Sword Care/Maintenance: Isopropyl Alcohol

[Big Jimp]

Recently at the advice of a friend with shared interest in the preservation of nihonto, I’ve tried and now implemented the use of 99% isopropyl alcohol in my sword care regimen. 
 

I’ve used it, rather than uchiko or anything so abrasive, to remove old oil at the start of a cleaning or before studying my blades. My test run was on a showato I posses, and with great result I have since implemented it for use with my nihonto. 
 

A partially saturated, folded tissue paper wiped gently across a sword does a fantastic and quick job of removing old oil and evaporating. A single follow-up wipe with dry tissue paper or a microfiber cloth ensures dryness and gets up any remaining bits. The blade is left perfectly cleaned, an unharmed. Everything in moderation, of course.

 

Attached is a photo of my gendai Hizen-tō after such treatment.

 

V/R,

 

Jim

[ChrisW]

We were actually discussing this at our Token Kai meeting last week. Its been my standard since I started over 14 years or so ago.  I prefer very fine unscented tissue paper or microfiber cloth, both will achieve the job but with microfiber having multiple uses (since its a larger area to start with).

[Katsujinken]

99% alcohol is the way to go. No need for uchiko. 

[O koumori]

Please remember that alcohol is hygroscopic - it absorbs water from the air.

Keep the container tightly closed. Only use a little at a time, and immediately close the container after you dispense it. Use the moistened tissue right away; do not pre-moisten it and leave it sitting around before you use it.

 

Dan K

[nulldevice]

3 hours ago, O koumori said:

Please remember that alcohol is hygroscopic - it absorbs water from the air.

Keep the container tightly closed. Only use a little at a time, and immediately close the container after you dispense it. Use the moistened tissue right away; do not pre-moisten it and leave it sitting around before you use it.

 

Dan K

Yup.

 

Any 99% isopropyl left out long enough to open air will become ~91% in a short amount of time.

 

Eventually isopropyl left out long enough will settle at 65% alcohol/35% water at its equilibrium point. 

 

From a computer building perspective, 99 vs 91% doesn't seem to make a difference on delicate electronic components. Not sure if 91% would have any adverse effects on blades. I know 91% is easier to obtain than 99%.

[GeorgeLuucas]

I've used both 91% and 99% with no noticeable difference. Probably one of those things we overthink. 

To Nulldevice's point; and in my experience in the alcohol industry - both become less-than-advertised in mere moments. Who's to say your 91% isn't 80% and your 99% isn't 82% by the time you get to the end of the bottle. And at that point, what's the difference if you're not able to measure it? 

Like mentioned, it's best to use it fast. 
It's cheap compared to your blades, so you might as well replace it often - and use the older bottles for other things. 
Cheers,
-Sam


 

[Lewis B]

28 minutes ago, GeorgeLuucas said:

I've used both 91% and 99% with no noticeable difference. Probably one of those things we overthink. 

To Nulldevice's point; and in my experience in the alcohol industry - both become less-than-advertised in mere moments. Who's to say your 91% isn't 80% and your 99% isn't 82% by the time you get to the end of the bottle. And at that point, what's the difference if you're not able to measure it? 

Like mentioned, it's best to use it fast. 
It's cheap compared to your blades, so you might as well replace it often - and use the older bottles for other things. 
Cheers,
-Sam


 

I would recommend buying a larger bottle and immediately aliquot into smaller sample bottles (cheap and readily available from drugstores and Amazon). Keep the air volume above the liquid to a minimum and if you have it flush the container with an inert gas. Those compressed gases canisters for preserving bottles of spirits are very good. If you have access, wrap parafilm or other sealing tape around the lid. The contents will not degrade. Discard the in-service container say every 3-6 months. depending how often you open it. 

[GeorgeLuucas]

I use isopropyl for so many projects that I go through it pretty quick, otherwise i'd be doing something like that.

 

I also buy it in bulk for work, so I have tons available. (Well not tons... but dozens of gallons )

It should also be mentioned, that it can be dangerously flammable - and the vapors can be harmful if inhaled - So you should always handle with care and wear your proper protective equipment (PPE). 

Cheers from your friendly neighborhood brewer ,
-Sam

[Mark S.]

