Scogg

More of his photography can be found on his related Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/share/1DAqLdB2Cn/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I was given this tsuba over the weekend along with some loose type 95 and 98 parts. It has the Gifu in Sakura stamp on one side, and a partial seki stamp on the other

@drb 1643, amazing! Thank you so much! Now I only need the one more example to complete my photo needs. Wooden handle with bohi. If I see one for sale anywhere, I will let you know. Thank you again! You’ve been a huge help. -Sam

Only two more variations and I should have all the photos that I need. Thanks everyone! Pattern# = Handle type - Tsuba type - Latch - Bohi - Ito - Saya - Kiipu variation number. *Pattern 3 variant blade without bohi (Suya) = Aluminum handle - Top Latch - Steel Tsuba - No Bohi - Symmetrical Ito. Metal Saya. variation 6.* Pattern 5 = Wooden handle - Steel Tsuba - Side Latch - With Bohi - Metal Saya with drag - (NA名). variation 7.

I see those unsigned flags go for around $100 at the militaria shows. Sometimes more, sometimes less. You've got 5 of them there, plus, I presume, some kind of liner. In my opinion that's around $500 in flags, maybe $50 for the liner. ~$550 in materials alone. Add the "cool factor" of it being a sword bag and accessory to a gunto? I agree with Bruce, that you can probably choose your price. I would not be surprised to see something like that go for around $1000; or add a premium to the sword. IMO, As someone who really likes these kinds of accessories. -Sam

Thanks @ChrisW! I hope to attend the Chicago show either this year or next. I still need to do the Orlando show too. Trying to do all the USA based shows at least once, and then hopefully to DTI In the short term, looking forward to the Vegas show. -Sam

Each member had a table where they could display their items. Rules basically were, you have to ask to handle anything, and it's up to the sword owner to decide how that happens. Etiquette was instructed when necessary due to the wide range of experience of our members; ranging from people I consider expert, to entry level individuals with questions about their inherited blades. There was a huge variety of items, and some very high-end blades; including probably the best Aoe blade i've ever seen, and also a Tametsugu. Huge thanks to the more seasoned members and attendees for bringing such incredible swords to study - my only complaint is the lighting in the venue that I chose, and that I didn't have more time to admire those blades. I hope to smooth out those wrinkles on the next meetup, and be more prepared. I'm very excited people were able to make it, and support my efforts to get a club going out here again. Feeling very grateful, and humbled. -Sam

The first meeting was a huge success! Big thanks to everyone who made it, and brought swords to show. Hope to have our next meeting this spring/summer 2026 in Washington state

Had our PNW Token Kai this evening, and a friend of mine and club member has what I believe to be a wartime sword bag. The owner noted that it’s made of a very similar material that he’s observed on some Japanese uniforms. It definitely appears to have some age

@drb 1643 great collection! Those are great photos, thank you so much! This helps me very much and nearly completes my lists. Yes, I’d love to see your ito wrapped example too, if time permits. Thank you again! I owe you one! These will go into my document promptly. All the best, -Sam

@Nazar, I’m always amazed when people remember what books I’ve got in my reference library Yes, I’ve got what you’re looking for. I only found Kiyonobu in one of the three, and it’s the same one from that old thread. I’ll include all the pages relevant to Kiyonobu below. Something that immediately grabs my attention, is the abrupt change in nakago-jiri on the arsenal setting example. I hope this helps, Best regards, -Sam

Both sides were definitely ground down, for reasons I fail to imagine. Bruce's theory makes as much sense as any, but then, why stop half-way through the conversion? Have you seen any others with this "machi-okuri situation" @John C?

Spotted on eBay https://ebay.us/m/HpCkpX

I saw him at the SF show, and he explained that he does not come to the forums much anymore. Although, he had heard through the grapevine that I admired one of his swords; and let me study it under some lighting. He’s a real great guy. So if you’re lucky, in time, he may hear of this thread and reach out to you. Best of luck, -Sam

This is terrible news… I had recently gotten to know Richard via email correspondence, talked about photography, and hoped to put face to name someday as we live really close by. He had said he was recovering from a procedure. His photos of tosogu are really stunning. Condolences to his friends and family. https://www.rkgphotos.com/articles/ktk_photo_document_2019.pdf https://m.youtube.com/@rkgatteleport/videos

You can probably imagine how difficult it would be to draw a sword straight off your back over your head/shoulder. Try the motion now: reach behind your head as if grasping a tsuka, then raise your arm as though you’re pulling a blade free. You’ll notice your arm doesn’t travel very far. With anything longer than a short blade, a significant portion of the sword would still be stuck in the saya on your back. The longer the sword, the longer your arms would need to be to clear the entire blade from the scabbard. Here's an example. You can see that even video game animators struggle with the physics of how this might work: (Note: this is just a silly video game, and is simply demonstrating how this would look and how challenging/awkward the action would be. Sorry about the song, I recommend muting it... not my video .)

