Translation help needed on tsuba

[Skogsmann]

This sword was brought to Norway in 1939 and it is not signed. There are some characters on the tsuba. Any help with age, description etc will be greatly appreciated. Kristian Higley

[Shugyosha]

Hi Kristian,

 

It reads 越前住記内作 - Echizen ju Kinai saku. Made by Kinai (a school of tsuba makers) in the province of Echizen.

[Skogsmann]

Thank you very much for your help.  I googled and found that the tsuba is Jidai(era) : Edo period.

Were there blade makers, like the tsuba makers and then one would purchase parts from various suppliers and put them together?Does the grip and blade appear correct for said period? Any guesstimations re.  value? Up until now I have only owned  a Japanese WW2 Officers sword.

[Shugyosha]

Hi Kristian,

 

In pre-Edo times I think it was more common for a swordsmith to make tsuba either to go with a particular blade or as a side-line. This gave rise to a particular style of tsuba (Tosho) the style of which was reproduced in Edo times out of an appreciation of the aesthetic. Same is the case for armour makers (Katchu shi) and mirror makers (Kagami shi) and probably a couple of other types of metal workers who also did tsuba on the side or after whom a particular style of tsuba was named.

 

In Edo times I think it was usual to get a sword from a bladesmith and then for the richer customer either have fittings made to order as a matching set or get them "off the shelf" from specialist artisans. Some parts would have to be fitted to the blade no matter what (saya, habaki, tsuka) but other bits could be bought and adjusted to fit.

 

The grip looks like it has been re-wrapped recently, perhaps in the west as it doesn't look particularly well done (sorry). From the pictures, its shape (straightish, smallish point) the blade looks to me like it might have the shape common in around Kanbun (the era starting in 1661) so that potentially ties in with the age of the tsuba. Other fittings might be later as wood is more prone to wear and tear and decay and the blade might well have been given a new set during the 200 years before the samurai period came to an end.

 

As regards value, the biggest factor to influence that would be found under the handle - i.e. does it have a signature and has it been shortened? Also, how long is the cutting edge and did it come with any authentication papers?

 

If it doesn't have papers and you are able to post the dimensions and take some pictures of the tang, the bare blade without the habaki and some close-up pictures of the hamon and activity in the metal above the hamon you might get someone take a punt at putting a value on it or at least get some pointers towards other blades for sale that it can be compared to.

 

Welcome to the forum!

[Skogsmann]

Thank you very much for your informative reply.

No signature and does not appear to be shortened. No papers. It was given do a shipbroker in 1938 and he brought it back to Norway in 1939. According to the son, it has always been sitting on the fire place.. Some pictures attached. Full length is approx 93 cm (36 1/2 inches). I would hate to sell a valuable sword here in Norway if it could be sold abroad for a great deal more!

 

Kristian

[Skogsmann]

[Skogsmann]

Pics attached

[Shugyosha]

Hi Kristian,

 

It looks to me like you have an un-shortened, Shinto katana with a cutting edge of approximately 71.5 cm (over 70cm enhances value) and comes with fittings. It appears that the grain of the steel is quite finely forged which is fairly typical of swords from this era. These are good points.

 

On the other side of the coin, that it isn't signed makes it quite generic and is a detractor in swords made after 1600 and it has no authentication papers which might ascribe it to a more or less desirable school. Also, it looks like someone has had a bit of a go at cleaning it and clouded the hardened edge and grain of the steel in places, though that might be the lighting of the photograph, and there is some minor scuffing and a little rust on the tip. 

 

If you have a look at this website and put the words "mumei", "Shinto" and "katana" into the search facility at the top of the page you will get a list of similar swords and the prices they were listed for on this dealer's sale website. Bear in mind that this is the Japanese market (though this dealer's trade is directed towards westerners) and that the prices will be marked up from what you might get on a person to person sale and that you need to have a to at matching like for like so, in addition to the above search terms, you are looking for:

 

• a blade 70cm long or a little longer;
• not described as "suriage" or "machi okuri"; 
• with fittings;
• a blade described as "shinshinto" is probably in the same ball park price-wise to yours, all other things being equal.

Things that might lead you astray:

 

• Look out for koto blades (pre-Edo period) these are often unsigned but this factor doesn't have such an impact on these older blades;
• If the blade has a storage scabbard (shirasaya) in addition to fittings, this can add to the price;
• Authentication papers, particularly if issued by NBTHK or NTHK can also increase the price. 

https://www.aoijapan.net/

 

I hope that gives you something to go on. You can also try a general internet search or look around the dealers' sites listed in the links section at the top and also in the for sale section on this forum.

 

P.S. don't do anything to the blade beyond giving it a light oil and wipe over with a soft cloth and don't touch the tang at all: the patina is an indicator of age and cleaning it off will trash the sword's value.

[Skogsmann]

Thank you very much (again), for your informative and lengthy relpy. Very intereseting and I will do as instructed! Kristian

[Ken-Hawaii]

Kristian, a couple of points. First, remove everything from the blade, including the habaki, & post photos of both sides of the bare blade. The sugata is what indicates the jidai. You can't estimate age from the tosogu or fittings, as they were often refplaced, as John said.

 

Second, I see what looks like active rust on the tip, which needs to be addressed. But, please don't do anything until you read & understand https://to-ken.uk/resources/sword%20etiquette.html There are several posts on NMB that show how to ise a piece of antler, ivory, or an older (pure copper, U.S.) penny to remove rust.

 

Looking at how the hamon continues into the boshi makes me think that your blade may be older than Shinto, but sugata photos will confirm that.

 

Last, please go to your Profile, & add your first name, so we know how to address you on every post.