Sword Images now posted

[anne_brewer]

Stephen, Jacques, Sencho, and Brian,

 

As you requested, I've added images of the blade of grandfather's sword. Am curious what you think. Hope it provides some fun discussion for you all.

http://web.mac.com/anne_brewer/Grandfat ... Blade.html

 

If you need additional images, please PM me and I will add them to the site asap. And, tomorrow I will be taking some better pics of the boshi for Ford - and will have them posted mush faster than this batch.

 

I apologize that it took so long. Life, work and the photo learning curve conspired against me. :?

 

Best regards, Anne

[Stephen]

Nice pix Anne, i dont think i could pull that off with the yard rule, one thing in your kantei you have suguha for the hamon, suguha is a flat line, yours looks to be midare bellowing clouds. Ol dad had a good eye for quality, do you plan to have the ito repaired?

[anne_brewer]

Steve,

 

Thank you for the input. :D Could you help me out a little here and translate into English what you were saying about the kantei bone being connected to the suguha on the hamon? Seriously, I am looking at a labeled picture of the parts of the Japanese sword, but I am having trouble finding the words you mention. I understand hamon but ...

 

Thank you

 

Anne

[Grey Doffin]

1st Hisamichi worked in Kanbun (1661) and later generations weren't far behind. Isn't the sori on this blade awful strong for Kanbun Shinto (isn't the curvature exaggerated for a time period that produced mainly nearly straight blades)? Any thoughts?

Grey

[anne_brewer]

By the way, on the website,

if you double click on an image it starts the slideshow allowing you to see a larger version of the image. I

 

f you still want a larger version of a particular image you are viewing, click download and it will download the image to your computer. All the images are sized at a minimum of 8" by whatever, so you can zoom them on your computer.

 

Regarding the curvature of the sword, Sotheby's called it a straight blade. Could it be the angle from which my pics were taken? Will go through the other images and see if there is a better one.

 

Anne

[Gabriel L]

Steve, ...Could you help me out a little here and translate into English what you were saying about the kantei bone being connected to the suguha on the hamon?

I'm not Steve, but:

kantei = appraisal

suguba (suguha) = straight line hamon

midare = irregular hamon

So Steve is just saying that the details posted on your site could be more accurate as the hamon isn't really suguba, it's more midare.

 

Very nice looking sword. I second Steve's other question, which was if you had any plans to get the handle re-wrapped. It's among the least expensive restoration jobs available in this field and will make a huge difference in appearance and durability (the current wrap is not traditional).

[Jacques D.]

hi,

 

1st Hisamichi worked in Kanbun (1661) and later generations weren't far behind. Isn't the sori on this blade awful strong for Kanbun Shinto (isn't the curvature exaggerated for a time period that produced mainly nearly straight blades)? Any thoughts?

Grey

 

 

Keicho shinto style was not scarce in Mishina school.

[Ford Hallam]

Hi Grey,

 

I also noticed the strong sori. The sori on the sword that I posted the oshigata of is 16.7mm so I'd imagine that the Mishina group was not always representative of the classic Kanbun Shinto sori, not that 16mm is particularly deep.

 

Anne,

would it be possible to measure the sori on your sword? This is the distance from centre of the curve of the blade to an imaginary line drawn from the tip to mune machi, the notch at the start of the tang.

 

regards, Ford

[Stephen]

Anne here are some pix to help out with the new words in your life

 

first is the sori or zori measure, the deepest point of the line from the kissaki to munemachi. (from John Yumoto's The Samurai Sword)

 

Basic Hamons (from The Connoisseur's book of Japanese swords)

 

also types of hada (grain pattern) so you can look to see what you have.

(from Johns)

not to start anything a light coat of oil on the nakago(i use choji from Lohman) keeps the red rust (bad rust) away and lets the dark patina do its job (good rust). hope this dont start alot of

[anne_brewer]

All,

 

Thank you for all the help and info. The definitions and images are awesome.

 

Have posted a few new images on the both the "Blade" and "Boshi & Mune" pages. Ford, here, also, are the mune images you requested.

 

http://web.mac.com/anne_brewer/Grandfathers_Sword

 

Digging deep into the recesses of my cluttered mind, I seem to recall that the gentleman assessing the sword did not wipe off the vaseline - he seemed to "know" what it all was. Perhaps, he didn't know as much as he thought. This may account for the differences between what I was told and what we are discussing here. As far as I am concerned, the assessment on this board is the best one the sword has had to date, under my care. I will update my site with the information here once the open issues are resolved.

 

Also, regarding the rewrapping, I agree it is appropriate. I'm a little curious of what the current wrapping may be the result.... Also, I am interested in your thoughts on Ford's question on the other board as to what would be the most appropriate next steps in caring for the sword. I would like it to be in good condition but am concerned about spending more than it is worth on it. I look to you all for wisdom and guidance.

