Loco Al Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Small rust circle on mune which I just found today. Steel wool and Rustoleum (just kidding), or just oil frequently and hope it doesn't grow larger? Alan Quote
GrantK Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 I wish I could help, but really I'm also interested in this question. I've never had to deal with any rust on my blades, so it is a curiosity how one would handle this. Thanks in advance as well, if anyone has any good ideas! Quote
almeister Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Hi Alan , Orange/yellow rust = "Active Corrosion " = Bad News This however is not detrimental in your case It's only a small area I would clean only with oil & cloth only Do every day & monitor until the coloured area " darkens " Then the corrosion is no longer active From there , monitor & oil regularly Just my opinion . Cheers , AlanK Quote
Gabriel L Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Might as well use uchiko too, it may help. It's on the mune and it's small, so while it's annoying it could be worse. Quote
Kai-Gunto Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Never talk with a sword drawn Use oil to remove rust carefully and then little uchiko and oil mixed. Quote
Dr Fox Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Did I read somewhere that a red lacquer was applied to rust spots?. Yes the effect was visible, but was a preventative of further corrosion! Quote
runagmc Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Does this look like an Umegane... if so, hopefully it won't continue to rust away underneath. It may be hrd to tell in a burnished area... Oil and be careful wiping so the rust doesn't end up scratching blade... Quote
Stephen Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 id lightly bone it then oil, and keep eye on it to see its not getting bigger. Quote
Brian Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 I was going to say the same thing. Bone or ivory chip lightly applied to remove surface rust, like you use to clean iron tsuba. Then oil and uchiko. Brian Quote
b.hennick Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Old ivory piano keys are a great source of ivory for this kind of task. Quote
seattle1 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Hello: I believe you will find that if you get a large British penny, one with a high copper content, ideally one showing Queen Victoria with its edge not entirely rounded, that the coin will remove the rust to the level of the surrounding surface and without scratching or otherwise disfiguring if there are overruns as there surely will be. Hold at about a 45 degree angle and applied only as much pressure as necessary to remove the rust and confine yourself to the rusted area even though over extending should do no damage. To prove the benign nature of this "high tech" approach, practice on some rust on another surface where the metal has about the same composition as a Japanese sword. When you have demonstrated the effects to your satisfaction, try it on the sword. I used to give such coins out at sword shows and heard no complaints from users. Any coin store will have such coins and 25 - 50 cents should get you one. Arnold F. Quote
b.hennick Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 I still have the coin Arnold gave me twenty years ago. I do still use it as well as ivory and deer antler. Thanks again for the coin. Quote
Loco Al Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Posted January 12, 2014 Thanks to all for your replies and advice. Adam asked if it looks like an umegane. I don't think that it is, but it does look like there is a tiny depression there. Perhaps a small flaw that might permit corrosion below the surface, which would worry me. The picture is magnified quite a bit, so it really is quite small. I may post another pic after I attempt to remove the rust. Alan Quote
benatthelake Posted January 13, 2014 Report Posted January 13, 2014 Alan: Please keep us posted on your progress with pictures too. Newbies (like myself) soak all of this up. Do my eyes deceive me or is that also some rust running along the center of the Hi? Best regards, Ben M. Quote
Loco Al Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Posted January 13, 2014 You had me worried there for a minute , Ben. Cripes, my sword has cancer! It does look like a rusty line in the photo. No, that must be a reflection or photographic artifact showing in the hi. I looked at the hi with a magnifying glass and even took a few more close-up photos to study by zooming in. I can't see any rust in the hi. I'll be keeping a close eye on it, though. Alan Quote
Marius Posted January 13, 2014 Report Posted January 13, 2014 Gents, this spot is tiny - this is a macro picture This is not umegane, just a burst bubble of spittle. Uchiko and oil should be quite enough. Alan, when handling a blade, always wipe it before re-sheathing. Quote
Jean Posted January 13, 2014 Report Posted January 13, 2014 Mariusz, You must have meant "before re-sheathing" and not "after re-sheathing" Quote
Marius Posted January 13, 2014 Report Posted January 13, 2014 Jean, thanks, post adjusted. My spell-checker has let this one go unnoticed, but it was very obstinate when it came to correcting tanago-bara (thread the yahoo.co.jp Muramasa). It insists on tango-bars Quote
Loco Al Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Posted January 16, 2014 Gents, this spot is tiny - this is a macro picture This is not umegane, just a burst bubble of spittle. Uchiko and oil should be quite enough. Alan, when handling a blade, always wipe it before re-sheathing. Corrosion from a tiny blob of spittle! Surely not of my own origin! Yes, I guess that I have been busted for being a bit of an alarmist. I did say that it was small. Perhaps not good to take close-up (macro) photos of blades. Tends to reveal many small imperfections that you would rather not be aware of. Alan Quote
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