Question About Sword Restoration

[Dtread918]

Hi there, today I became aware that I own a sword that was made by, Omura Kaboku. I inherited the sword after my father passed and my grandfather brought the sword back to the states after, WW2. Here are some photos of the sword. https://imgur.com/a/ceCVg

As you can see, it is not in the best condition. The grip matched the scabbard, but the grip fell apart long ago and is sadly gone, it is also missing the guard. I'd love to somehow get this restored and bring it back to life, but I have 0 clue how to go about doing that. Can anyone please help me out with some information? Thank you.

[Grey Doffin]

Hi, name please,

You can have a new handle (tsuka) made, equipped with either modern or antique parts (fuchi, kashira, & menuki) and buy a tsuba to fit.  David McDonald in Montana can make and wrap the tsuka and he can also help you find the pieces you need.  Lots of places to buy a tsuba; David can probably help there again.  David should be listed in the links above.  Expect to spend close to $1,000 or even more depending on the parts.

Beyond that, you're looking at polish and shirasaya and I don't recommend you go that route.  Quite expensive ($2,500 to $3,000 maybe) and it isn't necessary to preserve the sword.  Maybe someday you'll want to take that on but wait till you have much more experience.

Grey

[Greg F]

Hello and welcome. The photos dont work for me apart from one of the nakago (tang). Also it is a rule here to sign all posts with 1st name so we can politely address you. Would be good if you put some pics up here maybe. Cheers.

 

Greg

 

 

Edit: Grey beat me to it.lol

[Dtread918]

Thanks, guys. Wow, someday I will take that whole process on. I did not expect that price, but will start saving and get it done. - David

[Geraint]

Hi David.

 

Your sword appears to have the saya from a shirasaya, a resting scabbard that the blade is often kept in.  No need to find tsuba and pieces to make up, just needs a new hilt in plain wood to match the existing.  Have a look at this one, http://www.nihontoantiques.com/project/wakazashi-sword-fss-707/   If you look at other swords on the same site you will see what they look like in polish but take Greg's advice and go slow.  Don't be tempted to use amateurs for the work as they can so easily ruin the sword.

 

 

Enjoy!

[Ken-Hawaii]

From the long mei (signature), your blade was likely made during the Shinshinto period (1764-1886), David, although there was a smith by that name somewhat earlier (http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/17736-omura-kaboku-surgeon-sword-smith-ronin-eccentric/). And in case you didn't know, be careful not touch the blade other than on the nakago (darker handle area), & please apply a very thin layer of oil to protect everything except the nakago. Your area has fairly high humidity, so I suggest keeping the blade inside the shirasaya (the wood sheath) when you're not looking at it.

 

Ken

 

[Grey Doffin]

I hadn't noticed (didn't bother to look closely) that your scabbard is a shirasaya.  Much easier job now.  David McDonald or others can make the handle with wooden habaki, reglue and resurface the existing saya to match, and you're in business for a few hundred dollars.  This would be a wise investment as the blade is vulnerable to damage without handle and habaki.

Grey

[Stephen]

restoration is expensive but very rewarding see this post

 

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/20734-swords-back-from-polish/

 

done by this service

 

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/12772-sword-polishing-service-in-Japan/

 

You can ask that village person Swordguyjoe on cost in PM, hes a good bloke and will help you with the process, Grey is right top of the line prices, id hate to see that hamon done in Hadori. So it should be looked at by a trained togi as too which polish would be best.

Congrats on doing it the right way and not by some fly by night hack.

Good to hear your going to save it. keep the nakago away from moisture. wrapped with cloth that you may have used to wipe oil off the blade.

[Dtread918]

Is there a specific oil I should use on the blade? I have the sword wrapped in cloth and stored away in a drawer for the time being and I will only handle it with gloves from here on out. Good to know the handle can be easily replaced. Forgive me everyone, I am unsure of the meaning of several words you're throwing at me, I just started diving into all this yesterday. - David

[Stephen]

Yes its a learning requirement, just a light machine oil for now, never get in a hurry with nihonto, you will find it very rewarding in the end. 

[Stephen]

Greg 

 

Try scrolling down from first pix instead of right 

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello David,

 

There are a considerable number of threads on NMB about restoration of nihonto including shirasaya. Since it is important to understand what the entire process involves, and why steps should follow a specific order, it would be wise to read through this information before proceeding, so that you know what some of the options are and you're not having to unnecessarily repeat previous steps.

[Dtread918]

Hey, guys, in the midst of all my excitement yesterday I forgot to mention I found the grip to the tang. https://imgur.com/a/ld6UXSo, I guess it would be pretty cheap to reattach it?

[Stephen]

Grey is our woodworker here, he has a trick for that

[SAS]

Rice paste glue and a chopstick for the mekugi.

[Stephen]

Steve , Grey 

 

Would this work or does it have too much water content?

 

http://www.eshoji.com/p/nori-glue-for-shoji.html

[Ted Tenold]

Chopsticks will work in a pinch if you really need one, but in the long term are often very soft and will deform after a few cycles of installing and removing.  Good mekugi are made from susudake and even then, from a particular place in the cross section of the stalk.  Get on line or go to a craft store and look for Clover Takumi Bamboo Knitting Needles (see below).  They are made from seasoned bamboo, and will withstand the use as mekugi much better.  Also, they come in a variety of guages so you can closer match the maximum taper end diameter without excessive carving needed. 

 

http://www.clover-usa.com/en/50-takumi-needles-

 

 

If you want to make them out of section of bamboo, then traditionally the mekugi should be carved near the outside wall of the susudake (hardest, darkest) so that it is the side of the mekugi that will make contact the nakagoana.  When looking at many mekugi whether shirasaya or for koshirae, the cross section at the top will show it has a darker side (not like Guido's evil twin though  ).

 

http://www.namikawa-ltd.com/product/131

[Brian]

Excellent info Ted, thanks for sharing.

[Stephen]

guess so

[Brian]

Not for wood, I doubt it Stephen. It's fine for paper.

[Stephen]

i was thinking a slow reduction over low heat would leave rice glue, what i get for thinking

[SAS]

The nori glue i wouldn't know, it sounds possible, but the addition of preservatives makes me question it. i should have specified bamboo chopsticks, the pine wood ones would be very poor. The bamboo Ted mentions can be obtained periodically through Namikawa in Japan; they do have a web site. As for making the rice paste, I think you are on the right track Stephen.