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Posted

Hello experts here, how often do u put Choji oil on ur sword to keep it in gd status?

 

I recently found that there are some rust spots on my swords, are there ways to remove them? Or if u have any good websites or methods to share it will be much helpful!

Posted

It depends on the humidity in your area. Is it near the ocean, the salt could be a problem. At the moment i look around 4 - 6 month to oil my swords newly but i think they would not need it, because i live in very dry region and i have controlled air in the house with very low humidity. Did you have your swords in a tansu? 

 

You can only try uchiko by cleaning to remove some "rust" spots but normaly you can not remove it destroying the polish.

 

Maybe you have pictures from the spots on the blade?

  • Like 1
Posted

There is pinned FAQ's regarding oiling and maintenance, but there are variations depending on where you live. I live in southern Florida and are playing it safe by keeping a thin layer of oil on in shirasaya.

 

Regarding the rust it depends on photos, until those are up try get your hands on some bone or antlers for preparation  :glee:

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Posted

If the rust is very new, microfibre and isopropyl/denatured alcohol (99.5% or higher) can sometimes get rid of it with no risk to the polish.

yes, these are newly made rusts, I think because my place is too humid and because the swords are of old polish...I’ll try microfibre and isoprpy alchohol first, thx!

Posted

Hi Fung, I maintain (clean, oil) my blades at the turn of each new season, that is, four times a year. When ever I look at a blade, I clean and re oil it as well. Those rust spots of yours can come your breath.  

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Posted

In high humidity areas, it is good to clean and reoil swords frequently; also too much oil can attract moisture and promote rusting (strange but true).

  • Like 2
Posted

Steve is right. We both live in high-humidity places, & need to be sure that there is only a fine, smooth coating of choji oil on our blades (except the nakago), rather than dripping amounts.

  • Like 1
Posted

In high humidity areas, it is good to clean and reoil swords frequently; also too much oil can attract moisture and promote rusting (strange but true).

Perhaps I poured too much oil to my sword before....shall I erase the excess oil after putting choisi oil? And if the shirasaya absorbs too much oil, will it promote rust on the blade too?

Posted

Another possibility is that it is from small spots of spit.  Never talk while holding a blade, as very fine drops of spit will land on the blade.  They are essentially salt water and will catalyze rust very well. 

  • Like 1
Posted

The SHIRASAYA is not supposed to come into contact with oil! If the wood sucks up oil, it cannot protect the blade against humidity. Before resheathing, an excess of oil on the blade should be wiped off with YOSHINO GAMI or with a microfiber fabric. A small amount of oil will remain in the micro structures of the HADA.   


 

Perhaps I poured too much oil to my sword before....shall I erase the excess oil after putting CHOJI oil? And if the shirasaya absorbs too much oil, will it promote rust on the blade too?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Let us know how it goes with the alcohol and microfiber please.

Greg

I tried microfibres with 99% alcohol today to remove the rusts. It works but still scars remaining....

 

I tried to place a very thin layer of Choji oil on blades after the alcohol cleaning, is it a good way of maintaining sword? Is 99% alcohol also useful as a substitute of Choji oil normally?

  • Like 1
Posted

No, alcohol is a solvent and removes oil residues. Alcohol (or isopropylic alcohol or acetone or ether) is only used to clean a surface from oil or grease. CHOJI 'oil' is applied to form a very thin layer to keep oxygen from attacking the steel (= rust = iron oxide). Not all oils can do this, and some natural oils even polymerize and become more solid like a wax after a while. If you use CHOJI oil, it is the most basic stuff you can use, and in terms of performance, modern lubricants and protective chemicals might even be better in some respect.

However, you don't want a visible layer of whatever on your blade, and CHOJI 'oil' (which consists mainly of low viscosity paraffine which is not an oil but a liquid hydrocarbon derivate) can be succesfully used if you apply and remove it regularly.  

In the end, rust (or rust 'scars'/pitting) cannot be removed with alcohol, but in some cases, UCHIKO works to an extent.  

  • Like 3

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