Tsuba stands

[Steves87]

Hi everyone, I have been getting quite a few messages on instagram about the Tsuba stands I created and use. I have started to offer out the .stl file for people to make their own, and I thought it may be a good idea to share here too. They are a simple 3d printed design and can be printed very quickly, depending on the quality settings. The pictures show examples of the lowest quality setting (some minor disruptions on top of the base). If you have a 3d printer, or access to one, it is a good option for a stand that is very consistent when displayed on a shelf.

https://www.dropbox....rmmh4nrt4lpz70k&dl=0

 

[Jesta]

I have been trying out plastic stands of different designs. I has recently become a bit worried about the sharp edges scratching or wearing the rims of copper tsuba. Do you have any trouble with that? I haven't experimented, but I am interested to know if the softer metal might get rubbed or scratched by hard edges on a plastic stand. I am particularly concerned with nanako designs... 

[Steves87]

Hi Justyn, 

I can understand your concern. I can confirm that I have now just checked three soft metal Tsuba (one with Nanako - a polished face - and a Chidori-ishime finish), and none show any signs of wear. One of these has been propped by the stand for at least three years, and I have been using the stands for nearly 7 years on most (or all) Tsuba construction materials. The contact surfaces of this stand are technically only small 4 areas (less than a millimetre each); two at the bottom on the mimi, and one either side of the Nakago-ana (within the seppa-dai). The plastic you use is dependent on what filament you personally prefer... I use PLA which can be scratched with a fingernail. I use this material in its print-extruded state with all sorts of bare-untreated-unpatinated metals and it has not caused any form of corrosion to date (including Chinese-made functional dojo katana blades).

 

I guess one thing to consider, is how much movement your object will be making while in the stand; technically, the object should not be moving at all. I say technically because: in a previous profession I worked in for over 20 years, we did study the effects of vibrations (from wind/traffic/sounds etc) on buildings and the effect these vibrations had on the building (and the contents too, in some cases). High rise buildings move a lot through sway and wind induced vibrations, and buildings next to heavily traffic motorways are vibrated massive amounts via sound and heavy vehicle contact with the road. Potentially, the stands could mark a Tsuba that is propped by a plastic stand in these high movement cases, but even then, I would guess there is more chance of the stand being deformed first, and I'd say there is more chance of a timber stand causing damage to a Tsuba, before the plastic one does!

[Jesta]

Hi Stephen,

Thank you for the really detailed answer. I have been looking for a reliable stand for a while now, one that is not super-expensive. I will give your design a try, and I really appreciate you making available. 

 

[ROKUJURO]

I use a similar design but handmade and from bamboo. A diameter of 50 to 70 mm will fit most TSUBA. You can influence the design by choosing the front side. I recommend a fine Japanese KATABA saw for the work.

Cheap, and easy to make! Of course there is ZERO damage risk if you don't rub the stand with the TSUBA !

[Steves87]

Nice one Jean, stand damage really should not be an issue if both are stagnant.

I'd really only worry about moisture absorption when holding iron, or materials that 'off-gas', otherwise most 'soft' materials should be ok?

[ROKUJURO]

Just in case the design wasn't obvious:

 

[Steves87]

Basically the same design, nice thinking Jean! You achieved a very effective design naturally, in only 4 cuts!

[Mark S.]

I use these plastic stands I get inexpensively from a site called ‘WISH’.  Items are direct from China in most cases.  They come in different sizes, but I find the 5cm tall ones work best for almost all tsuba.  No problem with scratching on iron tsuba, but if there is a concern I suppose the edges could be sanded down a bit or a small piece of cloth/silk could be used to cushion tsuba.  They only cost about 50 cents a piece depending on quantity purchased.  Other nice features are: they are stackable (don’t take up much room), because they are clear they don’t take away from or block viewing the tsuba, and if they get broken or lost it’s not a huge financial loss.  

 

[Andi B.]

I also use these acrylic display stands (can be found in mineral shops for items like agate disks etc.).

 

[Steves87]

The clear stands are optimal for sure. A while back you could get a transparent white filament for printing, but it wasn't transparent at all once printed. I'd love to have a perspex plate (with a small peg) so that the whole face of the Tsuba is unobstructed, and, if a mirror behind, the whole face of the reverse side would be unobstructed too.

I have looked for something proprietary that would meet this want, but it seems there is nothing readily available, and id have to construct them myself, one by one.

[Jesta]

10 hours ago, Mark S. said:

I use these plastic stands I get inexpensively from a site called ‘WISH’.  Items are direct from China in most cases.  They come in different sizes, but I find the 5cm tall ones work best for almost all tsuba.  No problem with scratching on iron tsuba, but if there is a concern I suppose the edges could be sanded down a bit or a small piece of cloth/silk could be used to cushion tsuba.  They only cost about 50 cents a piece depending on quantity purchased.  Other nice features are: they are stackable (don’t take up much room), because they are clear they don’t take away from or block viewing the tsuba, and if they get broken or lost it’s not a huge financial loss.  

Those are the ones I have been using too. I was just getting antsy about the sharp edges and points having an impact on the copper or shakudo tsuba (iron is not an issue). What I am doing now is to use a nail file to soften the edges and points so that they don't catch on the nanako on the rim, or press into the copper. I am probably being overly cautious, but I don't want to regret damaging things later.