paint in or on the wood of the SHIRASAYA will stop this effect. Moisture will be trapped in the SAYA and lead to corrosion.

IBOTA wax will not form an air-tight layer on the wood.

- Did you ever hear about the damage that may occur in a wooden house in case it was insulated with Styrofoam boards? -

Posted

Hi Henry,

Unless your shirasaya has been messed with it probably needs nothing and you should leave it alone. Post a picture if you're not sure.

Grey

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 4/10/2025 at 8:59 AM, Grey Doffin said:

Hi Henry,

Unless your shirasaya has been messed with it probably needs nothing and you should leave it alone. Post a picture if you're not sure.

Grey

Expand  

Sounds good. Thank you.

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