Samurai Art

A friend of mine, who’s a head doctor, mentioned that he had a visit from someone who claimed that 30 other head doctors had labelled him a narcissist, yet he was sure he wasn’t one. Isn’t repeating the same behaviour repeatedly and expecting different results considered a form of insanity? That's how I feel about this item. It's been posted everywhere on social media, asking the same questions and getting the same answers. The item itself is a rough, odd kote that doesn’t match the description provided. The text, written in the Meiji period, doesn’t align with the actual piece. There are visible signs of it being mounted and remounted—glue marks and rough edges suggest the associated statement and mon about it doesn’t hold up. A sode is not a kote; no mon is on the sleeve either. This piece seems like nothing more than a tourist trap with no real historical value. “Owned by a Shogun?” Seriously? Gethin, I would love you to own a treasure owned by a Muromachi Shogun, but I feel this is not it.

This situation is truly shocking, but it’s encouraging to see that Catawiki has taken some action. Personally, I’m not a fan of Catawiki. Their so-called "expert reviews" offer little to no real protection, as their expertise in many areas seems questionable at best. The platform is riddled with listings featuring reproductions, poorly restored items, or blatantly misdescribed pieces. Buyers should exercise extreme caution. Regarding Patrice, I’ve spoken to him several times. Despite what our resident troll often posts about him, I’ve found him to be a kind person. He explained to me that his profile is sometimes used by other administrators on the platform. That said, he has had ample opportunities to distance himself from these issues but hasn’t chosen to do so. As for the forgery of papers and the sword, this is an egregious act of fraud. However, it’s worth considering that the seller might have acquired the item in good faith from another source. Unless there is concrete evidence that it was purchased directly from the Samurai Museum, we should be cautious about assigning blame prematurely. If the latter is proven, then avoiding this seller is the only sensible course of action.

Maybe because the department head is the chairman of Asian Art in London, as are some of their staff directors. They hold a very nice party at the V&A.

PM sent

Hello Colin. I look forward to seeing you there and perhaps taking some items home. Best regards David Thatcher

Katchu Pillow Fight Mode: I have no interest in getting involved in a urushi dispute. I'm retired and don't have the time for such trivial matters. For clarity, Miura Anjin was the name given to the English pilot William Adams, also known as John Blackthorn, in the novel Shōgun. Regarding other points, tetsu (sabi-ji) urushi nuri refers to a russet iron texture applied to armour. Sabi nuri (錆漆) is a term lacquerers use for filler layers. Andy has had an issue with me since his late teacher claimed I was more skilled than his student. Mancabelli wrote the previous rant. I know how he writes. I will only say this: post your work for all to see. Anyone can boast about their skills, but a photo speaks louder than a thousand words.

Samurai and lower-ranked warriors who could not afford armour were loaned it. In the case of Hatamoto samurai, armour might also have been loaned to reflect their rank and ensure uniform appearance. These okashi could range from the highest level of craftsmanship to the most basic. During the Warring States period, and especially from the late Muromachi to the Edo period, armour was designed for practical use. It was constructed to be identifiable from a distance. However, after the Tokugawa unified Japan and war became rare, armour became more decorative, with details meant to be appreciated up close. Armour continued to be used for ceremonial purposes until the late Edo period, when concerns about an American invasion again led to the production of battle-ready armour. During the Warring States period and up to the siege of Osaka, armour needed to be maintained and produced quickly. Consequently, the urushi layers were often thinner. This type of lacquering was sufficient when maintained properly. However, after the samurai class was abolished, there was no longer a need to own armour or pay for its high maintenance costs. Armour was stored away, often repurposed, merged with other pieces, turned into tourist items, or exported. The term ubu is often misused to describe badly damaged items. While an item's condition might be "as found," it does not reflect its original state. The main issue with the lower layers of urushi is that they are not waterproof. As a result, moisture enters through the odoshi-no-ana (the holes for lacing), the joints between plates on the inside, and from chips. This moisture spreads, causing rust, which eventually delaminates the upper urushi layers. Cracks appear, and pieces fall off. The silk also degrades and turns to dust after 80-100 years. So, the bad condition is caused by poor storage and handling and lack of maintenance.

