John C
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Everything posted by John C
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And for some reason, the tsuba on these fakes do not have the flat mimi around the middle; they are peaked. You would think that would be easy to do. John C.
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It shouldn't take that much. I would suggest every 4 to 6 months, depending on humidity. Where I live it's once a year. I have a dresser I use as a sword tansu and keep reusable dessicant packs in the drawer. John C.
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From google. Might get you started at least: Shinkugata? ? Heavy openwork Early Edo Period Showa 53 (1977) John C.
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Never thought of it like that, Piers. It's kind of like owning a pure bred puppy. It needs to be comfortable and clean; not too hot and not too cold; papered and even taken to shows, if the pedigree is good enough; missed when it eventually passes on, though replaced with a new loved puppy - and it starts all over. John C.
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Accessories for the Tanegashima
John C replied to Bugyotsuji's topic in Tanegashima / Teppo / Hinawajū
Saw this on auction listed as "hinawa gunball case." Looks a lot like a tabako-ire pouch to me. What features differentiates a gunball pouch from a tabako-ire pouch? https://www.ebay.com/itm/168018118739? John C. -
Jimmy: An additional consideration is that wakizashi do not generally carry the same value as a katana or even a tanto, in some cases. Primarily because many more people were allowed to carry wakizashi than were allowed to carry katana at various periods. John C.
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I found an obi-hasami online that had small eyelets installed in the himotoshi. It got me thinking that if the sagemono were worn under the haori jacket, it wouldn't swing much and with the sagemono hanging free in the front, it would be more accessible. John C.
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The 1943 hat was also made in a different uniform factory. So maybe just different supplier? BTW, the 1943 hat is size small (ko). John C.
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hmm...maru-hanabishi with triangles. Could have been carved to match someone's kimono pattern. John C.
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I got curious when trying to figure out what the design on my latest one was. Just this design on top and plain everywhere else. Mumei. I know they aren't a particularly old design. John C.
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Chatgpt was incorrect when it identified the sword as WW2. John C.
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I think it's a 16, Ed. John C.
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Left side is inspection mark for Army uniform depot in Osaka, middle is the date Showa 16 (1941), the right is size medium. I recommend saving a screen shot of these for future translation as they are all very similar. John C.
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I have two questions about obi-hasami netsuke. Firstly, I was wondering how these were actually worn. I assume the himo would go through the two holes often found at the top, however did the sagemono just hang from these holes? It seems like it would swing too much. Were the hooked ends worn toward the body or away from the body? Secondly, many I have seen are made from bone. Is there some significance to using bone or was it just a tough material? John C.
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Also, I think the province is Kozuke (Joshu). John C.
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Steve: The date is Ansei 2 (1855) so probably traditionally made. John C.
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Gunpowder flasks/primer flasks antique or vintage?
John C replied to arilar's topic in Tanegashima / Teppo / Hinawajū
One man's trash is another man's treasure. I would be over the moon if I found something like that. That kind of stuff just isn't floating around in my neck of the woods. John C. -
Bruce: Just a general note about the attribution of population growth and/or decline. So many factors usually contribute to such events that it is alway difficult to list just a few. For example, the Tenmei famine of the 1780s and the Tenpo famine of the 1830s probably accounted for quite a bit of decline in the overall health and height of the population. Not discounting their research (since I haven't read it), just noting that other contributing factors may also be notable. John C.
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Will: In addition to the translation, the Sho stamp indicates it is a non-traditionally made sword and was made during WW2. The mounts are referred to as type 98 and would have had a tassel originally (either blue and brown company grade or red and brown field grade). John C.
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Seeking ID and additional info help for Tachi sword
John C replied to Corsairisen's topic in Nihonto
Randy: I'll try to answer some of your questions. But first, take a look at the two pics. Notice a few things: 1) the nakago is the wrong shape (of course, this could have happened with the violent alteration) 2) the offset line between the munemachi and hamachi is classic Chinese. Could this have been done as a result of the alteration? Sure, however a Japanese craftsman would not do it this way. 3) the writing is spaced too far apart and not artistic enough, in my opinion. Usually happens when a non-Japanese speaker is writing it. 4) notice how the bohi almost runs off of the kissaki. Again, not typically Japanese. * one reason to use a fake signature of an unknown smith is because it's difficult to verify that it's fake. Signed pieces go for more money than mumei pieces, generally. * I'm not sure the alterations have anything to do with the deception. Most likely someone was messing around with it to make it fit into whatever mounts they had; whether or not it was Japanese. * making fake patina is super simple these days. I make wood art that incorporates multi-colored patinas using chemicals on silver and gold-tone gilding like barium sulfide, pot ash, and a few others. Even vinegar and salt with a little sunshine can patina copper in a few minutes, nevermind the comercial products available. Note sure exactly what the sword is without hamon details. But the preponderance of the evidence suggests either not Japanese or used to be Japanese until someone destroyed it. John C. -
Craig: Not to beat a dead horse, however another consideration with polishing a Japanese sword isn't just bringing out the hamon, its shape. Incorrect polishing changes the shape of the blade, which is how it is sharpened. Notice there is no secondary bevel on the edge like a western blade. It takes years of practice and training to learn that skill. And unfortunately, changing the shape too much can permanently ruin the blade. Just my two cents. John C.
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The lack of patina around the middle was the first thing I noticed. Good, honest wear and handling. John C.
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Yeah. The three I've seen so far all looked like that. I think they're supposed to be roots or branches, all terminating at one of the holes. John C.
