John C

Yoon: Yes, both 1st gen and Echizen (3rd gen) used the kikumon, Unfortunately, 2nd gen did not.

Hello: Is anyone else having an issue with the drop down menu for Forums not working? Just trying to figure out if it is part of the theme hiccup or an issue on my end. John C.

That would explain the tassel not being described with yellow fringe. John C.

Quite possibly, John. It's pointy and stabby, however if it hit another sword or stick or something, I'm sure it would bend. On the other hand, it probably wouldn't break. So as a police weapon that doesn't require actual combat, it would work fine. John C.

Bruce: We often see notches (jimps) filed into nakago, could dots just be another form of that? John C.

Yoon: My first nihonto was a papered 2nd gen (~ 1723) Nobuyoshi Katana I bought from Grey Doffin. John C.

What surprised me was how easily it moved. Both the blade and the brass seemed really malleable. I made sure I used very little pressure in short bursts, to ensure I didn't work-harden the blade, and it straightened up easily...maybe a little too easily. This blade would not have survived any form of combat without deforming or bending, I feel. But at least it looks 100 times better than before. p.s. There were a lot of "assembly" numbers on the parts - 6 tick marks on the nakago and the number 8 (hachi) marked over the ticks; a number 8 (again, hachi) marked on the tsuba; something in pencil scratched out on the tsuka and the number 7 (shishi) marked on the opposite side; and a few other non-numerical marks on the nakago. It's been around. John C.

Red and brown tassel? No mention of a yellow tassel, but could just be talking about the himo (cord, not the other meaning!). John C.

As a reminder, I had received a blade that was pretty badly bent (pic 1 with reference lines). There was also a noticeable gap visible between the guard and the saya (pic 2) due to the guard being bent and twisted. I decided to go ahead and try to straighten the blade and guard. The result was that it was far easier than I thought it would be (see pics 3 and 4 with reference lines). After disassembly, I clamped the blade into a vise with blocks of wood for support (sorry, no pics of the naked bent blade and guard). I used very gentle pressure and was able to straighten the blade fairly well. Seems like the metal is rather malleable. I then put the guard in the vise and, using duct tape covered pliers, straightened the twisted and bent guard. Note the gap is no longer there (see pic 5). All in all, a successful attempt. John C.

George: Have you seen this kai gunto in the For Sale forum? Kai gunto from Takayama forge by @Swords

Robert: I think the date is Meiji 41 (1908), 11th month. John C.

Robert: I'm not one of the translators so I cannot read the smith, however the showa stamp above the signature indicates this is a ww2 made arsenal blade. The fittings are not army issue but could be gunzoku, civilians that worked with the military and were allowed to carry swords. The blade would be made using part machine and part forged and would have been oil quenched. Overall, a nice piece of genuine military history. John C.

Wow! John C.

Hello: Does anyone have a source of information about the Chikuzen branch of the Shimosaka school? One source states it was started by Yoshitoki, who left Echizen around 1648 but that is all I could find. This is in reference to a yari (see pics - file photos, not my hands). Thank you, John C.

At 500 euros, I wouldn't. Looks like a katana blade reworked as a tanto to me. But even if it were made in that shape, the condition is too rough to go higher than that - in my opinion. John C.

I have also seen these square ana on kabutowari. John C.

Just to add, even if it were amber, it is probably "new" amber that is melted down and poured into a mold to make the figure. This is a common technique used with amber jewelry. John C.

Dan: Remember too, that condition matters when referencing price. That blade and scabbard has a lot of rust on it. That should factor into your decision. You could get lucky and get a well known maker, however it would still need a lot of reconditioning. Personally, I would not go above 400 dollars (385 euros) for one in that condition with unknown smith. John C.

My guess would be water buffalo...with spots! John C.

Thank you, Piers. The ishizuki is fairly plain and riveted on. The whole shaft is lacquered with red lacquered stripes. It all looks like it has honest wear to me. John C.

Hello: I just picked up this fukuro yari signed on the socket Chikuzen Shimosaka. Please note the small cross piece on the upper shaft. Would I be correct in assuming this makes it an inoshishi yari? If so, were these used exclusively for boar hunting or could they also have been used as a weapon? Bonji script on both sides of the blade (needs a polish); first red then black lacquer applied to the socket, but rubbed off by someone to read the mei; two small mekugi ana at right angles on the socket; overall length about 9 feet. Thanks for looking, John C.

I'll help you out, Bruce. I read a post where you showed a picture of your tassels. They all had the "collar" on the top (which is what prompted my question, actually). Thanks for the pic, Sam. I read through Nick's stuff and didn't see that document. I too have his "Master List" of articles bookmarked. John C. p.s. as a leather worker, I can replace the collar at the top and make it look original, if necessary.

These are some of the recurring marks on the 1892 Meiji 25 swords. The circled mark is from a document referencing production numbers from type 95s. It's too blurry for me to make out, however the circled mark looks very similar to the 1892 marks. If they are the same, then it explains the meaning of the mark (being made the Iijima branch). Hope that clarifies, John C.

Mustafa: I suggest you use your knowledge of archaeology and provide input on the history of Japanese swords. We study Japanese swords for their aesthetic value as well as their performance value in relation to other swords and steels of the time. Comparing apples to apples, as we would say. If you have input on the relationship between Japanese steel and steel of other cultures from the same time period (1300 to 1800, let's say), we would love to hear it. John C.

Hello: I'm trying to determine if the tassel on the patrolman sword is in original condition. In researching other threads, the consensus seems to be the ones with the "collar" at the top (see pic 2 for reference) are original, which the one on the sword does not have. Were there actually leather tassel variants or are the "variants" I'm seeing fake? If the tassel on the sword is legit, is it a variant or just missing the "collar" that would go around the top? Thank you for taking a look, John C.