First Trip to Japan DTI Plus, plus

[b.hennick]

First trip to Japan October 2013 by Barry Hennick (barry@hennick.ca)

Retirement is a time when dreams can come true. With the time, money and an understanding wife as travelling companion we set off for Japan October 22, 2013. The 12 hour plane ride was good but tiring. Arrival in Japan was easy. The train from Narita was super. We bought the Suica card that gave us the ride to Tokyo and the use of subways and buses in Tokyo – a great deal. Tokyo station is immense! Walk ,walk and more walk. Choices were subway or taxi. Being tired we chose taxi and got to our hotel in a reasonable time.

The hotel was well- situated and the room the largest we had while in Japan. Food was delicious but far from inexpensive. The first highlight for me was Dai Token Ichi (DTI): a short cab ride from the hotel. So many blades - all in polish, papered and at any level you could want. The first stop for me was to see Robert Hughes, who arranged a boat cruise/dinner in the harbour for that evening. You can see some photos of DTI and the cruise here:

First set by Guido Schiller:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17220

Second set taken by me:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1070486545 ... 4ZPSlLTTKA

The photos give you a sense of the range of items and the prices of some. Caution: you may experience some sticker shock. The 5,000,000 yen tsuba was not uncommon ($50k+). The best blade that I saw was a Tokubetsu Juyo Akihiro that was signed and dated. I was told that this was the best Akihiro in existence. I did see another one later in the week – but this first one was the better of the two.

The cruise that Robert arranged was wonderful with the scenic Port of Tokyo as our backdrop. In his role as host, Robert was very warm and welcoming and encouraged all guests to share his/her thoughts and impressions of the show and/or Japanese experience. This was a fun ice-breaker. The food was delicious and delivered fresh continuously thorough out the evening from the kitchen on board. This was an excellent experience as the photos linked to above will confirm.

DTI runs for three days. Day two was quiet unlike day one where people lined up to get on the elevator. The show is on two floors. There were two typhoons in Japan during DTI and those affected attendance.

The NBTHK had its 60th anniversary conference during DTI and many people (400+) attended that event. I thought that it would be a huge overload for me to attend the conference and so gave it a pass. According to those who attended it was fine.

On the Sunday it was off to Kyoto for sightseeing and more sightseeing. We purchased a 7-day rail pass before going to Japan, which is a great deal that allows you to travel by train anywhere in Japan that JRT goes. Our first stop was Daikoku-ji Temple at the end of the Raku bus 101 line. We were the only ones there! The door was open we entered the grounds, took off our shoes and entered the temple – no guide, no signs, no hassle just beauty. We worked our way back to the Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden temple) – fabulous grounds and a magnificent temple that is covered in gold; the grounds were serene. Then on to Nijo Castle – a huge castle with wonderful floors that sang as you walked on them. The Kano paintings were amazing; the rooms huge. All were well worth the visit.

Next morning it was a rush to the train (3 hour ride to Tokyo) and then the highlight of the trip. The train as always was on-time. The trip to the hotel by taxi was quick. We left our luggage as it was before check-in time and headed for the invitation-only visit to Kurokawa-san’s shop/home; the shop is called Sokendo. They have the best stock of the highest quality swords in Japan. Mike Yamasaki must be thanked for arranging this visit which was worth the whole trip to Japan. The first thing after arriving and saying hello was to kantei 6 blades. The set included: Kotetsu, Sukehiro (Tsuda) Doranba, Sukehiro (Tsuda) Suguha, Shinkai, Shinkai all Juyo Token or Higher and Taikei Naotane (Juyobijutsuhin). The winning entry for the kantei identified four of the six offered for examination. I did not come close.

Then the invitation to come upstairs where a face mask and fukusa were provided. There were over 100 swords to look at. All Juyo or higher – including national treasures. I saw more and better swords than I have seen in my life – that includes all the shows over the years, the New York Met. Exhibit, the KTK exhibits etc. The main focus was Bizen blades; Osafune School Nagamitsu on down, Ichimonji – all types, high-level Sukesada blades, Yamato School blade,s including two signed Kanenaga blades and on and on. …Now to Soshu which I happen to like very much. My favourite two blades of all exhibited were by the same smith Shintogo Kunimitsu – both signed tachi. When I looked at one of them, the blade screamed Awataguchi to me. The hada was amazing; the suguha hamon sparkled. I liked them better than the next blade a Masamune and the next two Sa blades and the Shizu that followed. The Fusamune had a great horimono but the Shintogo kept calling me.

