Bugyotsuji Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I like the Netsuke idea. Just don't get your main powder flask and your sporran entangled... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Here is a variety of primer flasks. The very little one (Jacaranda nut?, Nata-no-Mi?)(Fuji-no-Mi, = Giant Wisteria?) I discovered at an early morning flea market today. Yes, some of us do get up at 5:30 am on a Sunday!!! I bought it for parts to fix the other one, but playing with it showed it to be viable as a unit, so I have fixed it and added it to the collection. I have affixed a picture of a larger flask for comparison; you will notice the construction is quite different, despite the similar shape, telling us that it is a coarse powder flask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watsonmil Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Piers, An outstanding collection. Thank you for the post. ... Ron Watson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Thanks Ron. With the new baby, in keeping with the ideas of reversibility and minimal intervention, I saved the original string and neckband. The spout cannula was loose and pushed too far in, the wrong way round; the interleaves (seppa?) were all insect-eaten and loose. The internal plug was jammed and seemed to have been glued in place into the flask body, if so a big no-no, since you immediately lose the ability to refill. The cap, the body and the ivory/bone locking pins were in good condition. The seed pod had in effect shrunk, tightening its grip on the plug, I discovered. Someone, trying to open it, had pulled loose the neck decorations. With a file I gently smoothed off the inner edges of the neck opening in the seed pod, rounded off the crudely carved sides of the plug, and applied candle-wax to enable subsequent ease of removal. I wiped everything to remove some of the accrued black powder remains, but not all. Just enough to make things work smoothly. By feel I found just the right position for the spout cannula tube to sit inside the plug, the lower edges flush internally with the plug, allowing for smooth pouring of powder from inside. There was a slight lip there where it stopped and sat happily. This cannula I glued in place with a wood glue. From experience of live firing, I know the cannula tube needs to be fixed properly. (Pour in the priming powder, tap tap tap... ooops. I lost one on the bridge at Tottori Castle in the heat of 'battle' and it reduced my ability to load the gun quickly by a factor of about 90%. Afterwards I was down on my hands and knees searching for it, in full armour and no specs.... PS It had actually been pushed down completely inside the flask where I later found it.) Finally I glued the 'seppa' plates together and onto the wooden plug. No point in being loose, and by pinching everything, ie plates and spout, it is easy to pull out the plug as a complete unit, as originally designed. The dealer had said on Sunday that it is not a particularly high class priming flask, and I had rejoined that I would be using it for parts anyway. Now though, I am reasonably happy that it has been 'restored' to working order. I would be tempted to use it for the next display, except for some residual concern about the slide-ablility of those strings. The cap always needs to drop back down quickly and easily to cover the spout. for reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watsonmil Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Dear Piers, Ian, .. or others, I have had in my collection a rather nice Gun Case for a Matchlock. The problem I have is that although in quite nice condition, ... the leather is so very dry and stiff that it will no longer accept a gun being inserted. The outside is covered in a black laquer, ... with pawlonia crests in gold laquer. Is there anyway of making the leather supple again. I have tried Neatsfoot on the inside sometime ago, ... but it does not seem to have made much difference. Have you guys any suggestions, ... or is it a case ( excuse the pun ) of leaving well enough alone and just display as is ??? Also any suggestions for preservation for both the lacquer and the leather would be most welcome. ... Ron Watson PS. Piers you did a wonderful job of restoration. Correct restoration of artifacts is a science unto itself, ... often liberally peppered with improvisation and imagination ... BASED on STUDY of the old original techniques. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Ron, I love that gun cover. Really nice. I have a similar one, but sadly at the point when I inherited it, (I should have stopped him) the friend who gave it to me cut it down and made it into a shorter 'holster' for my pistol. It too is very hard, but through use of gradually larger wads of newspaper (thinking shoe trees) and repeated insertions of the pistol it will take the short gun. The lacquer must have been a rain-proofing technique. I wonder how hard and/or flexible/ inflexible it was when new... I too would be very interested to see if Ian has any ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 PS Remember your cover was probably made to fit a particular gun, possibly not a large one. My wife upon request made 20 assorted red cloth gun-covers for our squad, but she should have made them in S, M, L and LL... You should see the longer gun owners trying to bag the longest covers first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watsonmil Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Dear Piers, See my article ( previous post ) .... An Interesting 8 monme Tanegashima. I did not acquire the gun and gun case together, ... it is just coincidence that they make a good match. ... Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Ah yes, thanks, now I recall. A lovely gun, that one, and a happy match! