Help identify my sword

[hudson1joe]

Please help me identify my sword that I believe is a Gunto that my Father brought home at the end of WWII from the Phillipines.

[ChrisW]

Without getting closer images of the blade itself, it will be difficult to tell if it is machine-made or traditionally-made or some between of the two. My suggested is to carefully knock the meguki (retaining) pin out and gently slide the handle and other parts off. Then take a few pictures of the full length of the blade tip to tip; taking a few extra pictures of the very tip and the nakago (tang). Writing on the nakago may very well help identify who made this blade or what way it was made in.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Joseph,

If you scroll down on this link:

https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/

to Care and Cleaning you'll learn how to safely remove and replace the handle and a lot more you should know.

Grey

[hudson1joe]

3 hours ago, ChrisW said:

Without getting closer images of the blade itself, it will be difficult to tell if it is machine-made or traditionally-made or some between of the two. My suggested is to carefully knock the meguki (retaining) pin out and gently slide the handle and other parts off. Then take a few pictures of the full length of the blade tip to tip; taking a few extra pictures of the very tip and the nakago (tang). Writing on the nakago may very well help identify who made this blade or what way it was made in.

Thank you for the help.  I will take the handle off tomorrow and post the results!

[hudson1joe]

2 hours ago, Grey Doffin said:

Hi Joseph,

If you scroll down on this link:

https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/

to Care and Cleaning you'll learn how to safely remove and replace the handle and a lot more you should know.

Grey

Thank you very much.  I will be careful when I take it apart.  I will have to see what I have to properly hold and clean it.  Any suggestions on where to purchase the correct items would be appreciated.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi Joseph,

You don't have to purchase anything.  Facial tissue or even toilet paper is fine for applying and removing oil.  Don't do anything to the sword's tang (the patinated section under the handle) and don't try to fix anything; well meaning amateurs can do serious damage.  Just follow the instructions in the care brochure and you'll be fine.

Grey

[Bruce Pennington]

In the meantime, you've got a WWII Japanese Officers Type 98.  The red/brown tassel is that of a Field grade officer (Maj-Col).

[hudson1joe]

On 4/19/2021 at 9:15 PM, Grey Doffin said:

Hi Joseph,

You don't have to purchase anything.  Facial tissue or even toilet paper is fine for applying and removing oil.  Don't do anything to the sword's tang (the patinated section under the handle) and don't try to fix anything; well meaning amateurs can do serious damage.  Just follow the instructions in the care brochure and you'll be fine.

Grey

Thanks again, I didn't get back to it yesterday.

On 4/19/2021 at 9:43 PM, Bruce Pennington said:

In the meantime, you've got a WWII Japanese Officers Type 98.  The red/brown tassel is that of a Field grade officer (Maj-Col).

My Dad always said it was from a Japanese Major.  Once I get it apart, etc then I want to get an honest/accurate appraisal done.  I probably should have it insured.

[hudson1joe]

On 4/19/2021 at 4:22 PM, ChrisW said:

Without getting closer images of the blade itself, it will be difficult to tell if it is machine-made or traditionally-made or some between of the two. My suggested is to carefully knock the meguki (retaining) pin out and gently slide the handle and other parts off. Then take a few pictures of the full length of the blade tip to tip; taking a few extra pictures of the very tip and the nakago (tang). Writing on the nakago may very well help identify who made this blade or what way it was made in.

Please see photos attached.

[hudson1joe]

On 4/19/2021 at 9:43 PM, Bruce Pennington said:

In the meantime, you've got a WWII Japanese Officers Type 98.  The red/brown tassel is that of a Field grade officer (Maj-Col).

Please see the photos in this thread.  I will take the full length and tip and upload them as well.  Thanks again for you help.

[Bruce Pennington]

Joseph,

The date is December 1943.  The seppa are marked 1107 (assembly numbers from the fittings shop).  Someone else will help with the smith name.  The steel almost looks stainless steel.  Are there any small stamps at the top of the nakago (tang)?

[ChrisW]

I think you've called it Bruce. Pretty sure that is anti-rust gunto steel.

[Bruce Pennington]

Can't wait for the real translators!  Maybe Akinobu is our guy, but the mei is poorly cut.

[ChrisW]

Yeah, the mei is pretty chippy and shallow-cut, not sure what to make of that.