 

Ford, I measured the sori along with some others mentioned on pg 52 of Connoisseur's:

 

Nakago = 9.125 inches

Nagasa = 28.1875 inches

Sori = 1.094 inches or 2.8 cm

Kasane = 0.7 cm

Mihaba = 3.55 cm

Kissaki = 3.5 cm

back edge of blade is, I think, lori-mune with a gentle oroshi

 

Hope this all helps!

 

I appreciate everyone's patience with my lack of language skills. With your help and generosity I am improving - slow but sure.

 

Anne

[Ford Hallam]

Hi Anne,

 

thanks for the additional info. That really is quite a deep sori, and as Grey pointed out, seemingly uncharacteristic of the period. To be honest I don't know what to to make of that measurement , everything else seems to appear to be as one would expect. The mei certainly looks correct to me so ultimately I would suggest the decision lies in the hands of an experienced appraiser/polisher, quite literally; in hand.

 

As for what to do next with it, I feel confidant that everyone here will agree that the best course of action would be to send it to me for safe keeping, in perpetua : ...I'll even send you photo's each year on it's birthday, so you can rest assure it's being cared for in a loving home

 

regards, Ford

[Stephen]

Anne

 

to my eye the sori is deeper than one inch. in your new pix (sword sori) if you place the yard stick on top instead of under it(next to the cutting edge) from tip to munemachi then measure from the deepest point between the two. id think it would be closer to two inches.

 

To care for it a uchiko-ing and oil once a month would be fine, i'd get a hold of David McDonald and ask what it would be for a rewrapped and if he wants the blade. I know he has wood or steel nakago's he uses to wrap the tsuka, anyway he'll let you know. why it was unwrapped is hard to say. i've seen ppl do that to take the handle off not knowing it just needed the peg removed.

 

btw the two new boshi shots fan freakingtastic. boshi may be flame or kaen. I also like the shot of the blade sans every thing just a beaut.

[anne_brewer]

Stephen et al,

 

Again, thank you for the continued thoughts and research. Also, thanks for the compliments on the mentioned pics. The photography is a bugger-bear. Just read another post where there was a suggestion about photographing a sword through a western window with late afternoon light. What do you think? Also, am wondering if it would be helpful to others to have a section sharing just sword+furniture tips. As a newbee, this would be oh so helpful and save OH SO MUCH time.

 

A thought re the hamon, have been looks at Connoisseur's pg. 269. Am wondering if the hamon was done by Hisamachi using Mino tradition ("features identical to Iga no Kami Kinmichi 1." Have been tracing this path through the book and now my head is spinning (trying to digest and connect all the unfamiliar terms). -man!

 

Any help from you big brains on this? Following this path, would this help us better understand the sori? Stephen, I will do the measurement you mention above later today and get back to you. Again, thanks for the photo compliments.

 

Ford, anything is possible.

 

Regarding, restoration, would it make sense to send it to one place to have it rewrapped, polished, etc? Is there a place in the US/Canada that is qualified? Or would Japan be best? Have sword, willing to travel.

 

Need to get back to nanake practice. When my hand starts to hurt (a bit of the old arthritis) will be back on the sword research. Until, later,

 

Anne

[Ford Hallam]

Hey, Stephen...2.8 cm is more than an inch. An Inch is about 2.5cm . It still surprises me that you colonials insist on sticking with the Imperial measures

 

Anne, I'll send you my postal address via pm ...and may I say, an excellent and wise decision on your part.

[Bobcat]

The photography is a bugger-bear. Just read another post where there was a suggestion about photographing a sword through a western window with late afternoon light. What do you think?

 

I put my sword near a window in order to get better light for photographs. I ended up with nice reflections of the window.

[Stephen]

Anne

 

I did not know you were considering full restoration...if so id go here

http://www.bushidojapaneseswords.com/swordpolish.htm

he also could get it papered for you but that would take the total to well over 4000.00

and yes for each page opend in Nihonto means ten more have to come.

 

Ford when your right your right but pull out your tape measure to 2.8, have to think the sori is deeper. zori about not reading it closer.

[anne_brewer]

Bob, :lol: . As I mentioned, sword photography is a bugger-bear. Actually, any reflective surface is a challenge. If I come up with a decent strategy, will let you know.

 

Stephen et al,

Is the sword worth a full restoration? Does anyone have any educated guesses about its value?

[Jacques D.]

Hi,

 

Anne,

 

Shodai Hisamichi is a good smith (rated josaku), it would be wrong keeping that blade in its present condition. But saying if it's worthy to restore this blade? only a good polisher with the blade in hands can say it.

[Stephen]

Is the sword worth a full restoration?

Yes IMHO

 

but like all that have came before me, it needs so be in hand by the likes of Bob Benson or Big Mo, you got the links above in links page and the one i posted.

