Blade photos of sword with paint on shirasaya (Updated pics)

[Harvey]

One of you seemed anxious to see the blade. I have no idea what angles to shoot or what is important. One thing is certain, this sword is much nicer then these photos depict.

 

The temper line goes all the way to the tip and bends around to the back of the blade. There is also what appears to be temper in areas of the back of the blade. Another odd thing is what appears to be an extra, but faint, wavy temper line up above the main temper line. I've tried to show it in a few of these shots. Sorry to post so many but again, I don't know what's important to capture.

 

I tried the edge of the counter trick to remove the handle but no luck. Paint stripper worked great on the rest of the scabbard and it looks pretty nice.

[Harvey]

Had trouble posting so here are more.

[Harvey]

And more...

[Harvey]

Maybe the last..

[Harvey]

Sorry, two more shots.

[Harvey]

The black spots that show up in my photos do not appear to be voids, that go down into the core, but really look like something on the surface that could be easily removed. Sorry for the bad photos. If I could remove the handle a few tang shots would probably tell more than all these put together.

 

Any ideas as to period or maker?

[Stephen]

we dont have a true sugata pix, so far Mino, shinto. If you have the peg out of ivory hole, try what Grey suggested to remove the tsuka, 90% sure it will be signed.

[Harvey]

I've already tried what was suggested but that handle is really tight. I'll try again today with something other than my wife's kitchen counter.

 

Mino, Shinto? What is the time frame for this?

[Stephen]

http://www.Japanese-swords.com/pages/new.htm

 

scroll down to Nakago Nuki, you can make something to this effect at home on the cheap. 1 x 2 3" long small hammr. wrap the blade with a cloth to make sure you dont cut yourself or hit the blade ...lay the block flat on the blade light taps on each side of the tsuka...just take your time and be safe.

 

Mino is the school and i said shito as it covers alot of time and my butt

[dkirkpatrick]

Harvey, for not being sure about how to take pictures I must say you did a very nice job. I concur with Stephen on the Mino. Looks to be a very nice sword and again nice job with the pics, great sword porn...I just may go have a cigarette!

 

Doug

[Mark Green]

Hiya Harvey,

Three for Mino, Shinto. Your pics are great!!!. I'll bet this nice sword would look great in new polish. Great get.

Mark G

[pcfarrar]

A shinto Kanemoto perhaps?

[Harvey]

Sorry about a triple post for one piece but I couldn't find a way to update the title of the thread.

 

I finally removed the tang. Turns out the vet or his kids must have glued the handle together and had glue in the hole for the tang, as it was cemeted firmly in place and could be removed only by splitting the handle along its seam. No wonder I couldn't get the sword to come loose!

 

Anyway, good news and bad. The good news is I got it off. The bad news is that I see no marks of any kind. I might could clean it some and see a mark but I'd probably hurt something in the process. I think it's unmarked, unless the little thing that looks like a US flag on both sides of the shiny part is a mark. I tried to capture file marks, but they are about non-existent along most of the tang. What are there appear to be simply slanting across the tang, back to edge, with no change of direction.

 

What can you guys tell me about this sword? About when was it made? What cost to restore (polish) versus value when done? What would it cost for a new-made full dress scabbard?

 

Harvey

[Harvey]

second wave

[Harvey]

Final wave

[Brian]

Merged the 2 topics (this new forum software does have its advantages ) and updated the topic title. You can always edit your own original post title in the first post to update it.

The fact that it isn't signed isn't a train smash. Nice sword and a good find. Lots of posts about whether to polish or not. Seldom will it increase the price as much as the polish price, but sometimes it is worth it if you really want to appreciate it. I would think a professional polish would be upwards of $2500 on this one.

 

Brian

[Stephen]

450 for a new top of the line shirasaya, if you go the polish route new habaki as well, id have a silver one done to go with shinto, about the same in cost. or you might get away with sliver foil to the one thats on it. did the tsuka split well or was it trashed? value now around 2500 for the right buyer. fig it some where in the range of three hundred years old. maybe more. A very nice mino blade, worth the polish i say but your going to get alot more saying no its not. lucky find.

[Harvey]

Stephen,

 

Thanks for the information. The tsuka split well. I removed the old glue that was in the recess for the tang and have glued it back together. It will be clamped for 4 days while I'm out of town.

 

The new shirasaya sounds good (and reasonable) but I may stick with this one since it has some age to it and that's how it came here from WWII. If I had a polish done I'd buy a new saya to preserve the blade.

 

I can already see the flak coming for what I'm about to write......Several of the posts I've read here mention finger stones. Bearing in mind that I have considerable skill repairing US CW swords and their blades (I know it's not the same), how much damage would I be likely to do with finger stones versus the benefits? There are some slightly discolored and a few slightly rusty spots on the blade that could likely be improved pretty easily by the right person.

 

Finally, I got this sword cheap and $2500 is a big profit were I to sell, however, I remember early Japanese swords bringing that, and more, 20 years ago. German stuff, particulary SS swords and daggers, has gone through the roof. What happened to these? How are you guys so lucky as to see prices at a standstill?

 

Harvey

[Stephen]

Your thinking of the prices of the 80s, the Japanese market took a dive and so did sword prices...the elusive Masamune pulling in a cool Million ...is now half that. 2500 is a ruff shod price...with out papers and polish...with them it could be three to four times depending.

 

ive never had luck with the stones...others do a good job, stop any active red rust wit a bone rubbing and oil it is all id do. come up with a fair price and let the collectors here have a go at it or Ebay it are options, I think its worthy of a restoration myself. Alas im a brokeazzFer

[sencho]

I might could clean it some and see a mark but I'd probably hurt something in the process. I think it's unmarked, unless the little thing that looks like a US flag on both sides of the shiny part is a mark.

Harvey

 

 

Harvey... don't clean the tang mate.... big no no!!... leave as is.... I think the "US Flag" stripes are a polishers mark....

 

cheers

[Grey Doffin]

And don't try the finger stones either. Put on a very light coating of oil and leave well enough alone. Polish should be left to a properly trained professional.

http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm is the NBTHK/American Branch website's sword care and etiquette brochure. It will tell you what you need to know to keep the sword properly.

Grey

[Mark]

as far as prices go my thoughts are -- Lower end military items have gone way up, high end items continue to appreciate, mid range items ($1000- 5000) are way down.

[Harvey]

Mark,

 

I guess I've been living in a vacuum regarding Japanese swords. You surely seem to be right about mid, low and high value pieces. This is the first one I've purchased in 20 years and it's worth about what it would have been at that time. On the other hand, I've been seeing WWII period swords (non-smith made) for sale at really high prices. 20 years ago I wouldn't have paid $200 for the very best factory piece and I doubt I would today unless it were for re-sale. There's a Japanese rifle for sale locally and the seller thinks it's a bargain at $750. Use to a person couldn't give those away.

[Guest Nanshoku-Samurai]

I agree that Shinto Kanemoto is a good guess. Just a pitty it's been shortened. I think it should eitehr be kept as is or sold as is. Polish is still nice and a new polish probably wouldn't be economic.

 

Max