[mdiddy]

Mei: Suke___ (not sure about the 2nd kanji, 'Hiro' or 'Sada' possibly)

 

Nengo: Showa Jyu Hachi Nen Jyu Ni Gatsu (December 1943)

[hudson1joe]

As far as I remember the blade is as my Dad got it in WWII and has never been cleaned.

[hudson1joe]

4 hours ago, Bruce Pennington said:

Joseph,

The date is December 1943.  The seppa are marked 1107 (assembly numbers from the fittings shop).  Someone else will help with the smith name.  The steel almost looks stainless steel.  Are there any small stamps at the top of the nakago (tang)?

I will have to look for more stamps I concentrated on what I took the photos of.  Thanks once again!  Will look tomorrow.

 

[hudson1joe]

4 hours ago, mdiddy said:

Mei: Suke___ (not sure about the 2nd kanji, 'Hiro' or 'Sada' possibly)

 

Nengo: Showa Jyu Hachi Nen Jyu Ni Gatsu (December 1943)

Thanks, I really appreciate the help.

[hudson1joe]

4 hours ago, Bruce Pennington said:

Can't wait for the real translators!  Maybe Akinobu is our guy, but the mei is poorly cut.

If you need any better photos just let me know!  Thanks

[hudson1joe]

On 4/19/2021 at 4:22 PM, ChrisW said:

Without getting closer images of the blade itself, it will be difficult to tell if it is machine-made or traditionally-made or some between of the two. My suggested is to carefully knock the meguki (retaining) pin out and gently slide the handle and other parts off. Then take a few pictures of the full length of the blade tip to tip; taking a few extra pictures of the very tip and the nakago (tang). Writing on the nakago may very well help identify who made this blade or what way it was made in.

 

There are no additional markings on the sides or edges.

[hudson1joe]

On 4/26/2021 at 9:12 PM, hudson1joe said:

As far as I remember the blade is as my Dad got it in WWII and has never been cleaned.

 

What is the best way to clean the blade or should I leave it alone until I can get it appraised?

[ChrisW]

Don't do anything to clean the blade except lightly oil it with Choji oil. The value will vary widely depending on if it is showato (machine made) or gendaito (traditionally made). I don't know enough about WWII smiths to make that judgement call. I would get the smith name verified first. An in-hand inspection by someone should help with that.

[hudson1joe]

15 hours ago, ChrisW said:

Don't do anything to clean the blade except lightly oil it with Choji oil. The value will vary widely depending on if it is showato (machine made) or gendaito (traditionally made). I don't know enough about WWII smiths to make that judgement call. I would get the smith name verified first. An in-hand inspection by someone should help with that.

 

Thanks for the help.  I need to find some Choji oil.  Could anyone the who reads Japanese be able to interpret or do I need to find a sword specialist?  I don't know of any in my area north of Orlando but there may be. 

[hudson1joe]

Just now, hudson1joe said:

 

Thanks for the help.  I need to find some Choji oil.  Could anyone the who reads Japanese be able to interpret or do I need to find a sword specialist?  I don't know of any in my area north of Orlando but there may be. 

 

I don't mind driving to get to the right person if there is one in Florida. A friend told me he knew a guy in the St Petersburg/Clearwater area, but he passed away a few years ago.

[PNSSHOGUN]

The tassel look to be red and brown which indicates ranks Major - Colonel.

[ChrisW]

Generally, any high quality mineral oil will do the job, but choji oil is traditional and is easily obtained via eBay or Amazon. Avoid anything that has abrasives in it.

[hudson1joe]

10 hours ago, PNSSHOGUN said:

The tassel look to be red and brown which indicates ranks Major - Colonel.

 

Yes it is red and brown.  My Dad always told me it came from a Major.  Thanks

[hudson1joe]

I had the inscriptions interpreted.  Next I need to find a good appraiser.

Sword Inscription.pdf

[Mark]

retail market value $1200-1500  (mediocre showato 700-1000 staff tassel 250-400), bear in mind that is from pictures

[Jwrussell]

On 4/29/2021 at 8:26 AM, hudson1joe said:

 

I don't mind driving to get to the right person if there is one in Florida. A friend told me he knew a guy in the St Petersburg/Clearwater area, but he passed away a few years ago.

 

Ray Singer (see dealer section) is on the other coast. There are a couple of people in Florida who probably have the experience, but Ray is the one that comes to mind first.