[Gabriel L]

Since the window light was probably my (evidently unhelpful ) comment, I'll try to explain a bit further. Very basically, the optical qualities of the Japanese sword are as follows:

 

• 1. Mune and shinogi-ji (spine and upper ridge area): burnished, so reflects environment very directly (either dark or bright depending on environment).
  2. Ji (surface between shinogi and hamon): a combination of directly reflected light (due to steel itself and polishing method) with elements that diffuse light (such as parts of the hada). So the hada will be brighter than a reflected dark background, or disappear into a too-bright reflected background.
  3. Hamon (hard white edge steel): very diffuse light almost regardless of angle of blade, so shows up light in most cases.
  

 

The ideal then is directional (not diffuse) illumination from an angle, which will light up only those aspects that diffuse light - the hada, hamon, and various other effects - but with the blade angled so as to only directly reflect the mostly-dark environment. This will maximize contrast, which (one hopes) may also provide some measure of clarity.

 

Thus my suggestion of late afternoon window light, ideally with the interior of the room very dark and the light very direct but not extremely strong. Then the trick is to angle the blade precisely so that everything you want is illuminated, but the reflection is only of the dark room, and not the window or the sun. Proper exposure is obviously important here.

 

This is of course a primitive and limited technique, which is more of a tip to achieve contrast than anything else. Anne, your photos are already reaching at least the level that this technique would be able to obtain, so I don't know how useful it would be to try.

 

Just to put my money where my mouth is, though, here are several photos I took just now to illustrate the sort of (very basic) results possible. These are pretty bad -- I haven't properly cleaned the blade, the sun was still much too strong at that hour, the perspective is distorted by my wide angle lens, the camera/hand is reflected, yadda yadda yadda - but it's not totally obscure, I think.

 

PS - by way of disclaimer, I am not really any better at this than anyone here. I just know the frustration of photographing this stuff firsthand and am trying to give advice; if it doesn't work for you, don't listen to me!

[Jean]

Good pictures Gabriel and a simple way to get it.

 

The main problem is when you have longer swords (Wak, katana ...)

 

The easiest way is to scan the blade in three parts, reassemble with photoshop the different parts adjusting the light. You can get something as shown in Ricecracker website.

 

and then the top, Darcy's pictures.

 

I won't disclose his technique as he has withdrawn his article from his website. (though I keep it preciously in a file )

[anne_brewer]

Gabrial, Jean, et al,

 

Thank you for the photo technique ideas. Will employ them the next time I update the photos.

 

Back to the sword, itself, any suggestions where I could find more research that would help me understand this sword? BTW, I updated the info on the sword page so it should be more accurate now. Also posted all the new measurements there as well. I've been googling to try to find more details on Hisamichi's swords. If there is a pattern of change in the sori's as time moved forward. Also, given the hamon is misuke and influenced by Mino tradition, I am wondering (excuse me if this sounds terribly ignorant) if the blade shape is influenced by Mino as well. Page 265 of Connoisseur's, bottom of the page, talks about the hamon. Am still reading to see what I can find about variations in sword shape.

 

Bottom line, any ideas where I could find more info on this smith?

 

Thank you for all your time and guidance. You all have made this research a fun experience - when it could have been so frustrating. So glad I found your site. So glad you all are here sharing your wisdom.

 

Anne

[Grey Doffin]

About the sori:

Kanbun Shinto swords have a very shallow curvature; they aren't straight but not far off. This is what is to be expected on a Hisamichi. I can think of 3 possible explanations for your sword's atypical curvature.

1. Hisamichi, for whatever reason, decided to make it this way.

2. The blade actually dates from a different period and a false signature was added, either as an attribution or forgery.

3. The sword is retempered. Fires happened frequently in Japanese history. If a sword were caught in a fire it would lose it's hamon. The sword could then be tempered again, either to make it into a usable weapon or to sell to the unsuspecting. One of the signs of retempering is an exaggerated sori.

Option 1 is OK; 2 & 3 are not.

Before you commit to the price of restoration you need to know more. Someone who can make the call has to see the sword in hand.

Grey

[anne_brewer]

I hope it is #1. Anyone closer to north texas than the gentleman in Hawaii I could trust to verify authenticity?

 

thanx!

 

Anne

[Jacques D.]

Hi,

 

Hisamichi worked in Kanbun style but also in Keicho style, this one reminds the old Kamakura and Nanbokucho suriage blade, it has a peculiar sugata with a deep sori.

To my eyes, the mei looks genuine the sugata looks keisho and the hamon midareba matches perfectly, the boshi too.

 

Of course this is only an opinion from an amateur with a little knowledge and based on photograph.

 

ps; If it is possible to see clearly the start of the hamon, that could be helpful.

[Stephen]

I could trust to verify authenticity?

 

One in the Twin cities Andy Qurit, Fred Wiessberg or( Hagiyama )of NCJSC, he runs SF Token kai, and a few others can give you there take on it,but to Verify authenticity it needs to go to shinsa. look in the links for NBTHK.