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Scogg

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Everything posted by Scogg

  1. Scogg
    Hi Dev, welcome. Sorry to hear the sword holds no interest for you. I've seen these wood hilt 95's go anywhere from several hundred dollars up to around $1500. They aren't worth a ton. I believe yours is genuine, but with damage and mismatched parts. That scabbard is for an entirely different type of WW2 Japanese sword. So I'd think it would be worth the lower end of that range. I know you want to sell it, but considering it's not worth a whole lot and it has some family history for you; It might be worth holding onto until a family member does show interest. Maybe the next generation? Just an idea. Best of luck, -Sam
  2. Scogg
    Hi Dee, It’s a nice looking sword, and that photography captures a lot. I’m looking forward to hearing your observations when you get the blade in your possession and can view it yourself. To answer the original question, it really depends on a couple factors for me: Would I ever buy something “top tier” for my collection, with a high price tag, that I know is Gimei? No, I wouldn’t. I would be patient for the right item that speaks to me, and checks ALL my boxes. Would I buy a sword on the lower end of my collecting budget, that’s gimei, to enjoy for a while and maybe sell down the road at a potential loss? Sure! If I like everything else about the blade enough. Just my two cents, -Sam
  3. Scogg
    Not a new member... But I changed my username from GeorgeLuucas to Scogg Scogg is an abbreviation of my last name, and has also been a common nickname for me. I am sick being called George. Although I remain a big StarWars fan Cheers, -Sam
  4. Scogg
    Thank you Grey and Mark, that’s great advice. You've given me a nice little snow-day project. Much appreciated. All the best, -Sam
  5. Scogg
    Agreed, Alex. I see shirasaya with tape stains often. It’s unsightly, and easily avoidable IMO. Here you can see my example of teflon tape (plumbers tape). It is also unsightly, but it will keep the shirasaya together indefinitely, and when removed it won’t leave any marks. If you’re careful, you can make it look better than my example. Assuming it’s still together, and the split is minor. Cheers, -Sam
  6. Scogg
    I have a wakizashi in shirasaya that's also starting to split. What I did, was wrap the area with Teflon Tape (plumbers tape). Plumbers tape has no adhesives, so I figure it won't damage the shirasaya. It sticks best to itself, so several "passes" around the area is recommended. Just a temporary fix that looks better, and is less damaging than any adhesive tapes. Could also be used to hold the shirasaya together while the rice glue dries. Best of luck! Cheers, -Sam
  7. Scogg
    Yes, but beware, this is true only for USA nickels. I'm pretty familiar with scales, because I use them constantly at work. For anything "sword weight" I think any highly rated kitchen scale, drug scale, or jewelry scale will be sufficient. You will want something where the weighing surface stands higher than the plastic casing and readout area. Chandlers advice with a microfiber is good; but make sure nothing being weighed is contacting anything other than the weighing surface. May I ask, why you want to weigh your swords? Is it just an additional data point, or is there information to be gleaned from the steel's weight? Just curious, Cheers, -Sam
  8. Scogg
    Adding this translation to the discussion for those who aren’t already aware. I have found that learning the Japanese translations of many of these terms can be helpful. All the best, Sam
  9. Scogg
    You’re the first person who helped me when I first joined, and I still appreciate your help. Thank you for that. I still value your input! -Sam
  10. Scogg
    It was my understanding that the exercise was to compare quality amongst the three available options. Although I can see how the wording didn’t make that explicitly clear. I’d love to see your interpretation on the exercise. To share three tsuba of varying quality, and see if us beginner collectors can pick out the best one. Maybe we could learn something! Sincerely, -Sam
  11. Scogg
    I’d choose left, personally
  12. Scogg
    No doubt about the increase in quality on that one, Colin. Very nice piece! Thank you. For the sake of comparing. I’ve taken some photos from the Nagoya workshop thread to put side by side with our little tanto tsuba. The first three are from this thread, the following are from the Nagoya workshop thread. Looking them over, I will say, I prefer the simple motif, patina, and nanako on our tanto tsuba more than the examples in the other thread. But… I absolutely see what you mean about quality, and am inclined to agree with your Nagoya workshop ID. Thanks again, Cheers, -Sam
  13. Scogg
    Thanks Colin, that’s an interesting thread! And no spoiling this parade, I got mine for very cheap at a show; and the truth is always the goal. Here’s some more photos of mine incase it helps ID. Curious to see what @Spartancrest thinks! Thanks again, Cheers, -Sam
  14. Scogg
    Funny coincidence, one kiri is lost on mine too! Any thoughts on the possible age, Jean?
  15. Scogg
    Good question Edward, I suspect mine to be late edo period. Although, I'm no expert and not really sure... Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in, and help us put a date range both of our Tsuba Cheers, -Sam
  16. Scogg
    Hi Edward, welcome to the forum! What you have there is a tsuba for a Japanese Tanto. It appears to be made out of Shakudo (this is an alloy of mostly copper with a little gold). The dimpling on the Shakudo is called NANAKO. The flower is referred to as a kirimon or Kiri. It's the flower of a paulownia tree (empress tree). I have a very similar tanto tsuba in my collection (see below), but yours looks a little nicer than mine. Cheers, and welcome! -Sam
  17. Scogg
    Thanks @nulldevice! Ford Hallam has some really incredible youtube videos. I also don't know much about tosogu, but watching his youtube channel is always informative. I should watch it more. He has a way of speaking while he works that's soothing and I always learn a lot. I recommend everyone check out his channel who's interested in fittings. May he rest in peace... Cheers, -Sam
  18. Scogg
    I googled this for you Dan
  19. Scogg
    Is engraving the mold and stamping a plate meant to mimic nanako? Or is it a different texture, and with a different name entirely? Not doubting, just trying to understand. -Sam
  20. Scogg
    I agree about the kissaki, and I'm inclined to believe it's a fake... Although, fakes this good are concerning! Something to consider about 95 blade geometry is that there are reports that some Type32 blades were converted for 95 use. Allegedly they were reshaped and reformed to closer mimic the 95 specs. I have personally never seen an example of this - and I don't think this sword is one. But my point is: judging on blade geometry alone can be tricky. This "brass tsuka" sword is one of those potential fakes that I'd really like to see in-hand. Cheers, -Sam
  21. Scogg
    Thanks Brian. Here's some more photos for those who cannot open the link Cheers, -Sam
  22. Scogg
    I'm a little confused. This does not appear to be a nihonto. Looks like a modern made sword with some kind of wire brush or etched hamon. I'm not convinced its Japanese at all... Am I missing something? -Sam
  23. Scogg
    Hi John, I can't speak to the layering, construction, or mei. But, in my opinion, this is a good example of what not to look for in NANAKO. And it was the first thing I noticed. Quality nanako will look almost impossibly precise, and be evenly applied. Whereas the tsuba in your photo looks like the nanako dots are randomly scattered without any pattern. Image of shakudo nanako fuchi from my collection. All the best, -Sam
  24. Scogg
    All things considered, you've got the most trusted experts available giving their attributions (new and old!); and any perceived "gray" area opens the door for further study on your end. Which I, personally, would consider an exciting and enjoyable exercise to learn from; even if you conclude "the experts got it". Stunning piece!
  25. Scogg
    Thanks Dee, and Bruce! This one will have an interesting "notes" section in my list . Cheers, -Sam
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