WW2 Wakizashi? Thoughts? How to remove blade?

[JustinJustin]

Hello-

 

I was hoping for some opinions/insight on a ?WW2 Wakizashi that I recently picked up? Always hard to tell things from photos but I don't know anything about Japanese blades. Any idea on age? Authenticity? Any ideas on how to remove the blade from the handle with the metal pin? Or is this not worth doing?

 

Thanks for your opinions and expertise. 

 

Kindly,

 

Justin

[SteveM]

Kind of a fancy scabbard to be bringing to WW2. I think maybe its pre-WW2 wakizashi.

That metal grommet is unmoveable? It won't pop out or screw out? 

[JustinJustin]

Hi Steve! Thanks for the reply. That makes sense about the scabbard. I purchased it as a souvenir brought back from WW2 so I guess that doesn’t preclude predating the war. 
 

I haven’t fiddled with the grommet much so as not to damage the sword. Both sides appear to have been flared out from hammering so as they appear wider than the pin hole. So I think they would have to be manipulated a bit to remove the blade. I haven’t tried seeing if it is a screw down mechanism. 
 

Kindly,

 

Justin

[Bazza]

It might be just a tight friction fit.  Try prying it apart with your fingernails!!  I say finger nails, nothing metal for sure.  Less haste, more speed and if in doubt don't.  I'm sure the handle (tsuka) is removable.  It's just a case of patience and I'm sure more advice will be forthcoming.

 

This could well pass as a Shotou (shorter sword of a pair) to a katana that turned up here recently.  Same lacquer.  I'll post a picture later today.

 

BaZZa.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Justin,

The metal pin is 2 piece and either a friction fit (male & female halves) or threaded (either right or left hand thread). This could be fussy to take apart without doing damage. Where in The States do you live? Maybe we can put you in touch with someone who has dealt with one of these before.

Mean time, here is a page with a care and handling brochure you would be smart to read:

https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/

Looks like it could be a better than average sword. Go slow and get some educated help.

Grey

[robinalexander]

Justin, 

 

Looks vaguely like a larger (free standing) sarute barrel from a 94.

 

Is it possible to post a couple of clearer and closer pics of each side of the 'pin' (mekugi)?

 

It might just give someone a better clue.

Rob

[JustinJustin]

Hi Rob, Grey, and Bazza! Thanks for all of the information, care tips,  and resources to help me figure out this sword. There is definitely a lot to learn. I looked at pictures of the type 94 Sarute barrel and definitely there are some similarities. I live in Spokane, Washington if there is anyone whom is knowledgeable with taking down this sword in the area. 
 

As to pictures please see attached. 
 

Kindly,

 

Justin

[robinalexander]

Good pics and quick response Justin.

 

I'm no expert on mekugi pegs but I just get the feeling that your 'peg' is poorly made and maybe not even designed to be removed.  I hope not but the last picture shows either that it is poorly made (most likely in my mind) or someone has had a real go at it trying to remove it. 

 

Maybe a pre-war Wak with a post war refit/makeover?

 

Rob

[JustinJustin]

Ok. With some gentle twisting was able to remove the metal pin. The blade still seems pretty stuck in the tsuka so I am giving it a break for tonight. Suggestions on removing the blade at this point?  
 

thanks,

 

Justin

[ChrisW]

There is a tool for it, but you can also hold the tsuka firmly in one hand, making sure the point of the blade is towards the sky. Then firmly strike your wrist with your other hand in a closed fist using the bottom of your fist and see if that makes it come loose. If not, you'll have to use a tool similar to what is found here: http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/tools.html

[robinalexander]

What Chris said 🖒

 

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Justin,

The fist on fist method is illustrated in the brochure I linked you to. If that doesn't work, you can try this. Place a bath towel on a counter (see picture), lay the blade on the towel and, gently at first, bring the sword forward so the black horn fitting at the beginning of the handle strikes the edge of the counter. Increase force as necessary but keep an eye on the black horn; it is tough stuff but it can crack if you push too hard. This method works in all but the most stubborn of instances. Take it easy and stop trying if you're uncomfortable with the force you're using. Note: this method works with plain wooden handle (shirasaya), horn if you're careful, mounted blade with a plain iron tsuba, but not soft metal, which would be damaged.

If you get the handle off, take pictures of both sides and replace the handle (using the method in the brochure) and the 2 piece pin. The pin is very important; it prevents the blade from falling out of the handle and breaking its point, either in the bottom of the scabbard or at the floor after it passes through your foot. Resist all urges to clean the tang of the sword; leave it alone. Resist all urges to try to fix anything with the sword; well meaning amateurs often do serious damage.

Best, Grey

[JustinJustin]

Good morning! Again thank you all for the great advice. I will spend some time trying these techniques after work tonight and post some pictures if and when I am successful:)

 

Thank You,

 

Justin

[ChrisW]

What Grey said! Best of luck and let us know what you find!

[JustinJustin]

Hello-

 

I finally managed to remove the blade with help of the techniques offered above. Unfortunately it does not appear to be signed  but does have a wonderfully dark discoloration to the tang with minimal surface rust. Please see the pictures I took tonight and let me know what additional information I might provide. 
 

kindly,

 

Justin

[JustinJustin]

More pics:)

[JustinJustin]

And the mounts. 

[JustinJustin]

[JustinJustin]

One last set of pictures and I might be using my imagination a bit too much here. But maybe there is some writing? See the area I have circled in red? Maybe? Thanks,

 

Justin

[SteveM]

Hello Justin,

No identifiable writing on the tang, but its almost assuredly a pre-1900s sword - we'd call it a "mumei Edo-era wakizashi" (i.e. unsigned, but otherwise genuine samurai sword). Hand forged with traditional methods and materials. It looks to me like it originally had a punched hole, and then the owner had a new hole drilled into it (perhaps to accommodate the new handle with the grommet). So that is the good news. I don't think we could nail it down to any particular region or maker, not without the sword getting a professional polish, anyway. Note the key word is "professional". Sword polishing is an art, and requires training and specific tools (otherwise you are just going to grind away the structures in the steel, under the mistaken belief that "shiny is good"). So keep it as is for now, and read up on the pros and cons etcetera on getting to a professional polisher. 

 

 

[ChrisW]

Be sure to keep the blade oiled! You want it gently oiled, no droplets visible.

[JustinJustin]

Thanks for all of the information everyone! I am looking forward to reading/learning more about this sword and might have to pick up a few more! 
 

I’ll definitely read on the pros/cons of professionally polishing the sword and pick up some sword oil to protect the blade. 
 

Thanks again for all the help!

 

-Justin 

[WillFalstaff]

Hi Justin,

 

Also, get a proper stand. 

You don't have to go balls-deep like EastCoast did in the post I'm linking, but don't go cheap on the display stand either.

Keep it oiled. If it's humid where you live, oil more than not.

If you take it out to look at it, don't talk as saliva will affect the blade--absolutely no touchy with fingers! Use a cloth to support the blade incase you want to use two hands. You can barehand it on the nakago ONLY.