Any Updates On Breakfree Clp/collector Usage On Nihonto?

[ken kata]

Hello Guys,

Alton , again..

1)  I was looking around for members who use Safariland's Breakfree CLP and/or Collector on their swords.

 

I was searching and found this post  from 2014/ 2015.

Link:

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/14894-choice-between-these-two-choji-oil/page-2?hl=+break +free

 

The post was a few years old ( 2014/23015) , so, maybe some member's have new news , or long term (only two years for that post  ) observations

on their blades, like "staining/discoloring".

 

2)  One other thought that went through my mind...

Ken Goldstein mentioned that those acids ( that might have been used to enhance Hamons) , usually turn to salts and water.

Those residues (The Salts) left behind, that might have "seeped" into the Blade,...

Do you guys  think the Breakfree products would help "neutralize" the residue contaminants  left behind by the acids?

 

3)   Is this a case where "new tech" stuff ,have  an improvement on old traditional ways/knowledge?

or, is it , " The old ways was already proven through out time and history".

or maybe, " I am the warrior ,in whom, the old ways have joined the new".. - From the movie , " The Last Samurai" ( the inscription on the new Blade )

 

Please post your opinions and thoughts about preservatives on Nihonto.

Thank You for viewing..

Alton , again

 

 

 

 

 

[Brian]

CLP is pretty good...especially the Breakfree CO (Collector)

Rem Oil is highly regarded.
But of course the usual thin mineral oil as discussed everywhere on the forum works just fine. Don't overthink it.

[vajo]

EEZOX is 100% trichlorethylene. This is a very dangrous chemical substance. It is forbidden in the EU Union in 2016 after scientist have found out that Trichlorethylene causes parkinson. Trichlorethylene is also highly carcinogenic. The good things are not very healthy. 

 

Only for info when you handle this.

 

Btw.

I was asking Tsuruta San what AOI Art uses now for protection. He wrote they uses now only camellia oil by Kurobara Brand.

http://www.environmentalgreenproducts.com/store/kurobara-brand-camellia-oil-pr-16353.html

 

In his opinion every oil works well as long as it keep the blade in good conditions.

 

I think i will go with camellia oil further and throw the synthetics away.

[Jamie]

I prefer choji to everything else. It and camellia have been used forever. So.......

[Ken-Hawaii]

The main reason I prefer mineral oil is that it doesn't contain any biologic material (other than a drop or two of clove oil), & is essentially inert when it comes to degradation. But this has been covered at length elsewhere.

[Alex A]

I use a fine film of high viscosity gun oil, wont drip all over inside of saya and hopefully help to protect against "in and out" saya scuffs. I find some oil too thin and forms droplets.

 

Horses for courses.

[Dave R]

 I use the high grade   camellia oil as well, proven efficacy  for one reason. The other is that mineral oils are not good for wood, (remember the saya) whereas vegetable oils like camellia at the least do no harm, and may even benefit it. It has also been commented on just how well and evenly the oil  I use (Kurobara) covers the blade without drips or gaps.

[Stephen]

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/camelliaoil100ml.aspx

[Dave R]

https://www.fine-tools.com/pflege.html Is where I got mine from. No mention of paraffin oil in the mix there, though they do make the point that it is not edible. Ah well, we live and learn! 

[vajo]

Dave i use also Kurobara. It is a fine oil. Good too for wood furniture.