Sword found at resale store

[xreflections]

I've always been interested in antique weapons, and today came across a sword at a resale store. It was $400, which was a lot for me, but I could tell right away that it was old. Sadly, the sheath is damaged (there is a cut right above the locking mechanism), with wear to the leather, but the mechanism still works. From my research, sounds like this might be WWII? This is my first sword, so I'd love to know more about it (and if it was worth what I paid)

 

The blade is covered in a dark, greasy-looking (but dry) substance. There are no serial numbers on the blade or hilt, as far as I can tell, and I'm afraid to try dismantling it to check the tang.

[SteveM]

Yes, WW2 sword. We could tell more if you removed the handle to reveal the tang, which is where the swordsmith signature will be (if any), and possibly a date. The writing on the little crest on the handle says 寺澤 (Terasawa), which is, presumably, the name of the person who owned it. 

 

The grease-like substance may be degraded cosmoline. It can be wiped off. Search this site for tips on care and handling. And also check this site for tips on how to safely remove the handle. 

[ChrisW]

Disassembly is remarkably simple! All you have to do is gently knock out the bamboo peg in the handle and gently slide all the parts off. Be sure to keep them in order! Once off, you can check the tang for markings and take pictures. If you find any markings, be sure to show them here. I am certain folk will be more than happy to translate them for you. The blade looks like it might have potential; especially with it having a mon (crest) on the kabutogane (metal end cap) of the tsuka (handle).

The blade itself appears to be covered in some kind of grease (probably cosmoline or similar). Other folk here will tell you the best method for removing that gently without damaging the blade!

[xreflections]

For removing the blade, do you have recommendations on what materials I should use to remove the pegs? I looked online, but I don't have a brass punch or hammer. As well, how do I know which side of the peg to gently tap? I only see one peg as well--should there be a second one?

[ChrisW]

Tap from the smaller side of the peg. You can use something of a smaller circumference and a hammer and gently tap it out. (For example a wooden dowel rod cut down and a hammer). And typically a blade will only have one peg, rarely two.

[robinalexander]

Aiden, 

 

Good buy for 400 US in my opinion but  I do tend to collect some orphans.

 

To remove peg (mekugi) you need something cylindrical and flat on the end....slightly smaller diameter than the mekugi peg thats in there.  Try a large nail and cut or grind the point off,, so its flat and then then lightly sand so there are no rough edges. Then use it GENTLY  to 'punch' the peg out.

 

From your pics, it appears that the biggest end of the peg is on the same side as the chuso button (release button).  If that is correct, then punch (softly/gently) the peg out from the OPPOSITE side. That is, you would be pushing the larger end of the peg out first.  Only one peg is normal for yours.

 

Yep, looks like cosmoline on the blade and everyone has a favourite removal potion but for my money, I would recommend a US product called NEVR-DULL it is impregnated wadding and while remove the old grease and put the blade in a much better position.  Will take a lot of rubbing!  Wont hurt the blade or impact on any hamon that may be lurking underneath.  make sure you wipe it all off when finished each time and lightly oil.

 

Dont clean any rust etc from the the tang (under the handle) maybe post a couple of pics and seek further advice on this point.

 

 

Rob

[xreflections]

I was able to remove the peg using a chopstick, but I'm having trouble removing the handle now. I watched some tutorials online, but I can't seem to get it off. 

[robinalexander]

Lay the sword down...use a piece of timber with a straight flat face and place it against top seppa (dont go near the chuso pin) and gently tap the timber with a wooden/plastic mallet (or tack hammer) and keep moving it around the seppa until it starts to give and come away from the blade. The seppa, chuso pin, tsuba and tuska (handle) should all come away together and then just work them off (keep them in order if you can).  Just take your time and be gentle.

[kyushukairu]

The lightweight lacquer saya (which has unfortunately been cut through), and the material sarute, were both upgrades, so I’m guessing the blade will be something nice. Most likely a gendaito, but I’ve also found a shinto hizen blade with a lightweight lacquer saya and material sarute (and a kamon on the habaki). Looking forward to seeing what’s inside. 

[Brian]

I have a good feeling about this one...Gendaito? RJT star stamp maybe? We shall see. Even if it  turns out to be a mass produced arsenal Showato in decent condition, that is a steal.

[xreflections]

I'll try to dismantle it tomorrow. I worked on cleaning off some of the cosmoline tonight and I'll post pictures once it's fully cleaned. Should I use Renaissance Wax on the blade once it's cleaned?

 

Thank you for all your help! I'll definitely keep my eye out for more swords from now on.

[robinalexander]

Ren. Wax?....I wouldn't at this point....just light oil maintenance until you know more abouf the blade.

[Stephen]

Take your time go slowly a product called goo off or goop, will remove the grease / cosmoline. Never dull is not recommended.