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Piers, Ron, I too have a tsuka cover of lacquered leather that is now so stiff I dare not open it. However, since I don't carry my swords out in the rain, it hasn't been a problem. The standard treatment used to be what is known as 'British Museum Mixture', (there is a Wikipedia entry on this) basically lanolin in a solvent with a touch of fungicide and sometimes beeswax. It certainly works but still leaves the leather a bit on the stiff side. If the unlacquered surface is get-at-able, the finest treatment is a bit gory but is said to restore leather in a way that is little short of being a miracle - I've never actually tried it but have seen it used on buckskin. It is I'm afraid to rub brains into the surface. It would need a trip to a slaughter house but it would be worth trying. I was informed by someone who had tried it, that a dry, cracking piece of leather was completely refreshed and ended up as supple as the day it was first made. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Many thanks Ian, for the erm.... RON, you had to go and ask, didn't you!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcrh Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Ron, I am sure you are already aware of mink oil, I have used it for many years on all my leather shoes and clothing. I have some very dry ww2 Japanese sword belts and I have some mink oil I was planning to use on one as an test piece, I will let you know how it works. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mink_oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kusunokimasahige Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 What I use to restore and preserve dried leather is a cream called rapide leatherfat. You can melt it to a very thin liquid and either soak the leather in it, or in case of larger objects pour it out over them. It worked on dried WWII leather belts and shoes as well as a pair of dried Roman sandals and medieval era shoes which were found in an archaeological context. http://www.rapide-bv.nl/test/stramien.a ... anguage=fi KM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watsonmil Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Dear Ian et al ... BUT ... mostly Ian, You realize Ian that there is a 6 hour time differential between where I live in Canada, and where you live in the UK. I was sleeping when you posted that bit of knowledge ... ie. " Brains " ... rubbed into the leather. I was eating breakfast ... a bowl of Porriage when I read your treatment ! Key words here are .. " was eating ". I know that animal brains were used by our Natives ( Indian & Eskimo ) in the leather tanning process, ... so off to the Abattoir I shall go, .... now since my wife does the cooking around this man's castle, and the mending of clothes ... she can do the rubbing in. I shall keep you all abreast of the outcome. Tell me this Ian ... if your bloody brains do such a fine job ... why is it your leather tsuka cover is still stiff ?? . ... Ron Watson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b.hennick Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Dubbin works well on leather. It contains mink oil and some silicone. Just rub it on and the leather not only becomes supple but also waterproof. I have never used it in a restoration context but I have used it on leather up to 20 years old. I remember using it years ago on my winter boots. Last night I treated a leather belt with it. The belt looks new again. Rub it on with your hands or a soft cloth let it sit and polish if wanted. Here is what wikipedia says. "Dubbin is a wax product used to soften, condition and waterproof leather and other materials. It consists of natural wax, oil and tallow. An open tin It is different from shoe polish, which is used to impart shine and colour to leather. Dubbin has been used since medieval times to waterproof and soften leather boots. The name dubbin is a contraction of the gerund dubbing, describing the action of applying the wax to leather.[1] Ongoing conjecture abounds[where?] about whether the constituents of dubbin promote rotting of the natural fibre stitching used to attach leather pieces together. There are centuries of experience that suggests it is safe, but selected pieces of literature have demonstrated some deleterious effects on high–order cellulose structures by bacteria which survive and propagate in the amino acids and fats contained in tallow, one of the chief ingredients of dubbin. Dubbin can also be used as a moisturiser and chain lubricant." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Part of the problem is that the outside is covered in lacquer. To apply magic mixture onto the leather itself, you would need to be able to get your (wife's) arm down the inside of a long thin hard envelope that not only doesn't open but also threatens to crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kusunokimasahige Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 That is why soaking it in molten leather fat or soaking it in leather oil would work better. KM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watsonmil Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Dear Piers, Yes, ... I have thought of the problem, ... and the plan is to cut the old hand stiching ( which I can or rather wife can ... and then post treatment re-sew ). This will allow me ( or should I say the wife ) easier access. I think I will try Ian's brains first ( Jesus that didn't come out right ). Lucky for me I do not have a squemish wife. You know I've hunted and dressed wildlife myself, ... yet the removal and/or handling of brains I find somewhat nauseating. I wonder what Ian's friend did about the odor ( brains do smell ). Perhaps a coating of Mink Oil post brain treatment or even Lanolin or possibly Henk's " ledercreme " ??? Opinions are welcome. I shall as promised post a thread on my success or failure down the road. In the meantime thank you ALL for the assistance and advice. ... Ron Watson PS. I have the most wonderful wife with whom I have shared many happy years. Would you all be so very lucky ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Ron, I too have an aversion to rubbing animal brains into my treasures - in fact the very idea gives me the hebejeebies. The other slight concern I have would be how far the lacquer has soaked into the outer surface and hence how far the treatment would