John C

Randy: I'll try to answer some of your questions. But first, take a look at the two pics. Notice a few things: 1) the nakago is the wrong shape (of course, this could have happened with the violent alteration) 2) the offset line between the munemachi and hamachi is classic Chinese. Could this have been done as a result of the alteration? Sure, however a Japanese craftsman would not do it this way. 3) the writing is spaced too far apart and not artistic enough, in my opinion. Usually happens when a non-Japanese speaker is writing it. 4) notice how the bohi almost runs off of the kissaki. Again, not typically Japanese. * one reason to use a fake signature of an unknown smith is because it's difficult to verify that it's fake. Signed pieces go for more money than mumei pieces, generally. * I'm not sure the alterations have anything to do with the deception. Most likely someone was messing around with it to make it fit into whatever mounts they had; whether or not it was Japanese. * making fake patina is super simple these days. I make wood art that incorporates multi-colored patinas using chemicals on silver and gold-tone gilding like barium sulfide, pot ash, and a few others. Even vinegar and salt with a little sunshine can patina copper in a few minutes, nevermind the comercial products available. Note sure exactly what the sword is without hamon details. But the preponderance of the evidence suggests either not Japanese or used to be Japanese until someone destroyed it. John C.

Craig: Not to beat a dead horse, however another consideration with polishing a Japanese sword isn't just bringing out the hamon, its shape. Incorrect polishing changes the shape of the blade, which is how it is sharpened. Notice there is no secondary bevel on the edge like a western blade. It takes years of practice and training to learn that skill. And unfortunately, changing the shape too much can permanently ruin the blade. Just my two cents. John C.

Now that I know what a hanaire is, spotted this kozuka on ebay. John C.

Another pair of gold-plated cufflinks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/205728882692? John C.

The lack of patina around the middle was the first thing I noticed. Good, honest wear and handling. John C.

Yeah. The three I've seen so far all looked like that. I think they're supposed to be roots or branches, all terminating at one of the holes. John C.

Steve: Saw those on ebay as well. The hamon looks a bit like the Yokoyama school choji pattern. But like Brian said, the nakago is scary. Not sure what someone did to it. John C. BTW, while folks on Ebay still use the term NLF, we prefer not to as these swords were Army swords and not particular to any one group or unit.

Well...I pulled the trigger on the hanaire netsuke. Small deer antler. The only thing is, with so many holes and open bottom, I'm not sure which ones would be used as himotoshi. Any guesses? John C.

Rob: The term stands for Post Exchange. Army posts all have a store, which varies in size depending on the size of the post (or fort if it's larger; depot if it's smaller), that sells everything from basic necessitites in smaller posts up to full-on big box stores in some of the larger forts. John C.

There is one more indicator, however I don't think we have been tracking it per se. The tsuba on the souvenir is a different size than the army plain black tsuba. And I also wonder for which branch would this have been made if it were a late war issue? Just a universal sword for all branches? It just seems to me these are all souvenir - some with left over blades and one piece fuchi. John C.

The face looks like that of Daikokuten (大黒天), one of the seven lucky gods. My guess, depending on material, would be a netsuke-like object sold as a souvenir. John C.

Dan: I'm doing basically the same thing with mine. I too have several books published (I use Ingramspark). My method for the book covers, and for one of the interior files that is picture heavy, is done using Adobe Indesign. It has a HUGE learning curve but is by far the easiest way to layout the book. You can "rent" the software for 35 dollars / month and cancel after that. I watched hours of YT videos on it, got a free 7 day trial to practice, then rented it for a month and was able to create, layout, and publish all of my covers at one time. I also bought some "green screen" from Amazon to photograph the items, though you would have to use a photo editing program to get rid of the background before pasting it into the layout. Looks fairly professional. John C.

As noted by Chris, there are different sizes depending on which side you are outfitting (tang side or blade side of the tsuba). Here is a good illustration of how they fit together. John C.

Dan: I too am cataloging my meager collections (yatate, ojime, and maekanagu) - and for the same reasons, I suppose. I also have what some would consider a low-end collection. But I'm doing the whole thing with photos, write-ups, history, etc. I figure there must be some information about the every day person who used this stuff and not just museum quality pieces found in most books. The premise is that any budget can have fun collecting these items if we make it interesting enough. John C.

So far, I've had no problems with non-sword items (books, kanna blades, netsuke, yatate) shipped from Japan since tariffs began. The dealers have a shipping choice that includes tariffs, which is what I usually choose - though it is more expensive, it hasn't gotten hung up anywhere. John C.

With those two attachment points, it looks a bit like a maekanagu (clasp for a tabako-ire). John C.

Steve: I believe the first name is Yamata (Yamada). Try getting the last name in this orientation. John C.

Randy: To answer your question, yes. There are many companies currently (Hanwei for example) that make forged blades with actual hamon. It would be easy for someone to put one of these blades into gunto mounts. And these are legit reproduction companies. There are also companies making purposeful fakes. See some of the really good type 95 fakes in the Type 95 fake thread in Related Subjects. https://www.by-the-sword.com/p-4698-hanwei-shinto-katana-by-paul-chen.aspx? John C.

Tyler: I believe both of these questions were answered in your other post. Moriyama-san translated the smith as Kanetsugu and Bruce-san mentioned the large seki stamp indicates it is NOT traditionally made. This means the sword is definitely WW2 and that it is probably made using "puddled steel" with power equipment, and oil quenched, though it may be partially hand forged. John C.

Randy: The 09 stamp is more likely to be a manufacturing number from the Chinese factory or simply there to deceive. Family swords brought to WW2 were not generally serialized. John C.

Ouch. Through the fingers, tsuka, then into the nakago. Unless that is some sort of test cut for a different blade. John C.

The details/quality of this silver tusba don't seem to warrant the use of precious metals to me. I'm probably missing something. Opinions? https://www.ebay.com/itm/126480417057? John C.

Yves: Bottom line is a very nice legit helmet. As I haven't started collecting katchu yet, I have a question. Is there any relationship between the family mon and Nobuie? I was thinking that a samurai would "buy locally" and was wondering if the location of the clan somehow relates to the area where Nobuie worked. John C.

Agreed. I think someone had it out of the scabbard when they tripped and fell against a grinder - multiple times. John C.

Canvas cover with ink stamp on a type 94/98. Pink curling ribbon probably not original. https://www.ebay.com/itm/187827346096? John C.