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Mark

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Everything posted by Mark

  1. Chris you are correct, good job. the 4th and 5th kanji are the makers name, the first kanji starts with "K" see if you can find a Mino smith with those 2 kanji, it is reasonably easy, the 4th kanji, when printed has 4 dots (or small dashes) at the bottom, when it is written those may not be easy to see
  2. when it comes to militaria collectors buying gunto i agree with Mr Reid's comment, original is better than restored or repolished so if a sword that is, original, in good, complete, is best
  3. PM sent
  4. sad to see someone damaged the tsuba, it looks like nice soft metal, too bad the number 130 is scratched on it
  5. Clive I had thought as you mention about uchiko enhancing a newly polished blade, but after talking with a couple of Japanese polishers their thought was that if the blade was properly polished then it is is its best condition when it leaves their hands and if uchiko is used to change that it is only diminishing the condition. I use uchiko on blades on old polish to help improve the condition if it has been scuffed or poorly handled.
  6. i had about the same experience, had a seller say no return, etc. I just opened a case, within an hour i had a message from him and eBay, refund on the way. just make sure you document everything and communicate thru eBay message so they ca access it and see what has been said
  7. Did you pay with paypal? in my experience if you tell him it is not as described and want to return it, and he says no (should do it through eBay messages not direct email) you just open an ebay case and they will credit you, you need to return it with tracking. seems ebay usually sides with the buyer
  8. Daniel I live near Toledo Ohio. I lived in Euclid when I was in elementary school. I get down Cleveland way occasionally. Let me know if you want to get together
  9. I have the 4 pictures per page book, it is marked as Showa 49 so 1974.
  10. can you add a close up of the nakago?
  11. the bore seems a bit bigger than 50cal ( i think as it is over 1/2"). When i lift the arm i hear it "click" but it does not lock back so maybe the trigger or mechanism needs repair I understand i can sell it legally in the States and mail it but i worry about packaging etc. Anyway i figure i will look for $1500
  12. Ron Thanks for the info. I am not into matchlocks. It is not signed If i still have it i will bring it to Tampa, i sold one there last year. I would list it in the "for sale" section but prefer to sell it face to face as i worry about shipping and it being a firearm
  13. Ron here are some pictures
  14. Thanks! one person suggested it meant Dragon, another said Bravery. It is difficult.
  15. seems I read somewhere that an officer's sword could cost a junior officer 2-3 months pay. I am not sure the exchange rate at the time but if the above is correct we can figure the cost based on average military officers pay now and see what 2-3 months income is
  16. clue, first picture left side is the date, on the right do you see Saku? if so the 2 kanji before are a name
  17. I have a matchlock. the barrel is not signed but there is a kanji, sanscript , or mon on the top of the barrel. I can not read it, can anyone help? maybe it is a name or something. The barrel has a butterfly, dragonfly and cherry blossoms inlayed. Thanks
  18. i maybe wrong but i do not think it is Chinese. The blade looks correct, the numbers and groove and the shape look genuine. The tsuba seppa and fuchi look real. It looks to me like someone cleaned and buffed the blade, habaki, fuchi, tsuba and seppa. The Chinese blades usually do not have the numbers stamped like your example and the groove usually end further from the tip on the Chinese copy
  19. there are a lot of smiths named Nagamitsu. it is signed katana mei.
  20. Mark

    I need your help

    i am glad you are interested in collecting Japanese swords. Maybe this sword has special meaning to you, or possibly it is very inexpensive. If other than those reasons it may be wise to read, study, and compare a number or swords before settling on this tanto.
  21. the pictures of the hamon give the impression that it runs off the ha, maybe it is just the pictures but check that closely. I agree with John
  22. Hans I would submit it for shinsa (it looks to be in good enough condition that the shinsa team could give a clear attribution). After shinsa results i would decide about a polish. One factor is are you looking at it from an expense/value point of view or do you just want to have a polished and papered blade.
  23. paper just says Kanesada no generation, group, or date.
  24. I do not mean to speak for him, but when Chris says the Shigetsugu is daisaku he may mean it was made by the student but signed by Shigetsugu. That was my thought. the mei would match and be his but if Okimasa made or another lesser smith it is hard to tell from a picture
  25. difficult to say without seeing each sword. I have seen several Nobufusa blades with weak areas of hada and ware', but he obviously he made some great swords. Shigetsugu has the advantage of an interesting background and history but he did not actually forge most of his swords, i have seen several and there was a wide range or quality, guess depeding who forged them. From what i see in the pictures i would pick the shigetsugu, but pictures can be deceiving.
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