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Posted

They are polisher's marks. Many sword polishers (at least the better ones)

place them as a decoration and type of polisher signature. Different

school of polishers used slightly different designs (number of lines,

thickness, etc).

 

Rich S

Posted

Thanks guys! :D

 

Would it be fair to say then that the polish marks can also help indicate the quality of a sword (in addition to all the other usual elements such as mei, flaws, hamon, hada etc...) ? Or did skilled polishers polish both high grade and lower grade swords alike?

 

Cheers,

Dan

Posted

To claim they are a sign of quality might be a stretch or half truth.

 

Think of it more as a bar code. The polisher responsible can read it and some have a system to their code by which they can read when they polished it. I have seen polish jobs where the polisher was so (proud?) of his work that he also burnishes in a very small mark or kao over the lines or in some other semi-secret spot. I've seen this a few times now. The first time was on a Juyo blade of the Rai school. The owner didn't even know the mark was there.

The polish was extremely beautiful and gentle, but I was mildly surprised a polisher would do that (it was hid in the horimono under or near the habaki).

I do not think this is common, but when I come across a blade with a higher end nice recent polish... I like to see if I can find these 'polisher kao'. Searching for it also yields a nice overall study of the blade.

Posted

Here is a good article about Kesho-migaki by Dr. S. A. Takeuchi, who also has some other good articles regarding polishing on his site.

 

http://www2.una.edu/Takeuchi/DrT_Jpn_Cu ... migaki.htm

 

The variations in kesho-migaki are pretty broad. I've seen any where from no nagashi to eleven. I've seen some patterns that have wider interspersed with thinner ones, solid with dashed, wood burls, kaos with lines, kaos without lines, and then when looking at yari you see the stepping patterns where burnishing in the neck is stopped in a transition into the ji.

 

Primarily, these are stylistic approaches and a result of one's training. Referring to the number, pattern, or accuracy of the lines to assess the quality of the blade is akin to judging the quality of the steak by the garnish on top. A polisher of high rank will polish swords that are of a quality he is competant and willing to polish. The very nature of the sword and the polish performed will define the quality of the sword. The sword will be viewed most times without even removing the tsuka and habaki and to do so without permission is a pretty serious transgression of etiquette. So the kesho-migaki would not be visible for judgement under that scenario.

 

If I remember correctly, nagashi is a term close to "washing away". Stopping the migaki (burnishing) abruptly leaves a somewhat unfinished appearance to the finished work. So, the decorative lines serve much the same aesthetic as yasurimei on a sword's nakago. It's a nice way of completing a fine work.

 

Curran, I can't really agree with you on the barcoding thing being a determination of time done, etc.. I think polishers remember the sword for the work and not the number or arrangement of lines. Fun if you think about it though. Makes me wonder what the price would be when scanned; *bleep* "That'll be $72,000.00 please" :-)

 

They're sometimes referred to as a signature, and I can agree with that somewhat. They are quite difficult to do well and the more accurately placed, uniform, and consistant they are demonstrates the capacity of a polishers skill, experience, and patience.

 

It would be an interesting study to document some of the variations for reference, like the one Curran mentioned in the horimono.

Posted

I should amend my statement about the "dating" in the barcode.

 

A polisher I respect told me that he did this, and demondstrated with several swords of one of his clients. The client confirmed that the polisher was correct. Maybe it was an April Fool's day joke on me, but I believed it.

 

It does not follow that ALL polishers who use the "barcode" do that, and I should not have implied it.

 

I have also seen the wood burl marks of that Ted mentioned. I'd forgotten about that.

This thread is quite old. Please consider starting a new thread rather than reviving this one, unless your post is really relevant and adds to the topic..

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