Sounds awesome, David! If you are able to upload it to your website, I would love to share it with the PNW Token Kai members. Best of luck, -Sam

That really depends on the boshi. The kissaki can certainly be repaired, but it’s unclear whether it can be repaired without compromising the boshi. If the boshi is absent, it's considered a fatal flaw. Can we maybe see some close-ups of the nakago? -Sam

Both links are currently working for me on an apple computer via google chrome Have not had issues lately, but when I do, they typically resolve within an hour or two. -Sam

You are not alone! I have reason to suspect that gold was "trendy" after the war. My grandfather applied gold spray-paint to the saya of my Edo period katana in the late 1950s or early 60s. He had acquired the sword from a World War Two veteran who had taken it home after the war. I cannot say if gold paint is wartime or not, some examples above seem more period than others... I can say that my own katana received its gold paint after the war, because my grandfather told me he painted it. Thank goodness the paint did not stick to the lacquer very well; and has since (mostly) flaked away. I'll see if I can get a photo of the paint remnants when I get home from work today. -Sam Edit: adding photos. I know it’s not a gunto, but I felt it’s relevant considering it’s a bring back and was painted shortly thereafter

I have adjusted my pattern type list reflect @Kiipu's more detailed variation list found at the link below. I'd love some feedback if time allows, as I have changed some wording so it fits better with both the variation list and pattern list. https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/54210-type-95-military-sword-variations/#comment-567821 I still need photos of the patterns that are not crossed through: - Pattern 1 copper handle (but Bruce is working on this one for me) - Pattern 3 aluminum handle, suya, without bohi - Pattern 5 wooden handle with bohi - Pattern 5 wooden handle without bohi - Pattern 6 wooden handle with wooden saya Thanks again everyone, -Sam Pattern# = Handle type - Tsuba type - Latch - Bohi - Ito - Saya - Kiipu variation number. - Copper Tsuka Initial Pattern: Pattern 1 = Copper handle - 11mm Brass tsuba - Top Latch - With Bohi - Asymmetrical ito - Metal saya with brass cap. Variant 1. - Aluminum Tsuka Patterns: *Transitional Pattern 2, (Suya) = Aluminum handle - 9mm Brass tsuba - Top Latch - With Bohi - Asymmetrical punctured ito.- metal saya - ( TO 東 ). v2. * *Transitional Pattern 2 (Gifu) = Aluminum handle - 9mm Brass tsuba - Top Latch - With Bohi - Asymmetrical ito adjusted around mekugi. Metal saya - ( NA 名 ). v2. * Pattern 2 = Aluminium handle - 9mm Brass tsuba - Top Latch - With Bohi -Symmetrical ito. Metal saya. v3. Pattern 3 = Aluminium handle - Steel tsuba - Top Latch - With bohi - Symmetrical ito. Metal Saya. v4. *Pattern 3 variant blade (Suya) = Aluminum handle - Top Latch - Steel Tsuba - No Bohi - Symmetrical Ito. Metal Saya. v6.* *Pattern 3 modified tsuba = Aluminum handle - Steel Tsuba - Top latch with side latch cutout - With Bohi - Symmetrical ito. Metal Saya. v4.* Pattern 4 = Aluminium handle - Steel tsuba - Side latch - With Bohi - Symmetrical ito - Metal Saya. ( NA 名 ). v5 . - Wooden Tsuka Patterns: Pattern 5 = Wooden handle - Steel Tsuba - Side Latch - With Bohi - Metal Saya with drag - (NA名). v7. *Pattern 5 variant blade = Wooden handle - Steel Tsuba - Side Latch - No Bohi - Metal Saya with drag - (NA名). v8.* Pattern 6 = Wooden handle - Steel Tsuba - Side Latch - No Bohi - Wooden Saya with chape - (Jinsen / HE ヘ). v9.

Additionally, if there is any information about Togishi from the 50s, I would be very curious to know. Looking for: 君山研廣 Kimiyama Kenhiro

@Conway S Iijima stopped producing in March 1945, when American B29s bombed it out of commission. Their last batch switched to steel tsuba around 160075. My latest observed iijima brass tsuba is in the 159k range on my notes. Big thanks to Kiipu, Bruce, and Stegel for helping so much. So many little nuances with the type 95, it can be hard to digest. But it’s very interesting stuff All the best, -Sam

That stands to reason. Or perhaps 7 preceded 6. While 6 and 8 were congruent for some amount of time

@Kiipu, I've digested your notes, and edited my list to more closely reflect yours. In addition, I adopted the wording "asymmetrical/symmetrical" and removed the "2a, 2b, 3a" because I had not realized those terms had been coined in the past for other features (Thank you @Bruce Pennington). I think the "Transition" or maybe "interim" identifier is less intrusive to preexisting pattern list. Let me know your thoughts. -Sam -Copper Tsuka Initial Pattern; plug on end of saya: Pattern 1 = Copper handle - 11mm Brass tsuba - Asymmetrical ito - Cap but no drag on saya. -Aluminum Tsuka Patterns; drag on end of saya: * Transition Pattern 2 (Suya) = Aluminum handle - 9mm Brass tsuba - Asymmetrical ito - punctured ito. ( TO 東 ).* *Transition Pattern 2 (Gifu) = Aluminum handle - 9mm Brass tsuba - Asymmetrical ito - adjusted ito around mekugi. ( NA 名 ).* Pattern 2 = Aluminium handle - 9mm Brass tsuba - Symmetrical ito. Pattern 3 = Aluminium handle - Steel tsuba - With/Without(Kokura) bohi - Symmetrical ito. *Transition pattern 3 (tsuba) = Aluminum handle - Top latch steel tsuba but with side latch cutout - Symmetrical ito.* Pattern 4 = Aluminium handle - Steel tsuba - Side latch - Symmetrical ito - ( NA 名 ) . -Wooden Tsuka Patterns: Pattern 5 = Wooden handle - Steel Tsuba - Side Latch - With/Without Bohi - Metal Saya with drag - (NA名). Pattern 6 = Wooden handle - Steel Tsuba - Side Latch - Without Bohi - Wooden Saya with chape - ( HE ヘ , Jinsen). *Author noted transitional patterns with asterisk*