How to loosen a stuck Habaki?

[HVM]

I have an Edo period Wakisashi with a Habaki (Brass or Copper) which is stuck as a house. I think a previous owner tried to loosen it with a hammer and screwdriver, but apparently without success. But some minor damage as a result. Is there a way to get it loose safely, without damaging the Wakisashi itself.

 

 

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Hylke,

You might try: clamp the lower nakago in a wooden jaw vise, with the blade vertical. Place a small hardwood block along side the the blade and on top of the habaki, and gently tap on the block with a small hammer. Move the block from front to back and side to side and eventually the habaki might work loose.

Any one have a better idea? Grey

[Brian]

Heat, in case old oil or something has gummed it up. But NOT a flame. You don't want to mess with the blade temper. Try boiling water or a hairdryer. Make sure you dry it well afterwards and leave it in the sun or use a hairdryer to ensure there is no water under the habaki.

[vajo]

Greys advise works allways for me. A soft rubber hammer and a piece of wood along the mune on top of the habaki will loose it. This also works when the tsuka is fixed on the nakago. You can fix the blade between the sheets of an big hardcover novel and pressing your knee on the book. I use allways my book Clausewitz "from war". 

[Alex A]

Id drop some pul down it, let it soak

 

Repeat

 

then as above

 

Ps, oil, not anything like wd40

 

it stains 

[HVM]

Thank you all for the advice and tips. I will give these a try and let you know what worked.

[robinalexander]

3 hours ago, Grey Doffin said:

Any one have a better idea? Grey

Grey's got it ....the only variation I use is to simply lay the blade (with habaki) on a thick towel(s) and use wood and a small hammer, we call them 'tack' hammers. So no need to clamp.  

 

I find that very small but sharp hits, loosen everything I have had to deal with. Basically using the weight of the blade itself as the resistance.

[waljamada]

The best thing I've found is actually this Japanese hammer and leverage device thingy tool (sorry forgot the proper name) that they sell to remove tight tsukas etc...it works just as well on habaki.  I believe Grey had some for sale at some point.  It's useful to have around for many reasons.

[Larason2]

I agree with Grey's advice. I actually had a reproduction recently with a habaki that was siliconed in! Still, a hammer and a small wooden block got it off. I've also gotten some off that were seriously rusted in this way. I use some thick cloth to clamp the blade in a metal vice, blade edge up. Sometimes you have to be patient, hammer up and down the habaki edges, to try to get it to rock up and down a bit.

[Matsunoki]

A word of warning.
Before engaging with hammer and block check out the construction of your habaki.

if you have a nice gold or silver foiled example it is all too easy to crease/dent/disfigure the beautifully applied and textured foil covering……and you’ll never get it to look perfect again.

Likewise, if you have a nice two piece habaki they do not have the same integral strength as a solid one piece one so go easy.

if you have one that  is both foiled and two piece then go extra easy.

It’ll be too late after the event.

The patient and judicious use of a few drops of thin oil and a hair dryer as already suggested is far far safer.….and remember ……the blade is sharp. Be prepared to take a few days.

Good luck. Colin