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This is simply astounding @Jussi Ekholm! Thank you for sharing this incredible resource. If we own a koto blade not in this database, would you like us to forward the relevant information to you?

I would love to read more about it, if you don’t mind directing me to the other discussions @Jussi Ekholm.

1. As of now, there is a 10% tariff on all Japanese goods entering the U.S. This will increase to 24% in July if a trade deal is not reached or if not changed. 2. Normally shipment is by EMS, which is USPS delivery once in the U.S. They will do UPS for items valued in excess of the EMS insurance limit. 3. There should be a signature required at delivery with EMS, but that depends on if your mail carrier follows protocol.

He should update this (and the website) as he told me that he no longer recommends uchiko for cleaning polished swords.

There is still a base 10% tariff on imports (except for China and Hong Kong at higher rates). The 90-day pause was only for the proposed tariff amounts over the 10% base. For Japan, that was an added 14%, for a total of a 24% tariff.

Was the blade shipped in a shirasaya or other protective covering? If so, I struggle to believe that this is shipping damage. More likely, it was the condition of the blade when you bought it and the dealer is trying to justify it. I am not knowledgable enough to say whether it could be polished out, but I am guessing that it could. It appears to be fairly minor. Without knowing more details about your blade, it is hard to say what effect it has on its value.

I’ve bought several nice blades from them, I’ve been to the store several times, and I’ve had lunch with Tsuruta san (the owner). Everything was exactly as described, prices were good, and communications were prompt and professional. I would not hesitate to give them more business.

Interestingly, the bids above 17M JPY were only from two bidders. Few people can participate in a bidding war at those price levels.

Bravo @Jussi Ekholm. For me as a relative novice, your composite image really puts these sizes into perspective.

I am far from an expert, but I don’t think it is jifu since the hada flows through it. My understanding of jifu is that it free of the hada. I could be totally wrong, though, as jifu seems to be hard to consistently define.

This should be required reading for anyone signing up for a NMB account (along with guidelines for taking and posting photos).

I could be wrong, but I think horsetail leaf is what Tanobe sensei uses to scrape the shirasaya, removing the wax, before writing the sayagaki. The leaf Brian mentioned was much broader.

I asked Brian Tschernega about this due to his expertise in making shirasaya. As @nulldevice said, ibota wax is traditionally used. I bought some from the UK, put it in a mesh jewelry bag, and tried “dusting” the shirasaya with it by lightly hitting the bag against the shirasaya. Brian T. said to use a specific Japanese leaf (the name of which I do not recall) or large wood shavings to rub the ibota wax dust on the surface of the shirasaya. Having neither the specific leaf nor large wood shavings, I have experimented with various other things. Nothing has yet given me the results I would like. It mostly looks like I have not accomplished anything.

A number of the dealers mentioned have swords in your price range. Buying from Japan isn’t that scary as long as you understand there is a wait (about a month) for the expert permit to be issued and as long as the package is fully insured. I have bought several swords from Aoi Art, shipped via EMS, without any issues. RVA seems to get some of their swords from Aoi, too, based on the auction results. You can search the Aoi site by specifying your budget. You can also email them and ask what Tsuruta san (the owner) would recommend based on your budget. Same for contacting Token Komachi. I would stick with a blade with modern NBTHK papers.

Satsuma (aka Sasshu) is a different province than Settsu (aka Sesshu), so I don’t think those are the rights smiths, @oli. And the character for hiro on the blade is different than what those smiths used. I don’t see a reference to this smith in Sesko.

It appears to be signed Sesshu-ju Masahiro. I don’t know its authenticity or anything about the smith, unfortunately. Is it papered?

This is the wrong way to wipe off a blade regardless of the material used. One should start safely above the rust on the nakago to wipe up toward the kissaki. The small area above the nakago not covered in the wipe up should be wiped down toward the nakago.

Are those the hammer prices or the realized prices?

Wonderful, @Hoshi. I enjoyed reading it, and I look forward to more!

Yes. When an Aoi Art auction ends without bids, the item becomes available for order at the same price as the starting bid.

The English version of the Yamato book just came out last November. They were available to purchase at the DTI last year. As for the other books, here’s what @Markus told me in November: “The publisher Me no Me has planned to have out the English version of the Yamashiro tradition (which I already translated) early next year, followed in spring by Bizen Part 1. The pace after that is TBD as Tanobe Sensei is currently still writing on some chapters.”

I just bought the Nihonto Taikan for a good price from Kanazawa Shoten. I have not been there in person, but their website lists many sword books. They’ve apparently moved from Jinbocho to Nakano.

A valuable lesson, for sure. I’m glad it worked out okay in the end.

Thanks for posting this @KungFooey. I think you got a beautiful blade for $460–quite a bargain regardless of gimei—and the ensuing discussion has been fascinating. I hope the blade is even better when you see it in person! When I first considered the initial question, I thought I would answer with an unequivocal “no.” But that blade at that price would make me reconsider my answer.

If you are not fond of bohi and this one already seems odd to you, it isn’t going to get better after you purchase it. I recommend that you pass on it and find something that is more pleasing to your eye.