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Posted

I think it's Tosho with no Ko. Good enough. Mid Muromachi, ok. Anyway, it's a real tsuba for a real weapon, not an Edo period show off. I think that everyone agree with that.

Thanks for a good discussion. 

Serge

Posted

I think it's Tosho with no Ko. Good enough. Mid Muromachi, ok. Anyway, it's a real tsuba for a real weapon, not an Edo period show off.

I think that KO usually denotes pre Edo production.  They could be modern reproductions of Ko Tosho in my honest opinion.

Posted

One thing that crossed my mind there Henry, again just a thought.

 

If someone went to the trouble of creating a modern tsuba to pass as a Ko Tosho, and took so much effort into making the patina look old, size and thickness, patina and remnant lacquer.

 

Just wondering why they would not choose a textbook simple sukashi?, like you would see in Sasano,s, and in the case of the dragonfly tsuba, make the sukashi lines look older.

 

Maybe I look too much into this. :laughing:

Posted

Alex,

a good SUKASHI TSUBA is a lot of work, while forging a TÔSHÔ plate is relatively easy, even when you forge it down to plausible dimensions. A SUKASHI TSUBA presents a lot of possibilities for the identificatioin of the tools and work used for its manufacture, so a copy is more easily detected.. Think also of TEKKOTSU which is still a secret not only to most forgers, but also to collectors.

Patination is more a question of knowledge and patience than of hard work. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Jean,

 

When I say "so much effort", I could have worded that better.

 

What I should have said is, if someone wanted to create a reproduction or fake (to fool others) of a Ko-Tosho, I think maybe there would be better choices for the sukashi design.

 

Just thoughts.

 

Some helpful hints in this thread, cheers

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