Need education on sword maybe type 95

[Leon]

Hello all first post.

bought my first sword need help with ID and if it’s real or fake.

I think it’s a NCO type 95. Also would like to know best way to clean and if I should.

 

[Leon]

Sorry problem pick upload

[Leon]

[Leon]

[Leon]

[John C]

Leon:

I don't have the experience to speak about the blade and serial numbers, however the marks on the fuchi are correct. According to Bruce's stamp document, the stamps reference the Suya Shoten Co., Ltd Kokura Arsenal, Tokyo 1st Arsenal. In addition, the tsuba, top latch, and seppa looks correct. The "throat" in the scabbard also looks correct.

 

John C.

[Leon]

Thanks John, I see I am going to have to learn symbols.. you say Bruce’s stamp doc ID symbols. Is that located on this forum. Is there also a parts listing that would help me to understand verbiage for them.

 

thanks again.

[Seth]

Hey Leon,

 

See Bruce's stamp doc below.

 

 

 

[Shamsy]

Complete and genuine 95. Wipe the cosmoline off the blade with white alcohol and then oil. Only oil the blade and lightly. Leave the rest alone and try to use gloves on the painted parts.

 

You've already identified the sword as Suya with the Kokura 'cannon balls' stamp and the Tokyo 1st Army Arsenal inspection stamp in the middle.

 

Nothing much else to share.

[Leon]

Thanks Sham. You go to some of these estate auctions and you do your best when buying. To me it just look original with all the patina it had but the fakes do a good job with that as well. I thought it was worth the chance. 

[Bruce Pennington]

Leon,

Suya made quality swords, so you have a nice gunto there.  You can start learning terms here:

Japanese Sword Visual Glossary

 

and learn of the sword types with excellent photos on Ohmura's fabulous site:

Military Swords of Imperial Japan

 

[Leon]

Thanks Bruce for the links.

looks like I got some learning to do.

 

thanks again.

[Leon]

Thanks for all the help with the ID, now I need some more help with cleaning.

I have broke the sword down and trying to clean. There is some tough  stuff on it.

just need make sure that certain part that have a Finnish remained that way.

need help on what parts should be cleaned to the metal they are and the others that have a Finnish stay that way. I may get some terminology wrong but here goes.

the Habaki has staining on it should it be cleaned to the metal and how.

the Septa have a Finnish on the edge’s should the rest be cleaned to the metal.

The Tsuba has a Finnish just clean only are all these Finnish some sort of parkarze..

the Fuchi has a Finnish it should just be cleaned parkerized also.

the tang has rust should I steel wool it or not.

 

 

[Seth]

Hey Leon as Steve said above you just want to get the cosmoline off the blade and oil it nothing more. You 100% don't want to touch anything with steel wool and especially the nakago. Any attempts to "restore or clean" will actually lead to lowering the value not increase it. Nice find!

[Leon]

Thanks Seth.

not sure what the Finnish on the Habaki is has something on it. May take more elbow grease and WD40.

 

[Bruce Pennington]

Just use warm, soapy water on the tsuba and seppa, then coat with oil.  I don’t mind working the rust off of seppa, though as mostly only the edges show.  You probably won’t get the stain off the habaki.  It’s brass with an artificial copper finish.  Working on that runs the risk of removing the copper finish.

 

I personally clean the nakago of all of my type 95s. It goes against the cultural practice around here, but they are mine and I want them to look good.  As a minimum, use a rough rag and oil to kill the active rust, then wipe it down.

[Leon]

Thanks Bruce

What is the Finnish on the Fuchi and TSuba. I thought about soaking the Nakago in some diluted vinegar to neutralize the rust. But after the input about this I think not.  

[Bruce Pennington]

All the metal parts, except some seppa, are colored.  I honestly don't know how, but believe it to be paint.  Others will have a better idea about that and the effects of various cleaning solutions.  

 

During my first time, rookie, cleaning effort, I was using a course plastic sponge and learned that the paint would come off a black seppa!  It's only warm soapy water for me now, or at most a penetrating oil to get at tough grime.

[Shamsy]

Patina is an important part of these swords. Other than stabilising actuve rust, it really is best to just leave it alone. Other than the blade, there is nothing I see that would benefit from any kind of cleaning. 

 

As Bruce has already said though, these are not art swords, so if you really want to try and clean it, just try not to remove the protective coating on the brass (the brownish tint), try not to remove any paint, try not to remove stabilised black rust, try not to damage anything (like soft brass screws).