moss

Gidday Ford and all, I doubt we have to worry too much about a decline in artistic tradition from within while artisans like yourself still create things of beauty. Isn't art in all its mediums fluid anyway and influence from outside cultures can add good not just bad. Just my thoughts Cheers Moss

Jason, I reckon that this idea of yours with the constant recourse of doing a" Paypal claim"is the wrong way to approach solving a bad buy on your part. Cop it on the chin, buy some books,listen to the guys on the board who will happily share their experience....but only if you listen and learn,and slow down a little and watch the" For Sales" on NHMB. Please don't think I am trying to get at you, it is just that if you keep mentioning" Paypal claim"I know, I for one would wait until the Paypal had hit the bank before I sent the goods or insist on a money order. I am not a dealer just an enthusiast but there are some top notch dealers on the board and you may give them a bad touch of nerves if they ever sell to you. 4 tsuba $130 odd dollars on Ebay you can be sure many eyes passed them by,it's not like it is a secret site and the seller didn't mention a time period. Also in Japanglish "a liitle old" or "original" can be interpreted many ways. Chuck them back on ebay or PM me, pay for the postage and I will send you another"Original" tsuba gratis.How good is that !Then you have 5. Cheers and better luck in the future Moss

Yeah Eric , Guess you could use one for that,but with the popularity of email you will go through a few $ in screens :lol: Moss

Jason, Keep you eyes on the "For Sale" section on the board . You will find some pretty decent blades posted from time to time, and you won't have the potential victims of auction fever breathing down your neck. What is your budget? Maybe post a wanted? Just my 2 cents worth of advice ,Ebay can be dangerous to your wallet,you have to be able to take the hit of a total loss. Cheers and goodluck Moss

Or we could just club them with a frozen Kangaroo tail Moss

Gidday Keith, I think the product you were thinking of is a converter that turns ferrous oxide into a kind of shiny brown looking coating......? I will just brush ,oil and leave. Good though to get the opinions and advice of others. Almost dry enough to glue the liner together now ,should have no problem with the paste,my rice always comes out gluey. Cheers all Moss

Thanks Stephen and John, I have given it a good tap out and will run a rod and brush down it and just leave it at that. I guess it lived 70 years the way it is . Thanks for all the help once again. Moss

Thanks Keith,and all, That sounds probably wise with the high humidity in Brizvegas. Does anyone no if any of the liquid rust converters would pose a future problem to the blade? From memory I believe they are acid based(Phosphoric acid and oxalic acid) Or would it be a case of best left alone Many thanks, Moss

Hello Reinhard, I will try to post some clearer pictures in a day or two. Maybe a little chalk in the mei will help? Cheers Moss

Andy, That is die grinder hada on your picture. Cheers Moss

Hello all, It's good news,the liners are out and I found the problem. There was an old piece of paper inside right in the spot where it rusted. Obviously very broken up but enough to cause a problem. I did a very light scrape of the internals and a scrub with distilled water as suggested. Just leave it to dry for a few days now, then if George would kindly give me his Rice Glue Recipe it will be reassembled. Picture 1 and 2 before.Picture 3 same spot after cleaning. Many thanks to all with advice. Cheers Moss

Thanks Jamie, I will post some better pictures and measurements . A mate of mine has a studio ,so he will get better shots than my clunkers. Next couple of days I would think. Cheers Moss

Thanks all, I will have a go at sorting it out. Would surgical alcohol help with the cleaning process or would this be another potential time bomb? I guess a worst case would be a replacement but I will try the idea of George's to soak and leach before going with a replacement. I can test the water between soaking with a conductivity or alternately a PH meter so a soaking should definatively prove acidity in the timber if no physical cause is visible I will post a couple of pictures on the progress once I begin. Cheers Moss

John, Are there any tricks to it? I would hate to damage it even though it has caused heaps of frustration in the past. Cheers Moss

Hello all, I have a metal gunto saya that continually causes the blade to rust even soon after cleaning and oiling. Is there anyway to remedy an obvious problem. The blade in question is not stored in there any longer but I wish to rehouse it in the mounts as they are all matched . Can the wooden liners be removed,cleaned and replaced without any damage? This is an old family blade that was taken to war and I would like to keep it as it has been for the last 70 odd years. Any advice appreciated Moss

Thanks again Veli, Nice bit of information on the heat required to change the metallic structure of a blade. I guess I won't dismiss a buffed blade if the cost is low,the only negative to one, is the cost to have it repolished . Cheers Moss

Simon, please ...a little less speed a lot more read. Not my post? A PM perhaps but not from me. Moss

Sencho, You forgot me for your list. Please quickly add before the edit time expires. Respectfully Moss

Thanks Veli, I suppose in a case where clearly the colour has changed it is a write off,but in the case of no colour change can the structure have changed enough to destroy the hamon? I am talking in a case of a potentially good blade that has had this treatment,would it be possible to have a polisher repair the damage. Of course if one could be found who would work on it. Cheers Moss

Gidday all, I know Simon is not talking about buffing his own blades but rather the fact that from time to time a buffed blade is offered for sale. I guess he, like I wonders if this has been done is there any hope or just to keep walking. Veli ,did the TIG work Cheers Moss

Jason, that sounds messy and time consuming. It would depend on the wording in the description ,I believe when told Edo it will be Edo. But when such a desription as no hard cracks that could be taken to mean no large cracks ,it could be put down to English as a second language or Japanese/English translating programme and I reckon Paypal will always take that into consideration. You can't just use it as a method to buy then refund. All online Dealers would have had some experience of this so I am sure they word within the guidelines. Have a look locally where you can "touch and feel" the goods. A big plus to this method is you meet some interesting people and will learn alot more. Ebay is not really the best place to learn anything other than the odd hard lesson. Hope this helps Moss

Tony, who would know without it in hand. In the decription it mentions "No Hard Cracks" What does that really mean?Does it come with some "soft Cracks"? If you read the posts on the board there is mixed opinion on this seller ,not to say all his items are no good ,just you need to ask many questions to satisfy yourself. Maybe others did and passed it by. Cheers Moss

Hello all, This katana was first registered in 1995,when the house where it was found was demolished. It was in gunto mounts and I would guess had been hidden to avoid destruction. I was told it is Sukekane ? There is some feint mei left but it defies me. Sorry in advance I am not a photographer of any real skill. Anyway thought it would be nice to show and tell. Cheers Moss

Thanks George, Always nice informatation,the bottom of the sword world ,(and I only speak for myself here)...gunto lovers appreciate your work. Cheers Moss

Simon, I think the good Drs comment is pertinant, Retirement planning and swords or any other collectible for that matter really don't go together, other than to have something you love when you do finally cease work. I have been at this for 40 years with various edged weapons and it always seems any appreciable change in prices always take quite a long time and only for really top of the line collectibles. There is usually a 30-50 % mark up on collectibles when sold so in order to make any real money you have to hold it long enough for the market demand to come up to the sellers price and then wait for another time for it to increase! Good luck in your future endeavours I shall not bother entering into any further discussion other than swords with your good self, as that is why I am a member here. We all know who you are, what you had, and who you know, so lets drop the FIGJAM and proceed with the business at hand. Cheers Moss