My First Tsuka...

[Jeff fromNYC]

After buying a blade which came in a shirasaya I decided to try my hand(s) at crafting a tsuka. Shout out to Cottontail et al for their instructive videos and advice.

 

I got some poplar and started carving away, then I bought a samegawa and fuchi kashira (if nothing else I am learning new words).  What I didn't know is that fushi kashira are much smaller in real life. I have now sanded the tsuka core down to where the fuchi and kashira fit and there is very little material remaining. Is this normal? The tang on my blade is 9mm wide and the inside diameter of the fuchi is 16mm, so there is just a thin layer of wood left. 

[ChrisW]

They made fuchi/kashira for three sizes essentially: tanto, wakizashi, and katana. Sounds like you got a size that is much too small.

[Jeff fromNYC]

They seem to be pretty average size from what I've seen. I have a 27" wakizashi. The fuchi is 38mm and the koshira is 35mm in length.

 

[Jeff fromNYC]

Some photos:

[Geraint]

Dear Jeff.

 

Where to start?   If nothing else then you are going to gain a whole new respect for the craftsmen that make koshirae by going through this process.   As with any craft doing it is not what counts, doing it well is a different ball game.

 

If your wakizashi is 27" nagasa then it's a katana, nagasa is from the kissaki or point, to the hamachi, the step on the back of the blade against which the habaki sits.  If your blade came in proper shirasaya then a simple comparison with the size of the tsuka would show up any issues, but the first photo seems to show an awful big aperture for the nakago!  

 

If you are going for a full same wrap then the difference between the size of the fuchi and the tsuka core needs to allow for the same, the shims that define the finished shape of the tsuka and the ito, and you are right, that sometimes makes the tsuka very thin.

 

Last point for now, the shitodome in your kashira are upside down at the moment, but I'm sure you knew that.

 

All the best.

 

[Jeff fromNYC]

Haha I didn't notice the upside down shitodome - thanks! (put it back in wrong)

 

Yes I am going to do a full same wrap. The nakago fits pretty snug and yes it gave me an appreciation of how good the masters are at basic chiseling...My efforts were a gouge-fest. 

[ROKUJURO]

Jeffrey,

do you know that there are basically four different forms of TSUKA?  And do you know that sanding is never done, but cutting (with KIRIDASHI and small KANNA) and filing?

1. HAICHI TSUKA, the most common, the MUNE-side almost straight, the HA-side slightly tapered, following the lines of the sword
2. RIKKO TSUKA, almost hour glass shaped
3. IMOGATA ("potatoe shape"), both sides straight
4. MOROZON, closely following the shape of the SAYA, mostly with TACHI or HANDACHI

This might help you a bit: https://weblog.tozando.com/Japanese-sword-how-to-know-if-a-tsuka-is-good-or-bad/

Making a good TSUKA is a question of safety. The NAKAGO should have a three-dimensional fit in the TSUKA, and it should hold the blade even without MEKUGI. The MEKUGI is only securing the tight fit, but it is not holding the blade!

Although a good TSUKA receives its properties by the competent combination of wood, SAME, and TSUKA-ITO, poplar might be too soft for a TSUKA. It may hold the blade for display purposes if you don't swing it, though. 

[Jeff fromNYC]

Hi thank you Jean. Yes I have read the articles you referenced. 

 

Poplar was used as it was recommended by various sources. And no, I am not going to swing it until the zombie apocalypse gets underway...

[Stephen]

Hey NY  i applaud your effort and go get them attitude. Fastest learning curve is just try doing it yourself, hang tough much to learn.

[Jeff fromNYC]

Thanks Stephen - already learned a lot from my 17 mistakes!

[MHC]

Hello Jeff,

 

Try this video, should be very helpful to you.

 

https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/diy-tsuka.html

 

Mark

 

PS. it does look like you made the Nagasa opening to match the opening in the Fuchi, if that is the case....you get to start over ;}

[ROKUJURO]

Mark,

did you mean to write NAKAGO?

(it does look like you made the Nagasa opening to match the opening in the Fuchi)

[Jeff fromNYC]

Thanks Mark - watched that one repeatedly.

 

Doesn't the opening in the fuchi have to match the opening in the nakago?

[Stephen]

Jeff what is a nakago... maybe study names a tad more

[Jeff fromNYC]

Stephen - see above. I was responding to Mark. I am referring to the opening in the tsuka.

[Brian]

Hole in the tsuka matches the nakago. Fuchi cutout just has to clear the tang...usually much wider and bigger.
Kashira also doesn't just sit over the end of the tsuka. There is narrowing and contouring for the knot etc.
You need to study a few real tsuka for a while, and read Craft of the Japanese Sword a few times. The shape of the tsuka is very, very important to the outcome.

[MHC]

Sorry Jean, yes my error, I was typing faster than thinking, should have written Nakago.

 

Mark

[Stephen]

22 hours ago, Jeff fromNYC said:

Stephen - see above. I was responding to Mark. I am referring to the opening in the tsuka.

have to match the opening in the nakago?

Is what you said .....no openings other than peg ana....

Just to mince more words... 😂

[Jeff fromNYC]

Yay I got emperor's node in right spot

[PNSSHOGUN]

Hi Jeff, the trick now is to make sure you have balanced the thickness of the Tsuka. Now that the Samegawa has been applied the Ito must still sit flush with the Fuchi & Kashira.

[1kinko]

Don’t forget the ito either.

[ROKUJURO]

Darrel,

that is what John wrote. In the photo, you can see that the TSUKA is too thick, and the TSUKA-ITO will not be level with FUCHI and KASHIRA. That will require a new start of the project. 
We call that learning by doing.....

[Jeff fromNYC]

Here are photos of the fuchi & kashira showing that the ito will sit pretty flush with the edge. The tsuka is slightly fat but I think it will be OK