swordeval Posted September 2, 2014 Report Posted September 2, 2014 Hi Here is the second of the two. Unsigned - though some writing on the Tsuba and Saya (images attached). I'll post some additional photos in the response. As always, appreciate any thoughts on age of the blade and translation of the inscriptions. Regards Paul Quote
swordeval Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Posted September 2, 2014 More photos plus correction - the writing is on the Tsuka not the Saya Thanks. Paul B Quote
Geraint Posted September 4, 2014 Report Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Paul. For the sword some dimensions would help. If you start to describe what you see it will help to learn about the sword. For instance the tang has one hole and is not shortened, the file marks seems to be straight, the colour is hard to tell because of the fresh rust. Please do nothing to the tang other than wipe with a little oil perhaps to remove the surface colouration. Your tsuba might be Kunihiro, hard to see at the moment. Quote
Jean Posted September 4, 2014 Report Posted September 4, 2014 A lot of ware on this blade, a big hakobore (chip in the edge), red rust. First, take care of the red rust by slightly oiling the blade, take care of the nakago and the tsuba as indicated by Geraint. I would place it shinto. Quote
swordeval Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Posted September 4, 2014 Hi and thanks for your help. Geraint - yes, I will post some dimensions. I should have thought of that. I have compared the signature to one copy of Kuniniro's I have found online and to my still novice eye, they're not quite the same though similar. Yes, I need to remove the red rust colouration and stabilise elements both swords. I do understand the need for extreme caution and conservatism as opposed to taking a wire brush to them! I have limited knowledge of this area but I am much more knowledgeable in horology where many of the same basic principles apply. I have some experience of following best-practice stabilisation on Tsuba's and know how long it can take! Here, I've done a very light, gentle and first-pass red rust rub-off from the signature and attach some revised images. They're not much better frankly but they may help. Very hard to get a clear image until the last of the red rust is removed. Jean - Yes, what I believe is called the Ha (?) contains numerous generally tiny pieces of damage and wear. One is more significant, penetrating almost the depth of the lower part of the Hamon. Pity. Best. Paul Quote
Geraint Posted September 4, 2014 Report Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Paul. Depends on what you are using for your kanji, online or a book. Some of the more useful books will show you several different ways of writing the same kanji. The first on your tsuba is Kuni, now we can see it, and this one has several styles. Just when you thought it couldn't get any harder! Cheers Stephen, our posts crossed. All the best. Quote
swordeval Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Posted September 4, 2014 Hi Stephen/Geraint Very many thanks. I am grateful for your expertise and help. We're still using largely online kanji sources until we get enough 'sense' to think about a good solid reference. Evolutionary growth really! Thanks again. Of yes, I will try and post those dimensions tomorrow and some better shots and dimensions of my other blade too. Cheers. Paul Quote
swordeval Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Posted September 6, 2014 Hi again The requested dimensions plus two more images - hopefully to help with tentative date attribution. Total length : 55,6cm Mune: ihori File marks - Kiri Nakago: 13,5cm Kissaki to ha-machi : 42,1cm Width at Mune: 0,5cm Max ha to mune : 2,8cm Max ha to hamon : 0,3cm Ha to shinogi : 2cm Thanks! Paul Quote
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