Scogg

Thank you Ray! You’re the best! -Sam

Thank you Ray! You’re a huge help. He took some more photos, but not sure if they are any more clear. He’s very excited to have got it! Much appreciated, -Sam

A friend recently got this wakizashi in a bulk purchase, and I helped walk him through getting the tsuka off. He sent me these photos and would love to learn more about it. Cheers, -Sam

Thank you Conway! Would you say that mine is field grade? Because it’s not tortoise shell, but a dark wood like material instead? After seeing your Horster stamp, I took another close look, and can confirm it’s either not there or rubbed off completely on mine. Do I see a double suya stamp on yours, too? Thanks for all your help! I think it’s a cool sword. -Sam

Good question Bruce, I am not sure! I’m not super familiar with these and am having a fun time thumbing through my books. The red circled area looks a little different to me. The cherry blossoms are 10 pedal.

As promised, here is the straight blade parade saber I had my eyes on. I purchased it today for $200 USD. Unfortunately there are no German markings on it that I can find. Although, the double suya stamp is cool! @Conway S @Bruce Pennington Some observations: Straight blade, plated. No edge. Double fuller. ”Wood” grip material? Ornate back of handle. Double suya stamp. Single scabbard hanger. Approximately 33 inches long from where the handle starts 32.2 inches long from where “edge” starts. I like it! I think it’s neat. I plan to hold onto it as an example in my collection of a cool and unusual parade saber. The magazines in the photo I also got today. -Sam

I think that price is reasonable and fair. Best of luck with your sale. Im not sure about forum reputation and sales, and there’s also the part that this is a machine made blade rather than a Nihonto. @Brian , our moderator, can help answer those questions, if he’s willing. I will say you will likely have more views and interest amongst militaria collectors over Nihonto collectors. But there’s also a bit of overlap between the two

Not sure if I’m seeing this correctly, but it looks like the tongue moves

Of the swords that I have listed, the highest serial number sword without fuller is 216064. Wood handle, metal scabbard, stamp undicernable. I only have that specific feature (or lack of) mentioned on 5 of the swords I've cataloged. Anyone have a higher serial number example? Cheers, -Sam

Great observation about the fuller @Kiipu, I had overlooked that detail. Something to add to my archive, Thank you, -Sam

Here’s the photos from his link that have the latch area, I resized them so they’d fit here for posterity. I included another where you can see how the saya fits too I agree with Rob, that an auction is probably your best bet.

Hi Dev, welcome. Sorry to hear the sword holds no interest for you. I've seen these wood hilt 95's go anywhere from several hundred dollars up to around $1500. They aren't worth a ton. I believe yours is genuine, but with damage and mismatched parts. That scabbard is for an entirely different type of WW2 Japanese sword. So I'd think it would be worth the lower end of that range. I know you want to sell it, but considering it's not worth a whole lot and it has some family history for you; It might be worth holding onto until a family member does show interest. Maybe the next generation? Just an idea. Best of luck, -Sam

Hi Dee, It’s a nice looking sword, and that photography captures a lot. I’m looking forward to hearing your observations when you get the blade in your possession and can view it yourself. To answer the original question, it really depends on a couple factors for me: Would I ever buy something “top tier” for my collection, with a high price tag, that I know is Gimei? No, I wouldn’t. I would be patient for the right item that speaks to me, and checks ALL my boxes. Would I buy a sword on the lower end of my collecting budget, that’s gimei, to enjoy for a while and maybe sell down the road at a potential loss? Sure! If I like everything else about the blade enough. Just my two cents, -Sam

Not a new member... But I changed my username from GeorgeLuucas to Scogg Scogg is an abbreviation of my last name, and has also been a common nickname for me. I am sick being called George. Although I remain a big StarWars fan Cheers, -Sam

Thank you Grey and Mark, that’s great advice. You've given me a nice little snow-day project. Much appreciated. All the best, -Sam

Agreed, Alex. I see shirasaya with tape stains often. It’s unsightly, and easily avoidable IMO. Here you can see my example of teflon tape (plumbers tape). It is also unsightly, but it will keep the shirasaya together indefinitely, and when removed it won’t leave any marks. If you’re careful, you can make it look better than my example. Assuming it’s still together, and the split is minor. Cheers, -Sam

I have a wakizashi in shirasaya that's also starting to split. What I did, was wrap the area with Teflon Tape (plumbers tape). Plumbers tape has no adhesives, so I figure it won't damage the shirasaya. It sticks best to itself, so several "passes" around the area is recommended. Just a temporary fix that looks better, and is less damaging than any adhesive tapes. Could also be used to hold the shirasaya together while the rice glue dries. Best of luck! Cheers, -Sam

Yes, but beware, this is true only for USA nickels. I'm pretty familiar with scales, because I use them constantly at work. For anything "sword weight" I think any highly rated kitchen scale, drug scale, or jewelry scale will be sufficient. You will want something where the weighing surface stands higher than the plastic casing and readout area. Chandlers advice with a microfiber is good; but make sure nothing being weighed is contacting anything other than the weighing surface. May I ask, why you want to weigh your swords? Is it just an additional data point, or is there information to be gleaned from the steel's weight? Just curious, Cheers, -Sam

Adding this translation to the discussion for those who aren’t already aware. I have found that learning the Japanese translations of many of these terms can be helpful. All the best, Sam

You’re the first person who helped me when I first joined, and I still appreciate your help. Thank you for that. I still value your input! -Sam

It was my understanding that the exercise was to compare quality amongst the three available options. Although I can see how the wording didn’t make that explicitly clear. I’d love to see your interpretation on the exercise. To share three tsuba of varying quality, and see if us beginner collectors can pick out the best one. Maybe we could learn something! Sincerely, -Sam

I’d choose left, personally

No doubt about the increase in quality on that one, Colin. Very nice piece! Thank you. For the sake of comparing. I’ve taken some photos from the Nagoya workshop thread to put side by side with our little tanto tsuba. The first three are from this thread, the following are from the Nagoya workshop thread. Looking them over, I will say, I prefer the simple motif, patina, and nanako on our tanto tsuba more than the examples in the other thread. But… I absolutely see what you mean about quality, and am inclined to agree with your Nagoya workshop ID. Thanks again, Cheers, -Sam

Thanks Colin, that’s an interesting thread! And no spoiling this parade, I got mine for very cheap at a show; and the truth is always the goal. Here’s some more photos of mine incase it helps ID. Curious to see what @Spartancrest thinks! Thanks again, Cheers, -Sam

Funny coincidence, one kiri is lost on mine too! Any thoughts on the possible age, Jean?