missourigunguy

Thanks Jean. I may get an older blade at some point as I all I really wanted was something to go in my WWII collection. But since all these discussions and searching this forum I am intrigued. Updated on the blade. I did go back to his house yesterday and he had talked with another collector friend of who did say the blade was over priced. I did end up keeping the kanemichi and getting a Tadamasa wartime blade as well. Right or wrong I do like both for my collection and got them to what seems way better fair market value. If I have more questions I'll move them over the the military swords of Japan. Thanks, Travis

Lewis, you are correct. He was a collector and not a dealer. He invited me over to teach me a little about them and to pick out something. With several to choose from we sat down and look at them and he would tell me a brief description. As for what mark said, yes I should done a little more research as I had to do on early collecting firearms. Thank you for all the replies. I'm going to sit back down with him later today.

Sorry for all the posts on this particular blade. I’ve let him know all the discussions on this. He wanted me to make everyone aware of this. “The Mekugiana is definitely punched out not drilled. The Saya is an early heavy steel Saya. The Habaki is solid silver. The Tsuba is unusually large and pierced. The Hamon is definitely a water tempered Hamon. These differences definitely make it a one off unique Kanemichi Sword” not sure if any of this makes a difference Travis

Thanks Chris. Nice indeed from what I can see. It just seems I overpaid. He's allowing me to return and get my money back or get another one out of his collection. If someone would be willing to look at his excel sheet of what hes selling and let me know in their opinion what would be a good pick up for a first time guy like myself, I can email that. If you're interested in helping a guy out PM me your email and I can send it.

Not knowledgeable at all but a search on this forum has shown that some blades with the Showa stamp can still be hand made. The guy I bought it from told me he is sure this was a handmade blade. If i'm still not happy with the purchase he'll take it back or trade for another one if I choose.

Thank you all for the replies. I think its time to reach out to the seller to see what he will do for a price adjustment on this as I overpaid for this. I think he was assuming this was a hand made blade and not machined. especially due to the Homa.

When I sat down with him he did say that one sold for that. He wasn't pressuring me to buy this particular one. I had actually gone to look at a different one for sale but showed me many of them.

I'll have to look but everything seems pretty straight. Not sure of all the verbiage on what everything is called but there is a slight gap when the handle is up to the Tsuba

Here is the description on his spread sheet for this particular sword. Kanemichi (兼道) Era: Showa Period Cutting Edge Length: 26 7/8 inches or 26.875 inches or 68.2625 centimeters or 2.25266475 shaku Overall Length Including The Nakago: 35 3/8 inches or 35.375 inches or 89.8525 centimeters or 2.96513547 shaku Kanemichi (兼道), Ubu one hole with a Three Cedars Hamon. Most Kanemichi Sword blades are 26 1/8 to 26 1/4 inches long; this longer blade is noteworthy and a definite positive. A similar Kanemichi received NBTHK Hozon Papers. A similar Kanemichi Sword recently sold for 2,000,000 Yen or about $14.69562 USD. Please note this Kanemichi is listed in Japanese Swordsmiths Revised by Hawley page XXX KAN 1401.

Set 3 of pictures.

Set 2 of pictures

Hello all. First of all, I'm on other collecting forums under the same name. Mostly collect WWI and WWII firearms. I came across a local seller who has been collecting Japanese swords for over 40 years and speaks at a local community college. I spent some decent time at the gentleman's house and walked away with this blade. He had several that we looked at. I was recommended to this forum from the gunboards Japanese board. I would just like to get some collector thoughts on this and thoughts on price since this isn't my area of expertise. Price is not to resale, just to know if I overpaid and need to talk to the guy about that.