16k Posted June 16, 2020 Report Posted June 16, 2020 What makes it a katana and not a Tachi blade is not the length but the side on which the signature is placed. A Tachi is worn edge down and a katana, edge up. The signature (except for Hizen blades) is always placed on the side that faces out the bearer's leg. Therefore, a katana is signed on the opposite side of a Tachi. Those sides are called Ura and Omote. 3 Quote
Surfson Posted June 16, 2020 Report Posted June 16, 2020 Alex, you may be missing a seppa. These can be replaced, though finding one that matches yours may be a challenge, so they are often replaced in pairs. If it is very loose, then it could be another issue. 2 Quote
badkarma11 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Report Posted June 17, 2020 Thank you 16K. Thank you, Surfson. It is loose, but not awfully so. I will see what I can find. 1 Quote
Jacques Posted June 17, 2020 Report Posted June 17, 2020 Nobukuni was a relatively common name in nihontô world. It will be very difficult to point out which one signed that sword Quote
Surfson Posted June 17, 2020 Report Posted June 17, 2020 The best way to tell them apart is by the way they signed the Kuni character. If I am correct that there is pitch or tar on the tang, you will have to (gently) remove that pitch first. This may be difficult and should absolutely be done in a way that is non destructive to the tang or its patina. Quote
badkarma11 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Report Posted June 18, 2020 The best way to tell them apart is by the way they signed the Kuni character. If I am correct that there is pitch or tar on the tang, you will have to (gently) remove that pitch first. This may be difficult and should absolutely be done in a way that is non destructive to the tang or its patina. Any suggestions? Would 'Goo Gone' be OK? Quote
Surfson Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 Without knowing what is on the tang, I would start with acetone, as I have never had acetone do any damage to a blade, even one in full polish. If that doesn't work, I'm sure that there are stronger solvents that won't hurt the blade, but I am unsure what I would use next.... Quote
Surfson Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 If it is some sort of tar or pitch, this article might help. Among the solvents that they name, I might be inclined to try benzene or cyclohexane, but that's just me. Is the black material hard or soft? https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/ie50406a002 Quote
Surfson Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 I would avoid the acidic or basic. Before you do anything though, please let others weigh in. I'm sure there will be a healthy debate about it, and some may suggest that you let a polisher handle it, which wouldn't be a bad idea either. Quote
Surfson Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 Goo Gone appears to have citric acid in it, so probably not. Quote
Grey Doffin Posted June 20, 2020 Report Posted June 20, 2020 Hi Alex, You would be very smart if you didn't try to fix anything. Nothing about this sword needs to be dealt with now, and any future work should be done by someone with proper training. Well meaning amateurs have done serious damage to their swords and, since your sword may be important, you don't want to be one of them. Leave it alone, please. Grey ps. And for all of you who are quick to give do it yourself restoration advise to those who come here with a sword they know next to nothing about: please stop. 3 Quote
badkarma11 Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Posted June 20, 2020 Hi Alex, You would be very smart if you didn't try to fix anything. Nothing about this sword needs to be dealt with now, and any future work should be done by someone with proper training. Well meaning amateurs have done serious damage to their swords and, since your sword may be important, you don't want to be one of them. Leave it alone, please. Grey ps. And for all of you who are quick to give do it yourself restoration advise to those who come here with a sword they know next to nothing about: please stop. Thank you Grey, I won't do anything that I don't have to, other than clean it and oil it with the proper materials. I know my limitations. I appreciate the others that have weighed in and further revealing the markings on the tang would help in further identifying it. For the nonce, I'll leave it be. Quote
badkarma11 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Report Posted June 22, 2020 Could anyone suggest where I might get era appropriate seppa for this sword? Quote
badkarma11 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Posted June 27, 2020 I have taken a (hopefully) better picture of the mei: Also, the wrapping on the upper end of the scabbard had become detached (got it that way). Is there a craftsman who could properly re-attached it or offer me guidance on how I should do it myself? Also, a picture of the seppa etc: Quote
Dave R Posted June 28, 2020 Report Posted June 28, 2020 It's not about the length, it's about the mounts, and where it is signed. A Tachi is worn edge down, and a Katana edge up. Signatures are supposed to go on the "public" Omote side of the tang. But dont worry about it, at various times a blade would/could have different mounts and a lot of "Tachi" blades were worn in Katana style, Tachi have a special status and role, so this one seems to have been co-opted into a Tachi role for some reason by someone who did not have a Tachi blade. ..... Quote
Surfson Posted June 28, 2020 Report Posted June 28, 2020 Dave, that tachi that you show has leather wrap around the tsuka. I happen to have a sword that has a similar wrap. If you unwrap it, there is a standard ito wrapped tsuka. Do you know how common that it? I have only seen it on mine and on this image that you shared. PS, sorry to hijack the thread. Quote
Dave R Posted June 28, 2020 Report Posted June 28, 2020 Dave, that tachi that you show has leather wrap around the tsuka. I happen to have a sword that has a similar wrap. If you unwrap it, there is a standard ito wrapped tsuka. Do you know how common that it? I have only seen it on mine and on this image that you shared. PS, sorry to hijack the thread. This is one of those images I garnered for my own use ages back, and before I started recording sources. As I understand it though, this is an early style wrap, as in Muromachi and earlier, for swords used in war. What you have written is very interesting indeed, and indicates that it could be done to protect the Ito, in the manner of the cotton bandaging seen more often and later 1 Quote
Babu Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 Is that Nobu Kuni? 信國 I think there were at least 62 smiths used that art name so dating it will be critical to pinpoint the actual smith. Quote
Surfson Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 Based on the horimono, shape etc., I expect it is one of a very small number of Yamashiro Nobukunis that worked from Nambokucho through Oei and into early Muromachi. Only a handful of them really. Quote
Jussi Ekholm Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 I would also suggest the possibility of Chikushi-Nobukuni lineage. I have been recording works of Yamashiro Nobukuni lineage and (not counting gakumei) I have 40 signed tachi and just 2 signed katana. This is one of the two and as can be seen in paper NBTHK attributes it to middle Muromachi: https://web.archive.org/web/20160704171300/http:/www.seiyudo.com/xxta-040315.htm I haven't recorded works of Chikushi Nobukuni as the lineage is bit later than my own interests but I was able to find a signed katana with horimono in quick online search: https://www.e-sword.jp/katana/2010-1065.htm Like others have said before, it seems to be very interesting item. Luckily you have quite nice resources also fairly near you. I would suggest contacting NY Tōken Kai: http://www.ny-tokenkai.org/ Quote
Surfson Posted June 30, 2020 Report Posted June 30, 2020 Jussi, which lineage are Shikibu and Saemonojo in? I thought they were Yamashiro lineage, but maybe I'm wrong. Quote
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