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Posted

Im guessing you think the nakago is not O-suriage Franco?, or you thinking re-tempered or something ?

 

Or, on closer inspection, you think the hamon and blade are not original length. If so, I never seen an hamon that bright and with that style end so swiftly, without a trace.

Posted

Im guessing you think the nakago is not O-suriage Franco?, or you thinking re-tempered or something ?

 

Or, on closer inspection, you think the hamon and blade are not original length. If so, I never seen an hamon that bright and with that style end so swiftly, without a trace.

I just received what looks to be an o-suriage Wakizashi and I thought the same thing as you but upon closer inspection there is actually a hamon down the nakago it is just really faint and almost had disapeared but after careful looking (and looking and looking), I can see the faintest hamon

Posted

Franco/Dwain, yes i guess much easier to see in hand.

 

Usually, the first thing i look for on O-suriage blades is signs of the hamon running down past the hamachi. Sometimes easy to see, sometimes difficult to see as it can vanish with the heat during the process.

 

The sword above stood out. If you roughly follow the line of the hamon then i see no reason why it should end where it ends (if blade shortened), looks intended to taper off past the Hamachi. It just don't vanish away like I would normally expect on an O-suriage blade.

 

Heres an example of what I would normally expect, don't think Ray will mind. http://swordsofjapan.com/project/shimada-naginatanaoshi/

 

Anyways, just thinking out loud, appreciate your input.

 

Ps Dwain, but back in the day I would have gone for something different, too much hamon makes a sword brittle, but that's another topic.

  • Like 1
Posted

That is a VERY wide hamon, he's right about it being brittle..  Doesn't matter too much today as these are all art swords. But if it were used in its current condition back in the day, I can imagine a catastrophic failure occurring simply because there's not enough pearlite steel to support the hard martensite edge.

Posted

I thought the same thing Steve. Difficult as not in hand.

 

You can look at hundreds of images of blades, then something grabs your attention for one reason or another.

 

goes with the hobby, i suppose

  • Like 1
Posted

Good article; may i suggest that a sword that was overly hard might cut well but fail when the mune was used due to the hard steel being resistant to failure when in tension, as in normal cutting, but fail in compression, as in using the mune to strike.

  • Like 1
Posted

I might guess that sword is just suriage with lower ana being the original one and sword originally a bit over 60 cm in length. I just feel that bit over 60 cm's would fit the late 1400's early 1500's. However it is of course totally possible that sword was over 70 cm originally and original ana is lost due to shortening.

This thread is quite old. Please consider starting a new thread rather than reviving this one, unless your post is really relevant and adds to the topic..

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