First nihonto - Wakizashi

[vfl]

Greetings!  I am coming over from the SBG forums having purchased my first Japanese piece.  I am very surprised at how old these blades can be, and at how well they have survived.  To find something equivalently preserved on the hema/european side is almost unheard of.  I hope to expand my collection beyond this initial piece, but so far this first one has proved to be very impressive!  Any insight into it's history would be greatly appreciated

 

I did have one additional question:  The tsuba is very loose.  The hole that the blade passes through is significantly larger than the tang itself.  Is this something that you should attempt to repair/fix with an older weapon like this?  Or is it best to leave it alone and preserve it's condition

 

link to Aoi appraisal:

https://sword-auction.com/en/product/4879/as21001-脇差無銘-末三原/

 

Thanks!,

w/r

Ben

 

[kissakai]

The spacers (seppa) are not difficult to make by using a thicker plate. Loads of info on the internet

I had to make a couple and this made a big difference

 

[Brian]

If the hole is too large, copper pieces are usually fitted in the tsuba to fit it to the blade. However that isn't easy for the average owner, so I would just add some leather pieces to tighten it up. You won't see them anyways.
Tsuba are often swapped out, and I think most average swords have had some pieces swapped out.
Not a train smash.

[Seth]

I could be way off base here because what do I know but how long have you had it? I always like to give the blade time to adjust to my climate before I pay any attention to anything like that. But I have no blades mounted in koshirae, the ones I do have koshirae for use tsunagi and I never mount the blade in them, so my experience is lacking. I have a less is more approach. FWIW

 

Edit: Of course, none of the above will fix where the nakago goes through the tsuba... I can read I swear 

[1kinko]

If you Google semigame you’ll find tutorials about how to fit your tsuba. Your tsuba shows the cut outs where copper was previously used to fit to the nakago. If you cut out copper of the same thickness and shape and anneal it, you can easily fit it in place and expand it by hammering with a punch to fit tightly.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Ben,

I suggest you leave well enough alone until you learn more about Japanese swords. The loose tsuba isn't doing any damage but beginning collectors trying to fix a sword often do damage. Here is a care and cleaning brochure you should read twice:

https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/

Welcome. Grey

[ROKUJURO]

Don't google SEMEGANE (these can be parts of a SAYA), but SEKIGANE. 

[1kinko]

Oops, got me there- but I’m going to blame the close proximity of k and m on the iPhone key board!

[vfl]

Thank you for all the replies.  Sounds like I need to study a good bit before I attempt any kind of fix/repair. 

 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for oils to clean/preserve these?  I typically use Breakfree CLP on my European swords.  Is it ok to use this in this application?

[Char]

There's a lot on information on the forum about oils Fujishiro San's being one of the best.

[John C]

Ben:

Choji oil is traditional. It is 90 to 99 percent mineral oil mixed with clove oil. I would shy away from oils designed to "open" pores of the metal.

 

John C.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Ben,

Sewing machine or light machine oil will be fine; follow instructions in the care & cleaning I linked to. Stay away from specially formulated, fancy gun oils. Some of them have additives that can affect the patina of your sword.

Grey

[vfl]

I ordered some sewing machine oil.  Thanks for the rudder steers!

[jesse]

Ben, I use a pliable metal to fill in gaps on the tsuba and then file it smooth.

But, being new to the Nihonto world, Grey's advice is the best. 

[drbvac]

I have made some cast copper fittings for tsuba that are done in wax first and then cast the same way a gold crown for a tooth is made. The are usually staple shaped and fitted to the top and bottom of the tsuba opening then removed and cast. They are closely adapted but not exceptionally tight and are just friction fitted and no filing or hammering takes place on them as they are placed so that there is no potential for damage to the tsuba itself.  Like anything else - in any attempt at any endeavour - do no harm. Now that said if you do not have access to a casting machine or a dental lab you are probably out of luck !

[ROKUJURO]

Jesse,

you can make SEKIGANE just by hammering, sawing and filing them out of a solid copper sheet (about 5 mm thickness), but you will have to know how this works and what can be done to avoid damage to the TSUBA.

[b.hennick]

I have used lead as it is easy to work with. The lead is in a sheet firm so it is easy to cut, fold etc.