penetrate. I cannot resort to cutting the threads since my tsuka cover was sewn and then turned inside out before lacquering. I could cut the stitching but I couldn't re-do it since the lacquer outer surface would still be too stiff to allow it to be turned. On the subject of stitching, I have a saya cover (which surprisingly is still nice and supple, perhaps because it is slightly thicker leather) in which the stitches are so fine and close together you wonder how the material withstood the treatment. This has a silk lining to protect the lacquer of the scabbard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watsonmil Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Dear Ian, Fortunately the stitching is on the outside, and altough close ( tight stitching ), ... I do not forsee a problem. In the case of your tuska cover, ... I too have one done in exactly the same way as yours. Amazingly it too is quite supple. The lacquer does not appear to have penetrated deeply into the leather, ... so am not overly concerned. My real concern is to put some life back into this artifact and stop further deterioration ( but without damaging ). Conservation/ Restoration is ALWAYS a diifficult and frightening task as I'm sure you are well aware. This endeavour will be carried out with care, but as you well know even the best of plans can go awry. If you or others know of experts in this field, and can put me in contact, that would be appreciated. In the meantime I shall continue to research procedures before I put my brains to leather. Thank you all for your knowledable and kind input. ... Ron Watson PS. Piers, ... For goodness sake with your vast experience, ... jump in here if you think I'm doing wrong somewhere. PS. Barry, ... Dubbin is a tallow, and unfortunately suseptible to going rancid ( that was one product I have investigated ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugyotsuji Posted June 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Malcolm, I tried to reply but your pm replies are blocked/disabled. "I have little advice to give, unfortunately, as I do not live near there. If you can get to the O-Edo Antiques Market in Tokyo, however, then this one I can recommend." http://antique-market.jp/jp/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcrh Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Just some trivia, these 2 auctions are over now, the seller has years of experience, anyone see whats wrong with these 2 listings? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 2245wt_797 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 2245wt_797 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kusunokimasahige Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Eric, the second item looks like some pant style to me, not like kote without armour added. The first is not a Haori. KM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcrh Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Eric, the second item looks like some pant style to me, not like kote without armour added. The first is not a Haori. KM Henk, your right on both, one is hakama with built in kyahan and not kote, and the other is not a haori, any idea what is really is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kusunokimasahige Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 To be honest i think both pieces of Garment are European inspired. The jacket with the high collar reminds me of some of the 18 and 19th century high collared European Garments as do the pants which look like a form of 17th century breeches with the side buttons worn with stockings, but more straight than the 17th century Dutch examples we see. KM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcrh Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Henk, you might be right about the European influence, I believe the shirt is actually a gusoku shita or shitagi for under armor wear. All of the ones I have seen have a collar which buttons, narrow arms and an attached belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kusunokimasahige Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Ah thank you !! i was indeed wondering what it was, because i thought that normal under armour wear consisted of just the manchira and normal clothing. A new think to look out for, these Gusoku shita. KM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcrh Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Ah thank you !! i was indeed wondering what it was, because i thought that normal under armour wear consisted of just the manchira and normal clothing. A new think to look out for, these Gusoku shita. KM Henk, have you seen this site? http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/index.html Shitagi (shirt) There are several different styles of shitagi, but do not get any fancy ones - the style recommended is just about the same as an ordinary kimono with very narrow sleeves, a little shorter in length and narrower in width, with a few buttons at the breast, and a thick tape or cord around the waist. It should be put on as though it were a kimono, the left hand being first put into its sleeve, and then the right, the breast being buttoned and the waist cord finally tied at the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Just some trivia, these 2 auctions are over now, the seller has years of experience, anyone see whats wrong with these 2 listings?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 2245wt_797 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 2245wt_797 The lower item looks a Momohiki (股引), which is traditional close-fitting trousers. Ref. http://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/sumitaya/ ... ohiki.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcrh Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Moriyama san, thank you for the correct name, and while searching with the name you provided I found this site with interesting information, I wish I spoke Japanese. http://members3.jcom.home.ne.jp/pehota0 ... mohiki.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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