Lay a blanket on the table once the peg is out,

Place the sword on the table blade facing away of course now gently bump the tsuba on tables edge. See if that works

[ChrisW]

1 minute ago, Stephen said:

Take your time go slowly a product called goo off or goop, will remove the grease / cosmoline. Never dull is not recommended.

Lay a blanket on the table once the peg is out,

Place the sword on the table blade facing away of course now gently bump the tsuba on tables edge. See if that works

 

I do the very same thing!

Not to side-track, but I haven't used Goo Off, how effective do you find it?

[Stephen]

I was skeptical at first but the curator at Gold Star museum showed me  how effective it was without any damage to an item, it was less than two or three swipes and everything had been removed.

[ChrisW]

Dang! Well, I'll have to experiment with it some then before I try it on a showato I got that is pretty filthy. Thanks for the tip Stephen!

[David Flynn]

Never use Renaissance wax on a blade.  Also, Neverdul won't remove the gunk.   Alcohol (Isopropyl) will remove it.

[xreflections]

I've been using cotton alcohol swabs. Is that all right?

[Brian]

Yes....all of those. Anything isopropyl alcohol based, or stuff like Goo-Gone etc will work. They will all remove the dried grease. Afterwards, you can wipe with light oil or give a few wipes with NevR Dull. But the main thing is get the Cosmolene off.

[xreflections]

13 minutes ago, Brian said:

Yes....all of those. Anything isopropyl alcohol based, or stuff like Goo-Gone etc will work. They will all remove the dried grease. Afterwards, you can wipe with light oil or give a few wipes with NevR Dull. But the main thing is get the Cosmolene off.

Thank you. What kind of oil would you recommend using?

[ChrisW]

Choji oil is the traditional oil to use on nihonto. Even if this turns out to be showato (which I think is less likely), it would not be a bad idea to use it on this blade!

[Lareon]

yes for 400 that's a good buy in my opinion, as said before; the mon on there could indicate something nice beneath the surface.

 

Steven's method of removing the handle is a good one, also what i do is hold the handle tightly in my hand and with my other hand i hit my wrist just above where I'm gripping, i do the reverse when putting it back together and gravity does the work. i find it very gentle on the sword and effective.

remember to try not to touch the blade with your hands as the oils in your skin will damage it. wipe it clean with isopropyl alcohol as people have said.
don't try and remove any rust or anything. especially from the tang under the handle. post up some pictures of both sides when it's removed.





 

[David Flynn]

KANETSUNE Tsubaki (Camellia) Oil | eBay

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Alden,

You will find Care and Cleaning here: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/

which will tell you a lot about handling your sword. I wouldn't use Never Dull; it alters the surface appearance and you want to keep everything original at this point. Alcohol should remove the cosmoline and is the easiest to find. Any light machine oil will do fine for your blade; sewing machine oil for instance. Stephen's towel on a counter top method for removing the handle should work fine. Have an inch or 2 of the towel hanging over the edge so you don't damage the counter and lay the side of the sword without the spring clip on the towel. Draw the sword back and slide it forward, increasing force as needed until the blade starts to walk out of the handle. Other than removing the cosmoline, don't try to fix anything; well meaning amateurs often do unwitting damage. If your bamboo peg is damaged or brittle, replace it with a whittled chopstick. This pin is important as it locks the blade in the handle and prevents it from falling loose.

Welcome to the club.  Grey

[Stephen]

Amazon has same as Davids not sure price diff.

This comes with its own microfiber. 

Which is what you want to uchiko powder.

Nice to put a nice even coat of oil.

don't I say again don't use that little rubber on your sword its fine as a rust remover  for kitchen knives only.

Yoshihiro TSOIL 100% Pure Tsubaki Japanese Knife Maintenance Oil With Complimentary Sabitori Rust Eraser, 3.4 oz, Large, Golden Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ6SYSY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W5MJV47T74ZD37B2KN7X

[Stephen]

Had hoped to see nakago by now.

 

[sbf]

I have never tried goo gone to remove cosmoline, always used kerosene to remove it from firearms. The dried grease may be a good sign. Years ago I bought a couple of WW1 German Mauser rifles that had beautiful wood but terrible metal, looked like they were covered with rust. Tuned out it was dried grease. Carefully cleaned it  off with kerosene and rags (no abrasives) and underneath it was bright blue and polished receivers. Just like new. You may be in for a pleasant surprise. 
 

Steve

[sbf]

Also, whatever you use, let it soak the dried grease thoroughly before cleaning it off. Less rubbing is always better. Let the solvent do the work.

 

Steve

[sbf]

Finally, when doing this kind of work, take your time and go slowly. Patience is a virtue.

 

Steve

[Smee78]

Cosmoline is the devils work lol. I have been cleaning it off of mil surplus weapons for years, it is slow going what ever you use but really protects everything its on. You may find another surprise when you remove the sword from the sheath each time. Be careful with goof off, it can wipe paint off of cabinets, ask me how I know....

 

I cant wait to see the blade once you get the blade disassembled and taken apart, $400 sounds like a great find.