In fact, I find myself thinking about it a lot.

I woke up early this morning thinking about it. We were driving along and my wife asks “What are you thinking about?” The Shintogo of course. For a finale Kurokawa-san brought out 9 tanto: Hiromitsu, Yoshimitsu (Awataguchi), Sa , Sa , Sa, Norishige , Norishige and Hasebe Kuninobu and Shintogo Kunimitsu.You can go to many North American shows and not see one Sa – here we were treated to three Juyo Sa tanto.

A bonus for me was being able to see how my best swords compare to the great swords seen, to evaluate where my collection stands and where it should head.

The following day we went to the Sword Museum which had a special exhibit of iron tsuba. There were 115 tsuba including: 11 Kaneie, 8 Nobuie, 4 Yamakichibee 2 Natsuo … all signed. This must be the best-ever tsuba exhibit of iron tsuba. Real Kaneie and real Nobuie tsuba are rare but to see such a range of work was very impressive. A friend loved the Jingo eagle best of all which is shown in the Museum flyer. The collection makes one want to rethink collecting tsuba. It is my understanding that 7 of the tsuba were on loan to the Museum from a European collector. WOW! (The circle beside the blade indicates important sword fitting. The blackened circle means Important Art Object and the double circle means Special Important Sword Fitting)

We went to visit two nearby sword dealers where things were not museum-quality, not museum-organized and somewhat frustrating. In one case, the dealer was not available and his staff person did not know the price of anything and could not contact the dealer. In the other case, I waited for the dealer to return from lunch, the staff were fine but the dealer had a big customer in hand and devoted 95% of his attention to that customer.

Next day was for shopping, which is easy if you are loaded with yen but difficult when your budget is limited. I am glad to report that gifts were well received by daughters, sons-in-law and grandchildren.

The trip home was fine with more shopping at the airport and a smooth ride home. So if you are considering a trip to Japan I suggest that you check to see when DTI is happening and make your trip cover that period. It will enrich your knowledge of quality swords.

[runagmc]

It will enrich your knowledge of quality swords.

 

Yeah, sounds like it... :D

 

Thanks for writing about your journey. I'm especially jealous of those who got to go to Kurokawa san's. It sounds like that would have been more than worth the trip alone.

[Ken-Hawaii]

Great job of reporting, Barry! Thanks for all the quality photos, too - how did you get permission to shoot?

 

Ken

[Stephen]

 

Thank you for that Barry, i felt as if i was there. Maybe someday if i make it that far.

[Jean]

Thank you very much my friend for this feedback. At DTI, there is always a room dedicated for displaying the best swords in show, did you by chance see it?

[b.hennick]

There was a display room on the fouth floor. It did not hold anything that caught my eye. I did not take any photos there.

[Guido]

I’m glad you enjoyed your first trip to the DTI (and Japan) so much. It was a real pleasure meeting you and your wonderful wife in person.

 

Btw, Barry handled the Kurokawa study session much better than I did: after looking at 20 swords, I always had to stare at a white wall for 10 minutes to re-boot my brain. Barry just kept going and going … :D

[David Flynn]

It was a pleasure Barry, meeting you and your wife. I'm glad you enjoyed yourself.

[raiden]

I'm glad I could help make your trip a memorable one! Don't forget to return the Shintogo!

Mike

[b.hennick]

Hey Mike:

I had to cut it in half to fit in the suitcase - no problem I hope :lol:

[Adrian]

Great report Barry :D . I really wanted to visit Japan during DTI this year (almost bought the airplane tickets trough KLM when they had a great offer) but it just wasn't possible to get my and my wife's schedules in line with such trip.

[nagamaki - Franco]

Hello Barry, thanks for sharing!

[Jorgensen]

Wow, that was a pleasure to read and view the lots of pictures. Thanks for sharing.