Can this sword still be saved?

[MartinAle]

Hi,

I came upon this sword and its sheath is in a pretty rusty condition. Is it beyond gone? Can you share any info on it? Thanks

[Shugyosha]

Looks like a gunto - a WW2 army sword but it’s hard (for me) to tell if it’s genuine. 
 

I wouldn’t waste my time and money on it as the attractive bit for me would be the blade and it’s machine made and so has no artistic value which is what I’d want from saving it, but feel free to disagree. 
 

Less than $100 outlay and a couple of months soaking in oily rags or newspaper and it might look a little better in terms of killing any active rust (don’t soak the tsuka) but your call really. 

[ROKUJURO]

What can be seen of the blade looks salvageable, but the rest is very probably gone. Can we see the NAKAGO (tang) please? 

[Stephen]

Guys it's a NCO. Military collectors may want to save It.

 

You won't find a Mei on nakago. 

Save your labor. 

[John C]

Looks like a legit type 95, however may not be worth trying to salvage. Mass-produced blade with no mei; saya looks like it may be too far gone; tsuka is aluminum and may be pitted.

But it could be salvaged if you don't mind it looking rough. 

 

John C.

[The Blacksmith]

Certainly salvageable!   It is never going to be Juyo status, but it should clean up reasonably Ok.

The saya is probably the worst bit, but a good soak in oil and a fine wire brush should show what we have left here.  I would imagine that it will require new wooden inserts in the saya, but there again, given the relative good condition of the blade, maybe not.

Personally, I would try and remove the tsuka. As Stephen has said, it will not have mei or anything on the nakago,  so no point in taking it off for this reason, but if the sword is stripped, it will be much easier to get a more desirable finish on the fittings. Make sure that the screw is well oiled and that it has soaked in before trying to remove it, and quite possibly apply a hot iron bar to the screw before trying to loosen it. The hot bar wil cause the nut to expand a bit, and may loosen it slightly. This is always worth a try first before trying to unscrew a rusted bolt like this!

Make sure that the locking catch is also well oiled, and that the oil has thoroughly penetrated before attempting to move the catch. otherwise you risk having it perhaps break right off!

 

This would be a fun project to do, but it will never be a national treasure.

[Stephen]

3 hours ago, John C said:

saya looks like it may be too far gone

Might be surprised if put into electrolysis tank.  Don't think beyond repair unless it has holes in it.

[MartinAle]

Many thanks for all of your replies, the knowledge you have shared, and your time. All is clear now.

[Stephen]

Been a min since owning a NCO.

Do the saya have wood liners?

Russ posted while I was typing. 

It would be a fun project if one took their time ....his outline is spot on.

[Brian]

NCO have monosteel blades, so there is no hamon or hada to worry about. Therefore I regard these as the ONLY Japanese swords (katana style) that can be worked on by a talented person with abrasives. Maybe a decent knifemaker or less trained togishi. I repeat...the ONLY Japanese katana.
I think this would restore ok. Tsuba can be replaced. Alloy fittings may or may not be salvageable. But it would have to be acquired very, very cheap.

[The Blacksmith]

12 hours ago, Brian said:

Therefore I regard these as the ONLY Japanese swords (katana style) that can be worked on by a talented person with abrasives. Maybe a decent knifemaker or less trained togishi. I repeat...the ONLY Japanese katana.

I wouldn't let a togishi, trained or not, loose on this blade to be honest. These swords were totally machine made, so this blade could easily be gently machine polished without any real danger of damaging anything. Alternatively, I think that rough wire wool and Solvol Autosol (chrome polish), would work equally well here, and that is probably what I would use. Though I do have a machine polisher, the wire wool approach would preserve a little of the age patina here, which on this sword may not be inappropriate I feel.

I must stress what Brian has already stated, that this type of sword, and ONLY this type of katana that could be treated this way!

[robinalexander]

Well I like what Stephen said (above all other posts).

 

Martin, you asked can this be saved......well hell yeah!

 

Ok, it might have come from the bottom of Yokohama Harbour but, I believe it's a genuine Type 95, aluminium tsuka and probably iron tsuba [maybe earlier brass tsuba?].  The numbers are correct and at the end of the day the Chinese...not even the Indians (not the wild west kind) would put out such an item. And it's unlikely a chinese repro would find itself in this predicament.

 

What's its story?  It must have one.

 

As far as I am concerned, this is a piece of history, regardless of condition. Yes, its not near a valuable as a 'normally used' 95 but it has had a life and it should still have a life from now on.  In this case its about WW2 history and memorabilia, its not about nihonto.

 

Please don't try and "do it up" or replace parts. It's just not worth it but more importantly, you would be destroying the soul of this sword.  It is what it is, so preserve it by all means but , don't try to refurbish it.

 

I would be happy to own it.

 

Rob 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 3, 2024 by robinalexander
Clarity

[Stephen]

Well said Rob

[Kiipu]

It is a Type 95 Military Sword 九五式軍刀 used by enlisted personal and also available for purchase by officers.  Based upon the serial number, it was assembled by a company called Kōbe 合名会社･神戸商店.

 

Looks like a nice, fun fixer-upper to me.  Some like a challenge while others do not.

[robinalexander]

On 1/3/2024 at 4:20 AM, Stephen said:

Do the saya have wood liners?

Sure do Stephen ...here are a couple.

[Stephen]

7 hours ago, robinalexander said:

Sure do Stephen ...here are a couple.

Thanks after asking it i thought of course silly ol boy. 

Might really be rattling  sabers. 

...

[vajo]

It looks bad but it isn't. The weak metals didn't corrode. The most is some kind of dirt. Dissamble the whole sword. Remove the wood inlays. If you had no idea about metal ask a oldtimer mechanic. He can tell you what to do. Nice sword.

[John C]

Are there any written or stamped marks on the wooden inserts? May indicate the shop where it was made.

 

John C.

[robinalexander]

John it would a very rare thing to find makers/owners marks on 95 inserts. I would venture to say it just didn't happen, unlike the odd 94/97/98's insert.

 

The damage appears to have been caused by salt water immersion and if that is correct,  my guess is that the soft timber inserts will be in pieces ..... at best.