Family Heirloom

[Zimmy70]

This blade has been in my family for a while and I’ve recently had the thought of trying to figure out it’s history. It was treated poorly by myself when I was young, not knowing what I was abusing, and I feel it deserves time in the spotlight. 
I have little knowledge on Japanese culture and language, so I figure a forum is a good start.

Who does the signature belong to?

What is the time period of the blade?

 

Any information is greatly appreciated. 
I know images can only provide so much, I can take more upon request.

 

Thank you

[xiayang]

Hi Parker,

 

Your blade is signed

 

近江守藤原綱廣 = Ōmi no Kami Fujiwara Tsunahiro.

 

I don't suppose there is anything on the other side of the nakago (tang)?

[DTM72]

It could be one of two guys,

 

https://nihontoclub.com/smiths/TSU245

https://nihontoclub.com/smiths/TSU269

 

Both guys lived/worked in the early Edo period 1673-1704

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Parker,

Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/

First off, resist every urge to fix the blade. Restoration on Japanese swords should be left to those who have proper training; well meaning amateurs often do damage.

Now, on to the scabbard and handle which need to be put back together to protect the blade. Don't use glue; again there is the risk of damage. Try this technique. Cut strips of paper about 1" wide and long enough to wrap 1 1/2 times around the scabbard. Wrap one around the scabbard about a foot below its top. Tightly wrap the paper strip with masking tape. Place the scabbard top down on a table and force the paper/tape downward towards the table. The scabbard is small diameter at the bottom and largest at the top. As you force the paper/tape towards the top of the scabbard it gets very tight and locks to 2 pieces of wood together. It may take a try or 2 to get the paper/tape where you want it but You'll get it right. Do the same 2 or 3 times further down the scabbard and you're set. When the time comes to have the scabbard properly glued the paper/tape can be slid back down and no tape residue will be left on the wood. Do the same with the handle, which is smallest at the top and largest where it meets the scabbard.

Now you need to replace the bamboo peg that locks the blade in the handle. Get a decent quality chopstick and whittle to fit. Don't neglect this step; the peg is very important.

Cheers, Grey

[Mark S.]

Just to add a bit to Grey’s wonderful information, the storage scabbard (shirasaya) is designed to be taken apart if necessary for cleaning and the proper ‘glue’ he mentions is basically a paste made from rice.  He is recommending the use of paper bands so you won’t be tempted to try some other type of glue or adhesive that is too permanent and then the scabbard is ruined if it needs to come apart later, or worse the blade is damaged if some of the uncured adhesive gets on the steel.

 

For the peg (mekugi), another alternative to the chopstick is a bamboo knitting needle.  They are usually very hard bamboo, fairly well made, and come in several diameters.  You will still need to cut and whittle a bit for a good fit. 

[Larason2]

Greg/Mark, would you risk a tiny bit of hide glue (nikawa) to put the wood back together?

[Grey Doffin]

Why would I do that? The paper bands are 100% safe and reversible, do a great job of holding the saya together, last for years, and are easy to apply. Hide glue risks damage.

Grey

[Zimmy70]

11 hours ago, xiayang said:

Hi Parker,

 

Your blade is signed

 

近江守藤原綱廣 = Ōmi no Kami Fujiwara Tsunahiro.

 

I don't suppose there is anything on the other side of the nakago (tang)?

Does not look like it

[Zimmy70]

Would any of you know of a reputable place to send this to in the US that could do an evaluation/restoration on the blade and the scabbard/handle? I live in Memphis, TN.  
 

I would love to tackle the scabbard and the handle, but now knowing its history I would rather let someone more knowledgeable and professional do the work. 

[Larason2]

I would say hide glue is also 100% reversible. With small amounts, it is probably also safe. They use it in Japan, they also use it in Canada/the US whenever they need a strong but reversible bond for wood. If you give it the 24 hours to cure, there is no way it can damage the blade.

[Mark S.]

8 hours ago, Larason2 said:

Greg/Mark, would you risk a tiny bit of hide glue (nikawa) to put the wood back together?

Which is why I stated: “He is recommending the use of paper bands so you won’t be tempted to try some other type of glue or adhesive.”  
 

There is a specific reason a specific type of ‘glue’ is used.  

[Bugyotsuji]

Dealers in Japan often use rubber bands as a temporary fix to hold a shirasaya together, but rubber perishes easily, especially with the humidity,  leaving ugly marks on wood, so they are generally frowned upon. Grey's sliding paper bands above sound ideal.

[rematron]

Elastic hair ties come to mind. Think of all the color options! 
 

Rubber bands would be perfectly safe if there was paper between the rubber and the wood. 

[Larason2]

1 hour ago, Mark S. said:

There is a specific reason a specific type of ‘glue’ is used.  

 

I'm not doubting that another type of glue is used, and if you know why it is, I'd like to know! However, crushing and mixing the rice is a particular skill that's not easy to learn, whereas hide glue is much more forgiving and just as reversible. The truth is that paper bands and rubber bands really aren't that good a solution, so why not fix it with a safe, reliable, and reversible method while it waits for proper fixing? I'd be surprised if anyone able to repair a shirasaya wasn't able to quickly and safely take one that's been glued with nikawa apart. This isn't the same as many other synthetic glues that are a nightmare to deal with by someone coming after you.

[Grey Doffin]

Not wanting to hijack the thread and turn it into gluing but... A big reason for recommending the paper bands is that an amateur can do them and not get into trouble; not so with any glue. Hide glue is probably safe but will work well only if pressure is applied, not something an amateur is likely to know. And what if the 2 pieces of wood aren't perfectly in place when the glue sets? BTW, rice glue isn't difficult to make; if you're going to glue a saya why not do it right?

Parker, to answer your last question about restoration. There are crafts people in The States who can do the work but the ones who are properly trained are booked years in advance and they aren't inexpensive (you're looking at $3K give or take to have your sword done right which, BTW, will get you a new scabbard, as there isn't a lot of sense in keeping the old one.) You could look for a restorer who charges less and works quicker but he doesn't do good work and needs to find a different hobby.

Also, you don't know enough to do a good job of having your sword restored. This isn't a dig at you; all beginners at Nihonto are in the same boat. I recommend putting the bands on the scabbard and handle, making a new pin, putting a very light coat of machine oil on the blade, and taking serious time to learn about what you have. The more you understand if and when you get your sword restored the happier you'll be with the results.

Grey

[Larason2]

Thanks Grey. That's fair enough. Could you explain about the rice glue then? My only knowledge of it is watching the smith from Crossed Hearts Forge mix it up, and it seemed to me that it was more complicated than hide glue, but I could be wrong. I would also like to know why it's preferred for this case. If it's better I make another post, I can do that!

 

PS. Sorry for calling you Greg earlier!

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Carlos,

Youtube has how to videos for rice glue. It is preferred because it doesn't color the wood, it won't damage a polish if any squeezes inside the saya (as long as it is given time to dry before he blade is inserted), and because it is traditional, which means a lot in this field.

Grey

[Larason2]

Thanks, I appreciate that.

[Mark S.]

It may be easier to make the glue from rice powder?  A little more controllable.  Here is a link:

 

 

[1kinko]

You can buy it ready made online, Nori brand, and it’s really cheap.

[Jacques D.]

On 4/4/2023 at 3:18 PM, DTM72 said:

It could be one of two guys,

 

https://nihontoclub.com/smiths/TSU245

https://nihontoclub.com/smiths/TSU269

 

Both guys lived/worked in the early Edo period 1673-1704

It is the same swordsmith for both links