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John C

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Everything posted by John C

  1. John C
    That article was written by "blade staff." Interesting that they do not cite any sources for their material. I always recommend (and made it mandatory for my students) to go to the original source and read it for yourself. Without any references or source material that can be checked, I would take the information with a huge grain of salt. John C.
  2. John C
    You are correct. I was trying to ask about the green painted katakana letter, but didn't express that very well. It looked to me like an "a" but I wasn't sure. John C.
  3. John C
    My point exactly. Could you imagine, however, some poor kid trying to write a book report or somebody researching to buy a sword coming across this type of information? They'll believe it. John C.
  4. John C
    Did you guys see this article on Sword Encyclopedia.com? The author, Jolene Sims, states the star on a blade is an indicator that tamahagane was not used, but rather puddled steel. https://swordencyclopedia.com/world-war-2-Japanese-swords/ John C.
  5. John C
    P.A.: Here are two links to help identify navy dirks. You'll notice how refined and detailed they usually are. The casting on yours seems a bit rough. http://www.japaneseswordindex.com/dirks.htm http://ohmura-study.net/742.html John C.
  6. John C
    In terms of scale, how tall would an action figure need to be in order to wear one? John C.
  7. John C
    Okay. Thank you. I was getting it confused with the "Na" mark in relation to Nagoya. John C.
  8. John C
    Bruce: I hate to ask and I apologize for being ignorant; but do we know why Western letters and numbers were used in addition to Japanese katakana and numbers? John C.
  9. John C
    Trystan: So just to clarify...this sword has the small Seki stamps on the date side and on the mune. Was the Nagoya factory in Seki? Or are those two separate things? John C.
  10. John C
    @Bruce Pennington Bruce: I read through this thread and I was wondering where we are on the painted RS blades without stamped serial numbers? I ask because it seems the green katakana "A" on the blade above corresponds with the blue western A on the number at the bottom of the nakago. And in this case, the green number (80) corresponds with the stamped number 80 on the habaki. Does this in some way fit into the scheme of stamped serial numbers or is that a completely different tracking system? John C.
  11. John C
    Thank all of you. Didn't think of steam. John C.
  12. John C
    Bruce: I don't see this exact mark on your stamp doc. Similar to the Tenshozan, though more stylized. Could it be added on the next revision if it is found to be legit? John C.
  13. John C
    Thank you, Barry. I saw a similar technique used by the lady on "The Repair Shop" series. She just used the bubbles from the soap to clean something delicate. John C.
  14. John C
    Hello: Not sure if this is the right place, however I can't read the punched "letter." What would be the best guess for this character on a Kanehide nakago? George Trotter notes "Kanehide does have katakana prefixed and also alphabet prefixed numbers (prob. assy. numbers) on his tangs but always painted". I'm thinking it's the katakana letter "a". What are your thoughts? Thank you, John C.
  15. John C
    Hello: I have a tsuka with old mud and dirt on it. While I know cleaning is generally frowned upon, I don't see the need to preserve the mud. I was wondering if anyone has cleaned their tsuka or ito wrap and if so, how? What are the best methods? I believe the ito wrap used to be white. Thank you, John C.
  16. John C
    Curious about this one. I have seen these where the flag is gifted to a soldier from a school, for example, and signed by the students. But this one is from a Vice Admiral ( a lot of info on line about him) to a "Mr.", presumably a civilian. I wonder if the other signatures are sailors? John C.
  17. John C
    Here is a site that has some examples of acid polishing and fake hamon. http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/acid polishing.html#fake hamon But quickly, ground hamon have fine grind lines and a clear demarcation line; acid etching can leave a "cloudy" appearance, though without nie, nioi, or yo or ashi. John C.
  18. John C
    Kyle: Took the liberty of turning it around. Looks similar in style to the other blade you posted. John C.
  19. John C
    Alexander: Do you mean real as in water quenched as opposed to oil or real as in quenched and not acid etched or ground in? John C.
  20. John C
    Noah: Like I said before, the only regret is not owning the one you wish had bought when you had the chance. I just bought an RJT Kanehide for 1,700 (with shipping). Did I pay too much? Probably, but now I own one and, so far, don't regret it. John C.
  21. John C
    Thomas, Bruno, and Chris: Thank you all for the info. I thought it was interesting that the English letter A was used along with Japanese 930 on the mei side and Arabic 930 on the date side. Could they have been using parts (or their bins) from Western manufacturers? John C.
  22. John C
    Alexander: If this is a Komonjo blade, it may or may not be genuinely Japanese. I would suggest looking elsewhere to ensure authenticity. John C.
  23. John C
    Bruce: I concur. The blade does not have the second mekugi-ana near the base of the nakago, as would be typical with Rinji mounts. In addition, the scabbard is black lacquered wood and the tsuka has only one chuso button. And oddly, the ito was white (now filthy with dirt and mud) and not lacquered. So would it have originally been a type 98 mounting? John C.
  24. John C
    Thank you Thomas. Mine uses the green and blue paint. In addition, the blue is written using the letter A with Japanese numbers on the mei side and Arabic numerals on the date side. Malcom Cox has a Kanehide with the same style of blue numbering. So I guess the numbering is valid, at least. John C.
  25. John C
    Well, there's your answer. It just got worse with the made-up chicken scratch. No reason to look at it any further. I would pass on all of it. John C.
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