Niji mei Kanemoto info

[doomsdaymachine]

Thanks for the suggestions, Brian! I'm comfortable playing with hot water, but I'm not confident in my ability to only heat the necessary area to just the right temp. I think I'll leave this for a professional.

 

In the mean time, I've cleaned the blade and oiled it but I'm concerned about the water I poured on the habaki earlier. I know WD40 isn't great for swords, but I need to make sure there's no water trapped under the habaki. Thoughts?

[ChrisW]

Get some silica desiccant packets to do that work is my suggestion.

[Ganko]

Heat it with a hair dryer for a bit.

[Michaelr]

I had posted a blade here back in December with what appears to be the same signature. I was also told it is Kanemoto ( possibly Mino ). I attached a couple of pictures.

  MikeR

[doomsdaymachine]

Michael, same name, but the angular final stroke on the Moto is more rounded out on mine. That's the reason I figured mine wasn't one of the first few generations of Kanemoto (if shoshin)

 

I'm in touch with Ted now. Hopefully there will be a resolution on the horizon!

[leo]

Hi,

employ a goldsmith or someone very familiar with metalwork to remove the habaki.

 

The tin solder melts already at low temperatures and like any solder, flows toward the hottest spot. The blade has to be fixed in a vise and the habaki carefully heated and at the same time pushed towards the jiri. As soon as it becomes loose the heating must be stopped. When it is removed you will probably find remainders of the solder on the nakago and maybe the groove. Part of this can be removed by a glowing piece of metal or a soldering iron.

 

Unfortunately traces of the solder will always remain on the surface of the steel and can ony be removed by polish. Off course a new habaki will cover it.

 

Regards