And, of course, the tissue paper (I also use plain toilet paper as well) should be free of all oils, scents, moisturizers, etc, etc.  

[Alex A]

Don't know why folks feel the need to use alcohol.

 

What oil are you using, Supagloop1000 or something.

[GeorgeLuucas]

10 hours ago, Alex A said:

Don't know why folks feel the need to use alcohol.

 

What oil are you using, Supagloop1000 or something.

I think this is a fair question that nobody has asked. Is the alcohol even necessary? 

I would say yes.... but only sometimes... If the oil is particularly old, or maybe you want to change oil types (from choji to typewriter / etc.). To ensure the old oil is completely removed before applying a new one - probably out of an excess of caution. 

Otherwise, for regular use, is it really required? I suspect not. 

I am interested in hearing others opinions and reasonings. 
-Sam

[Alex A]

Never used it in 15 years, Sam

 

Maybe once, quite reluctantly.

 

Just of the notion that cloths and oil do no harm (not talking choji oil) so why potentially add a concern (as mentioned above) when there is no need to.

 

Don't use choji either, just use gun oil very sparingly and it wipes off very easily.

 

It doesn't go off or turn into anything that requires alcohol to remove it.

 

An horses for courses thing, whatever works best for folks

[Matsunoki]

Very recently I was watching a programme on NHK TV which was about swords in general but also featured a top togishi visiting a famous collection, can’t remember where, in order to examine and maintain their swords. Upon withdrawing the sword he proceeded to apply copious uchiko, clouds of it - and continued with the traditional method of wiping the blade. No sign of any alcohol. 
Made me wonder if it’s OK for him to use uchiko why are we (or some of us) so against it?

I have read on here that uchiko can cause scratches. I wonder if those scratches were actually caused by wiping the blade wrongly ie dragging fine particles of rust etc up the blade from the area usually covered by the habaki. Such debris can easily collect under the habaki.

Many years ago I was instructed by a trained togishi on  how to wipe the blade “correctly” which involved wiping the area just above the habaki downwards towards the nakago (not onto the nakago) and then with clean cloth/tissue wipe the remainder of the blade towards the kissaki. 
Dunno, who’s right?….

[Alex A]

I just refer to this, Colin

That was enough to put me off, don't see it as necessary on a blade in good polish.

 

Though do see modern smiths using it, even the smith in the vid i just uploaded is using it.

 

 

[GeorgeLuucas]

42 minutes ago, Alex A said:

Never used it in 15 years, Sam

 

.....

 

An horses for courses thing, whatever works best for folks

Considering that you in the UK have a nearly identical climate/humidity to me in the northwest USA. I think your 15 years of experience is worth taking to heart.

Different horse, similar course? 

I think i'll forget the alcohol for a bit and see if I notice anything. I suspect I wont! 

Thank you!
Cheers,
-Sam

[Alex A]

This is what put me off Choji oil, from Aoi Art care guide.................

 

Special notes ;

1. Generally, Choji oil has been used to treat Japanese swords. This is a sticky vegetable oil traditionally used in cleaning swords. It promotes oxidization of the blade that will result in rust in the future. In our opinion, and based on our experience, we do not advise you to use Chyoji oil. We suggest that you use high-quality machine oil on your sword. This is the same type used when maintaining guns or sewing machines, and it is the only oil that we use with our swords at Aoi Art.

[Alex A]

Ps,  tried sewing machine oil (Singer), didn't like it as it seemed too thin and hung around in globules

 

Hence gun oil.

[Matsunoki]

42 minutes ago, Alex A said:

I just refer to this, Colin

Interesting Alex. Is this a case of the Japanese using uchiko simply because it’s tradition no matter what the consequences? 

Trouble is whatever you wipe a blade with….microfibre….tissue etc etc , they can all become contaminated with scratch producing particles of whatever.

Scratches also often caused simply by repeated withdrawal of blade from either saya or shirasaya.

Another thought, alcohol absorbs water. So when the alcohol evaporates can that leave even minuscule amounts of water trapped in the hada, in kizu etc?

Again, dunno.

[Mark S.]