Yahoo is blocked for many. This is what he sent you a link to: Yojimbo, aka Simon, is an incorrigible troll notorious for being one of the most unpleasant individuals on this forum. He consistently demeans everyone and everything while peddling subpar products within the sales section. The best course of action is to completely ignore him. Years ago, in Japan, I acquired a worn Momonari kabuto from the Momoyama period. Despite its weathered appearance, it boasts an outstanding shape. It sits proudly in my collection next to an armour once owned by a lord. This is the beauty of armour: regardless of its condition, if you cherish it, that's all that matters. Who cares what anyone else thinks?

Piers, As said above, try to obtain a certificate. German Customs are strict about dealing with import/export procedures, which are changing globally as we move towards a digital system. Also, antiques are usually imported at a reduced tax rate, so the onus is now on the sender to prove the claim. I sent several shipments in, and each one had to be accompanied by a certificate. Several professional dealers are now using my KNKBSK service to overcome such problems with international shipping. https://www.Japanese....com/certification/; however, this service is unavailable to non-trade members, so the buyers should ask the person they purchased it from to produce the paperwork. Play the game correctly, and everything is hunky dory.

Items over 200,000 yen will invite a Customs Inspection. If possible, obtain a certificate of age from the dealer. At NRT, they will not know what is old, and you risk missing your flight. HS Code 97061000 Description: Antique Katchu is over 150 years old. Iron Country of origin: Japan Better to ship: You won't pay any import duty into the USA, but some states will charge you a 5% tax depending on what value you declare. DHL provide the best service, after that use EMS. Most hitsu get broken in transit. Happy hunting!

Trevor, I can tell you this: Not a single katchushi in Japan that I have met can lacquer to what would be deemed an acceptable standard. They do not have the skills to finish the surface. My son is currently learning and I don't want to share any of the armour mixtures or techniques I have learned or developed in order to safeguard his future from a commercial point of view. I learned urushi from a Japanese teacher, and you can study it remotely. There are several good lacquerers in the UK, including Mike Hickman Smith and Clive Hallam (Ford's brother). We are primarily self-taught but have improved over the years by taking instruction. Mixing sabi-urushi is easy and will dry in the air; no furo is required. Please try it and buy some materials from Watanabe Shoten, but please do not attempt to lacquer real armour. Rawhide is a bugger to work with; it has to be dried for at least three years prior; otherwise, it warps and traps in moisture. good luck and all the best with your adventure!

I am a member of this board. The mixture is called sabi-urushi nuri, not kokuso, as previously mentioned. It consists of flour, sawdust, or hemp strands. Sabi is made with water and a dried volcanic clay called tonoko. As a retired professional restorer, I cannot delve deeply into the restoration process. I have no interest in educating the three katchushi posers in this group who wish to learn the process to improve their monstrous works. For the newbies, I cannot recommend anything in the same way asking about sword polishing would be received. There are no books on the subject; to learn, you must study metalwork and how to apply urushi yourself. Studying in Japan should allow you to find a teacher like Nishioka or toyoda sensei, which is the only route in my opinion.

Colin, it was a pleasure to meet you today. You had some really nice items to offer. best regards David

I have always had a fondness for the Birmingham Arms Fair. It's where I started as a dealer. I had a table that I extended to members of the esteemed Token Society, allowing them to display their items for free. If they sold anything, I requested a small contribution for the table. After the Northern Token closed its table, I took it over with two members (as I was permitted to be a member back then), and we shared the rent to maintain a social gathering point for token and other collectors. It was an excellent way to raise awareness of the society and encourage new memberships to be taken. As my stock items increased in quality and price, I eventually outgrew the fair with gallery space now in New Bond Street Mayfair, yes I've become a snob. However, I still visit each time it’s held, meeting up with the gang and hoping to discover a hidden gem in the form of a dirty teppo. We once had several dealers in Japanese swords, and I hope this trend continues to grow with new participants. See you there.

I'll say hello. See you there.