How To Remove A Habaki

[EdWolf]

Hi to all,

I have a blade and the habaki is stuck. I have tried to remove the bakabi but it’s not moving. After searching this forum I have also tried the hot water method but still no results. Anyone other ideas how to remove the habaki? BTW the hakabi is made of copper.

Regards,

Ed

[ROKUJURO]

I have tried to remove the bakabi but it’s not moving. After searching this forum I have also tried the hot water method but still no results. Anyone other ideas how to remove the habaki? BTW the hakabi is made of copper.


Hi Ed,

there seem to be more problems with this item!  

Maybe the hot water will help as a first step. There are special wooden tools  to remove a stuck HABAKI, and you can make them yourself quite easily (http://toyamaryu.org/katana_disassembly.htm).

Some years ago, Barry Thomas advised here on the NMB:
 

Posted 02 June 2012 - 02:58 PM

.....A method I have used very successfully without damage is to slowly pour a kettle of boiling water over the habaki (tang down) whilst rotating the blade. When the water is all gone take a piece of thick cloth (have it ready to hand), wrap it around the habaki, grip it tightly on the habaki, and gently (more or less...) bang the tang down on a largish block of soft wood (eg., pine in a 4 inch x 4 inch x 12 inch length). The habaki usually comes off fairly easily. If this doesn't move the habaki then one is reduced to hammering directly on it. Again, here one can still use the hot water, but use a piece of soft wood as a drift (i.e., intermediary block between the hammer and habaki).

I am confident that helps! 

[EdWolf]

Hi Jean,

 

Sorry about the typing error. I forgot my reading glasses so my sight is little bit blurry

The wooden tool looks easy to make. I will give it a try. Thanks for your reply!

Regards,

Ed

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello,

 

 

Hi to all,

 Anyone other ideas how to remove the habaki? 

Regards,

Ed

 

Hello Ed,

 

I use an  L shaped piece of wood and a small hammer. First, I place the sword flat on a padded table surface with the nakago/habaki extended out over the edge. Then, clamp the blade down with either a wood clamp and padded material, or with help, padded material and by hands. Then, placing the L shaped piece of wood flat on its long wide side on the sword with the end lip against the front lip of the habaki, I gently tap the habaki off by tapping the hammer against the short end of the L piece of wood sticking up. Often this requires turning the blade over several times to tap and work the habaki off evenly. 

Additionally, I usually work sword oil under the edges of the habaki and let it soak before hand. This method has never not worked, and never any damage with careful attention. 

[EdWolf]

Hi Franco,

Thanks for your advice! I will give it a try.

Regards,

Ed

[Dave R]

 Have you tried "Break Free" or other penetrating oil?

[EdWolf]

Hi Dave,

I haven’t tried ‘break free’ or any other kind of oil. I was too afraid to ruin the patina of the nakago. I have only tried the hot water method so far. Is it safe the use these kinds of oil?

Regards,

Ed

[Dave R]

 Personal opinion, yes it would be ok provided you then removed the oil afterwards with Isopropyl  alcohol or similar. However perhaps wait for some others to weigh in with their opinion.

[Ken-Hawaii]

Habaki are made tight by necessity, Ed, but I've found that there is always one angle by which I can remove them by hand. This method takes some patience, & to be honest, it helps if you put it on yourself, which doesn't apply in your case. But I have trouble picturing a habakishi who would make one so tight that it required hammering for the initial installation. So unless your blade or habaki is damaged, please give the simple manual method a try, with a soft cloth around both blade & habaki.

 

Good luck!

Ken

 

[b.hennick]

Make sure that you protect the blade, the habaki and yourself. Wrap the blade, clamp it in place. Gently tap against the habaki with soft wood, hit with a mallet or small hammer. Go slow. Work both sides equally. People have been badly cut trying to remove a habaki. Be careful. Habaki are relatively easy to replace, blades and fingers no so easy.

[EdWolf]

Thanks all for your opinion. Maybe I'm to careful because I don't want to damage the blade and the habaki. Tonight, after work I will give it another try.

Regards,

Ed

[nagamaki - Franco]

Additional thoughts,

 

Yes, safety first, which means being in the right frame of mind, calm and relaxed, before starting. 

 

Make certain the blade is secure. Stop if there is any sign it is not, movement. 

 

Don't try to catch a falling blade, a reflex action. 

 

Gentle [firm] tapping is all that should be needed, do not force. If you have to use excessive force then something is not right, reevaluate.

 

Beware, there have been rare instances reported of a habaki having been soldered on. 

 

In the difficult instances of my habaki removals I found some combination of green and black crud and/or corrosion rust built up that was the problem. Gentle persuasion.

 

Good luck.

Edited July 4, 2017 by nagamaki - Franco

[EdWolf]

Hi Franco,

Thanks for the additional thoughts! Never heard about the soldered habaki. Forewarned is fore armed.

Regards,

Ed

[Dr Fox]

Two short pieces of wood each side of the nakago, a brass bolt or rod through the wood and mekugi ana.

Place blade upright in a vice. This allows a stable blade so you can access all areas.

Padding the blade edge is a useful safety tip here.

Slow and steady wins the race.

[PNSSHOGUN]

Usually a smart tap or two, using the method barry described in combination with some penetrating oil was enough for me.

[Lance]

Provided a pic of tool others mentioned above, place long side of wood against blade striking downward on front of habaki with wooden mallett.  Solder will make this more difficult though.  

 

Might be worth trying to contact someone  like  Bob Benson in Hawaii to remedy it.  I don't know what he'd charge you but you could  probably get some input  on the mei and sword itself  from him  at the same time.  

 

https://bushidojapaneseswords.com/index.html

 

 

Also Ted Tenold who's a member here might be able to provide guidance as well and  I believe he  resides in California too.  

http://www.legacyswords.com/about.html

 

 

Regards,

Lance

[ROKUJURO]

Lance,

the thread is almost three years old - should be enough time to get the HABAKI off, I hope. 

[Dave R]

 Regarding soldered on Habaki, I have personal experience of one that was glued on with what I think was an animal glue. The prize though goes to one I saw on a militaria forum, of a shin gunto with a cast on white metal Habaki.

[Lance]

Lance,

 

the thread is almost three years old - should be enough time to get the HABAKI off, I hope. 

Hahaha,  sorry, It was meant for the  topic below,  

 

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/31971-niji-mei-kanemoto-info/

 

This is what happens when  multiple tabs are open looking for information.  Others already provided my recommendations  so all's well that ends well.

 

Regards,

Lance

[doomsdaymachine]

Just saw this. Thanks, Lance!