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Posted

Gentlemen:

 

As a point of interest I know that the powder in the Uchiko is "slightly" abrasive so I wonder why it would not make more sense when renewing the oil ( choji or sewing machine) to use a solvent ( mild) like lighter fluid that would not cause ANY abrasion.

 

BB

Posted

Yeah... I like anhydrous isopropyl alcohol. I haven't used uchiko in ages.

 

The only thing I would worry about (besides human safety precautions) is water content, as the open grain of the steel can actually absorb and trap this water (as happens with polishing). It actually does this more easily when a small bit is mixed with isopropyl than a straight application of water. So the more anhydrous the better.

 

I don't think properly-applied uchiko is a bad way to go though. Arguments can be made both ways.

Posted

I've been told by more than one fully trained polisher that ethyl alcohol is the best to use. I have no idea why that is but I have always trusted their judgement on it. I've been using it for many years no with no ill effects.

Posted

Thats what I thought and the beauty of ethyl alcohol is as a dentist I can order 99.9% ethyl and after I clean the blade I can mix some with Grape juice to make a drink we used to call purple Jesus and it is quite a rush! :freak:

 

Thanks for the input - the process may not be as soothing as uchiko until after but probably safer on the nihonto.

Posted
Thats what I thought and the beauty of ethyl alcohol is as a dentist I can order 99.9% ethyl and after I clean the blade I can mix some with Grape juice to make a drink we used to call purple Jesus and it is quite a rush! :freak:

 

Now that's what I call "getting religion"! Careful though, Pete'll put the penguin on ya in a heartbeat. :lol:

 

The aforementioned alcohols work well. I'd also like to add that the Microdear Lens cloths are very very effective at removing oil without alcohol or uchiko and will not harm the blade. Many collectors have taken to these cloths. They're available here which is where I buy them. They're a bit pricey initially, but they are washable and completely reusable. I take a few with me to the shows both to use as fukusa and for cleaning. They are also excellent for handling fittings.

 

Properly and judiciously used, uchiko isn't all bad as long as it's good stuff and not the horid stuff that comes with a Chinese factory sword. On the other hand, uchiko can and will have a long term effect. Looking at many of the old pictures of Kokuho, Jubi, Tokuju, etc., one can see how chalky and hazy the finish gets over time. Given it's a long time, but if one can preserve the polish, then so be it. Now on the other other hand, uchiko does have a lightly abrasive character that will help abate very tiny specks of rust that may begin to form over time.

 

I think that the middle of the road is probably the best approach. Using alcohol and/or the microdear cloths for the majority of maintainance, with infrequent application of good uchiko is a good balance to preserving the blade *and* the polish as much as possible.

This thread is quite old. Please consider starting a new thread rather than reviving this one, unless your post is really relevant and adds to the topic..

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