cabowen Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 Have one stuck so hard it cracked the tip off a screw driver....Before I mess it up, anyone know if these are right or left handed threads? It doesn't want to budge either way but I would at least have a shot if I knew for certain which way was which....Been so long since I have had to remove one of these I can't remember with certainty...Thanks... Quote
Mark Posted June 2, 2014 Report Posted June 2, 2014 all the ones I have had are normal counter clockwise to remove --- not to say yours might be different but I have had dozens Quote
cabowen Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Posted June 2, 2014 That's what I thought but wanted to make sure.., Looks like I am going to have to drill this one out...damn.... Quote
Peter Bleed Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 I just checked the one example I happen to have and it is a "lefty loosey, righty tighty" just like they taught us in 7th grade. When it come out (or break off,) we are dying to hear what it was that Chris Bowen thought was worth acquire - - with the tsuka on! Pete Quote
cabowen Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Posted June 3, 2014 Peter Bleed said: I just checked the one example I happen to have and it is a "lefty loosey, righty tighty" just like they taught us in 7th grade.When it come out (or break off,) we are dying to hear what it was that Chris Bowen thought was worth acquire - - with the tsuka on! Pete Thanks Peter.... The sword itself is nice....27 3/8" nagasa, which is great, choji hamon, tight, even jigane without any discernible flaws....I will try some penetrating oil and a few other things before I drill it out... Quote
Stephen Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Chris is there enough on both side to be pinched with vice grips? I have one that is not threaded, doubt its the same. wiggle back and forth and it comes out. Quote
cabowen Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Posted June 3, 2014 totally different. nothing to grab on the back side. Quote
george trotter Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Chris, I have a few of these Type 3 mounts. The screw threads into an oblong block (threaded nut) set in a recess on the opposite side under the same. If it is frozen there is a danger that "force" could make it rotate and so damage the tsuka. Maybe best to give it a gentle probe, exactly where the end of the screw would come out (even if under an ito fold) and remove one nodule of same. Then you can drop some penetrating oil in on the head of a pin and let it free up the thread. Just a suggestion. Regards, Quote
Stephen Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 impact driver, light tap not to push thru, other side well blocked,bed time maybe ill see nakago in the morn Quote
brannow Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 I usually crack the end of the screw driver with my hammer to brake the rust if its sticking. I think one time I had to use a pin oilier to put a couple drops of penetrating oil down the sides. Good luck! Quote
Stephen Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 im going shinshinto blade, mabe koto holes too close for gendaito. Quote
SwordGuyJoe Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Can't wait to see what you've got here. Quote
Jean Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 For fire arms, one of the trick is to heat the screw head. It works. Quote
cabowen Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Posted June 3, 2014 I tried heat, I tried cold. I tried penetrating oil...In the end, the drill won. See the other thread for the result... Quote
Stephen Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 see: any guesses who this is, for rest of the story. Quote
GregD Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 3 http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i47 ... 371fd8.jpg Quote
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