Type 95 v3

[Jay M]

Have the opportunity to buy this sword and would like help on if real or fake. Story is, it’s a war souvenir and individual has had it for 30 years. From research here and elsewhere, it looks like a type 95 version 3. Aluminum handle with iron. Matching numbers and some traces of green paint on sheath. Looks like it may have worn off or painted over. Some surface rust. Except for serial number and small stamp, I can’t find any other markings (red flag ?). Took about 47 pics but will only post a few highlights. Can add more if needed   Thanks for any help  

[Bruce Pennington]

It’s a good one, Jay.

[Jay M]

Thank you. He wants $300 for it. Guess it’s worth it. This will be my first real historic sword. He use to have a civil war cannoneer saber but it was stolen. Said it was rare and worth $250K

[Jay M]

Am I right in that it’s from Tokyo Arms ?

[robinalexander]

Jay, Tokyo First Arsenal inspection stamp on the blade.

 

More often than not, the iron fuchi's did not have maker's, inspection and arsenal stamps.  From your pics I can't see any under the black paint but that is Ok.

 

300 is  bargain basement price for a matching Type 95 of any pattern and this one appears to be in quite reasonable/average condition.

Just do it! 

Rob

 

 

[Jay M]

Think I’ll head to the bank tomorrow 😁

[Jay M]

2 hours ago, Bruce Pennington said:

It’s a good one, Jay.

Can you give me more information on it either here or email?

[John C]

Jay:

Bruce is definitely the man to give you more info on the sword, but I also think you should buy it for 300. They are late models but solid pieces.

And BTW, if you get it, don't do anything to it until you read the care and cleaning instructions on this forum. No need to take off the handle. There was usually nothing written on the tang on these models. 

John C.

[robinalexander]

Jay, a couple of more links for you but NMB Military Swords section is full of threads on Type 95's of all patterns .....great holiday reading 

 

 

Non-commissioned officers Gunto - Ohmura site

 

https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/Japanese-militaria/ija-type-95-nco-sword-info-228172/

 

Rob

[Jay M]

Where would I find a replacement tassel?

[Jay M]

Where would I find a replacement tassel?

The seller told me the local pawn shop has “nicer one” for $800. 

[Jay M]

1 hour ago, John C said:

Jay:

Bruce is definitely the man to give you more info on the sword, but I also think you should buy it for 300. They are late models but solid pieces.

And BTW, if you get it, don't do anything to it until you read the care and cleaning instructions on this forum. No need to take off the handle. There was usually nothing written on the tang on these models. 

John C.

Wasn’t gonna try and clean or disassemble. I know when I don’t know enough to do it right. Lol. What would you suggest about the surface rust on scabbard? Seller keeps blade oiled but I can see a few spot that can use polish. Or should I leave it alone? 

Edited January 7, 2023 by Jay M
Added pics

[vajo]

Leave it alone. Clean the blade with isopropanol and oil it slightly. Do nothing more.

[Kiipu]

13 hours ago, Jay M said:

Am I right in that it’s from Tokyo Arms?

 

Your sword was assembled by Suya under Kokura Army Arsenal control.  This is based upon swords in the surrounding serial number range.  The final inspection & acceptance was performed by Tōkyō 1st Army Arsenal and that is the 東 that Rob alluded to on the blade.

[Bruce Pennington]

I've been sick for a few days, and trying to take care of elderly, sick in-laws at the same time, so haven't had much free time lately.  You're in good hands, and the info and advice all the guys are giving are spot-on.

[Jay M]

So for the blade I just clean a LIGHTLY oil. Will gun oil work? How do I care for the scabbard to prevent further rust? Normally I would do the same for blade but don’t want to damage it by doing something wrong. 

[John C]

14 minutes ago, Jay M said:

Will gun oil work?

Jay:

Personally, I would not use gun oil as it may "open" the pores of the steel, which it is designed to do. Choji oil (sword oil) is 90-99 percent mineral oil. So if you have some food grade mineral oil (it's lighter than standard mineral oil) you can use that. A VERY thin layer is all you need using a clean cloth, preferably microfiber. Grey Doffin recommends sewing machine oil, which is also good.

As for the scabbard, you may consider a very thin layer of wax. But really, you don't need to do much to it. Another consideration is whatever your goals are for the blade. Some folks here restore their blades and scabbards (by painting them) because they want to display them and are not concerned with intrinsic value. Your blade; your choice.

John C.

[Jay M]

1 hour ago, Bruce Pennington said:

I've been sick for a few days, and trying to take care of elderly, sick in-laws at the same time, so haven't had much free time lately.  You're in good hands, and the info and advice all the guys are giving are spot-on.

Hope you and in-laws get well soon. Thanks for information. 

[Jay M]

10 minutes ago, John C said:

Jay:

Personally, I would not use gun oil as it may "open" the pores of the steel, which it is designed to do. Choji oil (sword oil) is 90-99 percent mineral oil. So if you have some food grade mineral oil (it's lighter than standard mineral oil) you can use that. A VERY thin layer is all you need using a clean cloth, preferably microfiber. Grey Doffin recommends sewing machine oil, which is also good.

As for the scabbard, you may consider a very thin layer of wax. But really, you don't need to do much to it. Another consideration is whatever your goals are for the blade. Some folks here restore their blades and scabbards (by painting them) because they want to display them and are not concerned with intrinsic value. Your blade; your choice.

John C.

I intend to leave it as is. Add a tassel if I can find one. Just want to stop the rust. I have some Aussie wax for leather. Will that work for the scabbard?

[Bruce Pennington]

I’ve been told that oil will stop the rust too. Your pictures don’t show the extent of the rust, but if it was mine, I would try to rub the rust down as far as possible, and then the oil will do the rest.

 

The trick is being able to rub the rust down without rubbing off the paint. You don’t want to do more damage than has already been done to the remaining paint job.

[Jay M]

3 hours ago, Bruce Pennington said:

I’ve been told that oil will stop the rust too. Your pictures don’t show the extent of the rust, but if it was mine, I would try to rub the rust down as far as possible, and then the oil will do the rest.

 

The trick is being able to rub the rust down without rubbing off the paint. You don’t want to do more damage than has already been done to the remaining paint job.

What type of oil and what to rub in with? Microfiber?

[Shamsy]

The rust on the scabbard looks old and stable. You'll likely do more damage messing around with it than just leaving it alone.

[Jay M]

So bummed out. Got the money, but guy has been gone for a week. Just got back and said his son pitched a fit about him selling the sword, one that was bought from someone else, that he gave the sword to his son. Thing is, he thinks son my have just wanted it to sell. 🫤