Type 95 Shin Gunto Tokyo Suya

[knd643]

Excited to be picking up this Tokyo Suya Type 95. From what I understand it is a early war model. Matching scabbard and blade but the scabbard has the last digit either being covered with paint or is a light strike, this was discussed in another thread I recently posted about stamping errors(I'll include a link to the thread at the end of the post). Seller said you can see the last digit in person but just barely. This is my first Type 95 and in general my first Japanese sword. Anyone have a rough value for these. Thanks for if any info is given.

https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/42467-lightmisstrikes-type-95-serial-numbers-common/#comment-435390

 

[Bruce Pennington]

You can do a search on eBay and get quite a range. Anywhere from $750 USD to $1400 USD. Some dealers are asking double that price, but that is common on dealer websites.

[knd643]

1 hour ago, Bruce Pennington said:

You can do a search on eBay and get quite a range. Anywhere from $750 USD to $1400 USD. Some dealers are asking double that price, but that is common on dealer websites.

I've noticed this when looking up prices. They seem to vary greatly, especially when its being sold by dealers.

[knd643]

Is there any way to date it to a specific year? From what I understand it was made Early War, but are there any indictors to pin it to a specific year like 1940? If not then by Early War I assume the years of manufacture would be 1939-1941, correct? Also I have one more question. In regards to "maintenance" of the sword I've seen people say you should oil the blade and not let it dry out, is there a certain type of oil that is recommended or would standard Hoppes/Ballistol work? Thank you.

[John C]

Colin:

Here is a link that does a great job explaining the differences with the type 95.

https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/Japanese-militaria/ija-type-95-nco-sword-info-228172/

Of particular interest is the thickness of the tsuba; 11mm for the early types and 9mm later on. The type 95 switched to an iron tsuba in 1941. Keep in mind all of these things can be switched out at times.

As for oil, choji oil is traditional. It is basically mineral oil (90 to 99 percent) with clove oil added. I would stick with mineral oil. But do not use products designed to "open" the pores of the steel, such as wd40. 

John C.

[Bruce Pennington]

I'm always a year, or 2, off on dating.  The stacked cannon balls of the Kokura arsenal mean this was made at or before 1942.  My guess is '41, but @Stegel @Shamsy can narrow that down more precisely, on a 41423 serial number.

 

As to the 'wetness' of the oiled blade, they say to rub the blade down with oil, then lightly rub it down with a dry cloth or paper towel removing the larger globs of oil.  The texture of the steel will retain enough oil, after that, to maintain a coating.  Leaving larger globs simply soaks the wooden liner in the saya.  You want your saya liner to stay as dry as possible.

[knd643]

8 hours ago, John C said:

Colin:

Here is a link that does a great job explaining the differences with the type 95.

https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/Japanese-militaria/ija-type-95-nco-sword-info-228172/

Of particular interest is the thickness of the tsuba; 11mm for the early types and 9mm later on. The type 95 switched to an iron tsuba in 1941. Keep in mind all of these things can be switched out at times.

As for oil, choji oil is traditional. It is basically mineral oil (90 to 99 percent) with clove oil added. I would stick with mineral oil. But do not use products designed to "open" the pores of the steel, such as wd40. 

John C.

Thank you for the info and link. I'll keep the choji oil in mind. From what I can tell mine looks to be the 9mm brass Tsuba, correct?

[knd643]

25 minutes ago, Bruce Pennington said:

I'm always a year, or 2, off on dating.  The stacked cannon balls of the Kokura arsenal mean this was made at or before 1942.  My guess is '41, but @Stegel @Shamsy can narrow that down more precisely, on a 41423 serial number.

 

As to the 'wetness' of the oiled blade, they say to rub the blade down with oil, then lightly rub it down with a dry cloth or paper towel removing the larger globs of oil.  The texture of the steel will retain enough oil, after that, to maintain a coating.  Leaving larger globs simply soaks the wooden liner in the saya.  You want your saya liner to stay as dry as possible.

Thank you for the info. I had been wondering if you could possibly date a Type 95 based off of its serial number but from what I had been looking up it seemed that there wasn't an official list or anything. Just a couple collectors keeping track of the serial numbers. Looking forward to possibly hearing more info on that. 

 

It seems like it's somewhat similar to oiling firearms, apply a light coat and wipe off the excess. That was one of my concerns was having the blade to "wet" and getting the inside of the scabbard wet. Thank you again for all the info you have given me in the short time I've been here.