First post, Type 3 Gunto. Remove rust to expose mark?

[DavidB]

I've had this Type 3 Gunto a while. I always thought it was unmarked, but recently checked again with better lighting. Now I see some faint marks peeking out from behind the rust.

 

There isn't enough exposed to ask for a translation. Would it make sense to carefully clear away the worst of the rust buildup to expose the signature, or would it be better to just leave it alone (antler?)

 

Not sure that this is patina worth saving, but maybe there's nothing to be learned here anyway.

 

[BANGBANGSAN]

It's too rusty to tell the whole thing, first two kanji should be 昭和（Showa),the rest should year and month.What about the others side?It should have smith's name.

[DavidB]

So it's just the date on that side? Wouldn't want to mess with it just for the date. Limited possibilities there.

 

On the other side I can't see anything at all. Maybe a little shimmer of light suggesting an incised mark underneath the rust. It could just be the painted mark. Seems like the paint is lifted by the rust. Can't imagine exposing an incised mark, that may or may not exist, without obliterating the painted one. What's the significance of the paint?

[Bruce Pennington]

David, you didn’t mention the fittings. If they are fancy, wooden with lacquer finish, even double release buttons, then this blade may be something nice by a nice Smith. But if it’s standard fittings, then it’s likely just a war blade and it wouldn’t hurt to remove rust to read the writing. On the other hand, as a standard war blade, removing the rust wouldn’t reveal much. Likely 1943, 1944 1945, and a Seki Smith.

 

But as a war blade, no one would criticize you much for cleaning it enough to read the writing.

[Dave R]

If it can scrape off with a piece of antler, bone or horn, then it needs to come off. Rust and patina are not the same thing. An interesting article from an authoritative source here. Oil your nakago – The Cutting Edge

 

[DavidB]

10 hours ago, Bruce Pennington said:

David, you didn’t mention the fittings. If they are fancy, wooden with lacquer finish, even double release buttons...

Fittings are all typical Type 3 (contingency) Gunto. Steel saya, blackened iron tsuba and tsukagashira. The same has crumbled and the wrapping has disentregrated. So I intend to use this to try my hand at tsukamaki. It is currently disassembled 

 

As for the blade, it isn't fancy but is still in good condition. I don't know enough to tell if it is hand made or machine made. No obvious signs if machine work except for the precisely drilled holes. Hamon is there but straight and even. I have no delusions that this could be an old or significant blade. But it seems to me a good piece of craftsmanship for it's intended purpose as a wartime blade. I would like to reveal the makers name even if it's not an esteemed one.

 

2 hours ago, Dave R said:

If it can scrape off with a piece of antler, bone or horn, then it needs to come off.

 

Good to know I can remove the rust without destroying anything. It will likely remove the painted markings. Can anyone tell me the significance of those?

[Shugyosha]

They're assembly numbers so the blade can be matched to the fittings at the factory.