As has been mentioned before, many scratches and swirl marks are added when the uchiko ‘cloth ball’ smacks along the surface of the blade by an over-eager applicator.  In the rare cases I use uchiko, I angle the blade and tap the ball along the mune and allow uchiko to fall along surface of blade and then turn blade to other angle and tap down mune again to get uchiko on both sides.  I probably waste uchiko, but it’s a small price to pay vs. having ‘Sun-burst’ scratch marks all over my blade.

[Alex A]

Colin,

 

I just use cheap cotton cloths off ebay, throw them away regularly. They are kept in a plastic bag in the cupboard

 

Don't put them down anywhere where they can pick up dust and give them a shake before using them, check them over.

 

As you point out, saya rubbing can be a real issue. See it in write-ups on sales pages occasionally, "marks from in and out" lol

 

Beginners reading this.............ALWAYS ON THE MUNE!!!!!!!!!!!, as someone eloquently told me off when i started 

 

 

[Brian]

51 minutes ago, Mark S. said:

As has been mentioned before, many scratches and swirl marks are added when the uchiko ‘cloth ball’ smacks along the surface of the blade by an over-eager applicator.  In the rare cases I use uchiko, I angle the blade and tap the ball along the mune and allow uchiko to fall along surface of blade and then turn blade to other angle and tap down mune again to get uchiko on both sides.  I probably waste uchiko, but it’s a small price to pay vs. having ‘Sun-burst’ scratch marks all over my blade.

This is the correct way

[Lewis B]

I thought choji oil was just scented mineral oil and therefore a petroleum byproduct. Tsubaki oil (camellia) I think is a better option. Personally I'm not sure oiling a blade really does that much if the owner is careful to wipe the blade every time it's placed in the saya. I know a collector in Germany who owns multiple Juyo papered Koto swords and has never used oil as part of the routine maintenance and care. 

I think oiling a blade only makes sense in very humid climates, when living close to the ocean (salt) and when shipping blades especially if air travel is involved. 

[Jeff Vines]

Hi All

Reading what you guys are saying is a marvel with the knowledge you have and I have only just joined the forum to gain more knowledge on this subject. I am a militaria collector for some years now and own three very nice NCO ww2 katanas, nothing in your league though. But what I will say is with my very first one I purchased the person I bought it off did say to me that gun oil is all I need to wipe sparsely on the blade. I also use it on all my other blades I own, bayonets etc,,, and I have never had a problem with any of them using this method.

 

Jeff

[Alex A]

Lewis, there are guys in the UK that don't oil their blades either, nothing wrong with that if that's what folks want to do.

 

My personal experience is this.......

 

In winter there is no heating on until the evening as im a tight ass and dont like paying extortionate heating bills, would rather just put a fleece coat on . So in that respect there are temperature fluctuations that have me concerned when it comes to storage.

 

Other concerns such as burst pipes etc whilst i am away on holiday or whatever makes me wary enough to try and give the swords the best chance of survival should the worst arise. Might sound like some kind of over the top antique "prepper" but **** happens. Next door had to move out of their house for a month when they got back from hols and the interior of the house had to be totally rebuilt.

 

Call me a born worrier.

[Lewis B]

5 hours ago, Alex A said:

Lewis, there are guys in the UK that don't oil their blades either, nothing wrong with that if that's what folks want to do.

 

My personal experience is this.......

 

In winter there is no heating on until the evening as im a tight ass and dont like paying extortionate heating bills, would rather just put a fleece coat on . So in that respect there are temperature fluctuations that have me concerned when it comes to storage.

 

Other concerns such as burst pipes etc whilst i am away on holiday or whatever makes me wary enough to try and give the swords the best chance of survival should the worst arise. Might sound like some kind of over the top antique "prepper" but **** happens. Next door had to move out of their house for a month when they got back from hols and the interior of the house had to be totally rebuilt.

 

Call me a born worrier.

Well flooding in the UK is a bigger issue these days. True, the risks increase with wide temp fluctuations combined with high humidity, eg in winter, which I can see as being potentially detrimental, so 'tight asses' should definitely oil their blades.

[Honya]

And what about 99% isopropyl in the spray bottle? 

 

https://allegro.cz/n...megaspec-13481941961

 

It should solve the problem with alkohol being hygroscopic. The can is filled with some presured gas and there is no contact with new air at all. What do you think about that?